ATX DS4 first stage blow out!

[gcarter]

Actually, Mares routinely includes Loctite 242 blue thread locker use on yoke threads, and Loctite 222 purple thread locker on DIN threads. So it’s not just a make-do hack.

It is a make-do hack if it is not prescribed by the manufacturer.

 

[jgttrey]

What's amazing is that it came so fully unscrewed before being detected. Had it been even a little loose on prior dives there would have been a ton of bubbling.

FWIW, as long as you don't lose the sintered filter, the o-ring that retains it is nothing special. Same as LP port on the first stage.

 

[JackD342]

It is a make-do hack if it is not prescribed by the manufacturer.

Agree fully. Just pointing out it is not something dreamed up out of nowhere by the shop suggesting it.

 

[divad]

For me the laziest, easiest, most reassuring thing to do is simply check/tighten the hex retainers every dive just before attaching. You can't check them with your fingers, so you may as well just check them with tightening wrench.

 

[tursiops]

Torque specs on my reg is 230 inch lbs.

That's 26 N-m, quite a bit more than the 20 N-m quoted in post #7.

 

[O-ring]

That's 26 N-m, quite a bit more than the 20 N-m quoted in post #7.

I just looked at the 2012 version of the manual and it says 20 Nm. Maybe there was a tech bulletin or a later version somewhere with a higher torque value?

 

[divad]

Torque Schmork....they still become loose....carry the proper size hex wrench and check.

 

[tursiops]

I just looked at the 2012 version of the manual and it says 20 Nm. Maybe there was a tech bulletin or a later version somewhere with a higher torque value?

The 26 N-m quoted was for a Deep 6, not an Apeks.
He's also missing part #10....the plastic saddle, unless he can glue the old one back together!

 

[O-ring]

The 26 N-m quoted was for a Deep 6, not an Apeks.
He's also missing part #10....the plastic saddle, unless he can glue the old one back together!

If you have a DS4 handy maybe you can test @jgttrey 's theory that it should hiss or bubble a bit first. Just back it off a quarter turn, turn the tank back on and repeat and then let us know the results. I'm too scared to try it after the OP's experience.

 

[jgttrey]

I promise you it will.

It's just an o-ring that goes around the circumference of the filter, lightly holding it in place, and then face seals on the body of the first stage - exactly like your DIN fitting does on the tank valve.

If you back it off, it will leak - significantly - just as it would if you don't screw your first stage DIN fitting into the valve all the way.