Attention MK-15 aficionados

[tridacna]

Fuggedaboutit. My compulsions seem to be in temporary remission.

Nice try, though. Bet you have the service kits too...

As a matter of fact...

I’m doing my D420, D300, D350, D400 comparison dive this week. All hanging on a Mk10plus. @rsingler take note.

 

[lowviz]

Crack dealers have no shame...

 

[tridacna]

SP is the meth of regulator collectors. That’s the primary reason why I got a D420. Had to complete the set.

 

[Couv]

Had to complete the set.

Sounds like you could use a few more G250ies and a couple of real MK10s

 

[tridacna]

Sounds like you could use a few more G250ies and a couple of real MK10s

Oh puhleez. I’ll post pics. I have at least four 250s and two mk10s. I do need a Mk1.

 

[Couv]

I have at least four 250s and two mk10s. I do need a Mk1.

OK so you are a little short on G250ies and MK10s PM me when you're ready for some more. I don't have any MK1s, but I do have a couple of MK9s that IMHO are a bit more useful.

 

[tridacna]

OK so you are a little short on G250ies and MK10s PM me when you're ready for some more. I don't have any MK1s, but I do have a couple of MK9s that IMHO are a bit more useful.

MK9 is just a MK10 with a fixed (non-swivel) cap, right? Good for routing your second out the bottom, I suppose. Did the original D300 come with the MK9?

 

[Couv]

MK9 is just a MK10 with a fixed (non-swivel) cap, right?

Yes.

Good for routing your second out the bottom, I suppose.

The routing is not better than a MK10-the only real advantage is the supposed lack of failure points at the swivel o-ring, and of course the swivel retainer itself. Much like the MK1 & MK8 when compared to a MK5.

Did the original D300 come with the MK9?

I don't know-but if memory serves correctly, the MK9 predates the D series by quite a few years. The MK9 probably came with a 108 and/or 109/BA

 

[JamesBon92007]

Hi @Angelo Farina If you don't have a new seat do not remove it. It cannot be flipped over. If you're definitely going to replace the seat you can screw a wood screw or cup hook into the seat and pull it out. OR try this method:

One method I've found that works rather well is to cover your tank valve with one of those plastic/rubber valve protector caps they sell at LDS. The rubber cap will serve as a seal. Poke a hole directly over the point where air exits the tank valve. Use the yoke and yoke screw to secure the seat retainer in place with the seat pointed at a child or pet. Slowly crack open the tank valve and voila!

View attachment 556857



If you decide to go that route, @lowviz is looking for a MK15 with the hex key seat retainer.

On the other hand, I have plenty of MK10s to sell. :-D

If I'm understanding your method, could a blow gun be used instead?

So, I finally got around to rebuilding the first stage. I replaced everything except the HP seat because: they are rare and I don't have IP creep. My plan was to save it until needed but I have another problem: when inhaling through the second stage the IP drops about 30 psi. As far as I can tell nothing is leaking. What should I suspect as the culprit? Weak piston spring, perhaps? I have the IP set to 140 and when I take a breath it drops to about 110, returns immediately to about 135, then gradually goes back to 140. I am using an old steel 72 with a K-valve and about 2000 psi.

 

[rsingler]

If I'm understanding your method, could a blow gun be used instead?

When things are REALLY stuck, a blowgun doesn't provide enough force.
Instead, @couv 's cover with a pinhole acts like a seal between the tank neck and the HP seat carrier. The yoke holds it in place, and the yoke knob tightens it all down.
When you crack the tank, make sure the seat is pointed away from you!