First tank help.

[Scuba-74]

So it’s common practice to open up a used tank that has some fill and is within both inspection dates?

Not that I'm aware of. Don't expect to see a whole lot when you remove the valve, either. It's not that easy. Unless your dive shop offers you to do it for free, I would say don't do it yourself. Besides, if it's within current viz (which is done every year) and still has some air - chances that it has any rust in it are slim to none.

 

[Diver below 83]

Run, don't walk, down to the classified section. There are 4 HP100s up for sale in Tampa right now.

Was already in that thread lol

 

[Efka76]

I am based in UK, so prices, currency, and measurement units are different, however, main principles for buying used tank should be the same. Few months ago I was in your shoes and was looking for used first tank. In UK divers usually dive with steel tanks. So, my choice was quite obvious - I wanted steel tank, made by Faber. Next thing was to decide on size of the tank. I am pretty big guy who uses more air comparing to women and smaller buddies/ Also, additional weight is not an issue to me. So, here choice was pretty obvious as well - I needed 15L tank.

In UK (in US situation could be different) if you send tank by post, you have to send it empty. Also, most sellers did not want to send it by post and required physically to come to their place. Also, more than 90% of sold tanks were out of test. I found a nice looking (from pictures) tank, which looked like new and bought it for GBP 80. Postage cost was GBP 15. Then did hydro testing, which cost me GBP 45. During hydro testing it was determined that my tank looked like a new from inside as well, however, there was a problem with valve, which had to be restored (additional GBP 30). In total, my new used tank cost was GBP 170. Please bear in mind that if tank fails testing it will be destroyed and you will not get your money back from shop. There is a question whether seller will want to return your money....

So, taking into account all these factors I bought my second tank new from dive shop and paid GBP 210. Price difference was really not so material in order to spend time, efforts and take additional risks.

 

[Diver below 83]

I am based in UK, so prices, currency, and measurement units are different, however, main principles for buying used tank should be the same. Few months ago I was in your shoes and was looking for used first tank. In UK divers usually dive with steel tanks. So, my choice was quite obvious - I wanted steel tank, made by Faber. Next thing was to decide on size of the tank. I am pretty big guy who uses more air comparing to women and smaller buddies/ Also, additional weight is not an issue to me. So, here choice was pretty obvious as well - I needed 15L tank.

In UK (in US situation could be different) if you send tank by post, you have to send it empty. Also, most sellers did not want to send it by post and required physically to come to their place. Also, more than 90% of sold tanks were out of test. I found a nice looking (from pictures) tank, which looked like new and bought it for GBP 80. Postage cost was GBP 15. Then did hydro testing, which cost me GBP 45. During hydro testing it was determined that my tank looked like a new from inside as well, however, there was a problem with valve, which had to be restored (additional GBP 30). In total, my new used tank cost was GBP 170. Please bear in mind that if tank fails testing it will be destroyed and you will not get your money back from shop. There is a question whether seller will want to return your money....

So, taking into account all these factors I bought my second tank new from dive shop and paid GBP 210. Price difference was really not so material in order to spend time, efforts and take additional risks.

thankfully I live in south Florida. Second hand tanks are literally everywhere so I shouldn’t have to deal with shipping.

 

[runsongas]

Was already in that thread lol

at that price though, just get new faber HDG tanks from piranha or DGX

 

[tmassey]

I've sold probably 6-8 steel tanks, as well as buying twice that many. I've never personally opened a tank before buying, and most of the time they're way out of hydro when I buy them. I am certified to VIP tanks, and I have a light and probe (and a gauge, and a 2x miror, and...). But I've never done it. And I've never gotten a bad tank. YMMV, of course, but I've found that if the outside is in obviously good shape I haven't had a problem with the inside.

The tanks I'm buying, though, are in Michigan. They've only seen freshwater and many of them are obviously infrequently used. Maybe you'd have to worry about a tank that was filled at a place with poor filtration, but generally the quality of gas we get here is very good. And so many of these tanks have literally been untouched in someone's basement for 10+ years; you know, slightly after the last hydro was performed!

I've had people whine and complain about the tanks I've sold being out of hydro. I've told them that I'd happily add $40 to the price to hydro and viz the tanks (the going rate here), but that they'd have to pay for the hydro up front and I'd be happy to make sure they got perfectly new-hydroed tanks. No one's ever done that. And no one's ever asked to look inside, either. If someone insisted on cracking open a tank, I would be *happy* to, under one condition: they pay for the tank. If the tank fails viz standards, I will refund their money. In other words, I'm not screwing around with it unless it's a done deal, and you want to be safe.

Now that I write this, maybe I'll offer a peek in the tank right at the beginning, to put people at ease. Of course, there's usually *gas* in the tank... And I hate cracking steels, because of things like humidity and flash rust. Honestly, if you're buying used steel SCUBA tanks in Michigan, you already know what you're doing, and you're probably just trying to use the hydro/viz thing to beat me down on price...

 

[runsongas]

@tmassey but how much are you paying for those out of hydro tanks? if they are cheap, it is worth a pig and a poke even if they need to be shot blasted and cleaned before hydro. the possible cost of having to rehab them is accounted for in the pricing. at 200 or 250 a tank though, they would have to be clean and ready to go to make sense over just buying a new tank.

 

[tmassey]

@tmassey but how much are you paying for those out of hydro tanks?

It varies, of course. I've paid $100 for an HP100; I've paid $500 for a set of HP130 doubles. All out of hydro.

By the way, I've never had to have a tank shot-blasted. Ever. Nor have I ever had to have one tumbled *before* hydro. I had to have one tumbled once, but that was *because* of the hydro, and it was included with the hydro.

And yes, sometimes it's worth it to simply buy new. I would never buy HP100's or LP95's new: I can get them used for a reasonable price with little effort. (And, besides, I dislike LP95's.) But I just this year bought a brand new sets of doubles of each of LP85 and HP120's (now that Faber makes HDG!) because even if I could find them used, I would have paid 2/3 the price of new *out* of hydro. So I ponied up.

As a rule, I won't pay more than $200 for a steel single, and I won't sell one for less than that. Both out of hydro. It just takes a bit of patience -- both ways. And usually, I end up near the meeting point for both, so I'm basically breaking even as I move tanks around. Which is what I'm basically aiming for.

And a hydro is $40 (at retail: I pay less, but have to work harder to get it), so it's $8 a year. Less than a Nitrox fill. I consider it a cost of diving, just like a fill. So it doesn't really factor into my budgeting. (People selling tanks get so excited: NEW HYDRO! Really couldn't care less: you're saving me $8 a year max...)

 

[Diver below 83]

Th

I've sold probably 6-8 steel tanks, as well as buying twice that many. I've never personally opened a tank before buying, and most of the time they're way out of hydro when I buy them. I am certified to VIP tanks, and I have a light and probe (and a gauge, and a 2x miror, and...). But I've never done it. And I've never gotten a bad tank. YMMV, of course, but I've found that if the outside is in obviously good shape I haven't had a problem with the inside.

The tanks I'm buying, though, are in Michigan. They've only seen freshwater and many of them are obviously infrequently used. Maybe you'd have to worry about a tank that was filled at a place with poor filtration, but generally the quality of gas we get here is very good. And so many of these tanks have literally been untouched in someone's basement for 10+ years; you know, slightly after the last hydro was done!

I've had people whine and complain about the tanks I've sold being out of hydro. I've told them that I'd happily add $40 to the price to hydro and viz the tanks (the going rate here), but that they'd have to pay for the hydro up front and I'd be happy to make sure they got perfectly new-hydroed tanks. No one's ever done that. And no one's ever asked to look inside, either. If someone insisted on cracking open a tank, I would be *happy* to, under one condition: they pay for the tank. If the tank fails viz standards, I will refund their money. In other words, I'm not screwing around with it unless it's a done deal, and you want to be safe.

Now that I write this, maybe I'll offer a peek in the tank right at the beginning, to put people at ease. Of course, there's usually *gas* in the tank... And I hate cracking steels, because of things like humidity and flash rust. Honestly, if you're buying used steel SCUBA tanks in Michigan, you already know what you're doing, and you're probably just trying to use the hydro/viz thing to beat me down on price...

thats the thing I’ve noticed down here in south Florida. The exterior of tanks can vary widely. I’m people are using tanks more frequently down here than up north.

 

[Diver below 83]

Are there any specific hp100’s that I should stay away from like the plague? I know older alum 80’s had issues at one point.