Removing the diaphragm from a second stage

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This is most likely obvious to most, but I noticed that a gentle pressure on top of the nut with one finger stops the hissing. As far as tightening, I'm confused about what I'm supposed to hold from turning while turning the nut clockwise. I looked at the end of the bolt (shaft?) the nut is threaded on, and it is flat (i.e. nowhere to put a screwdriver). I attach one more picture, the white plastic part moves back and forth in response to the lever.

IMG_20200328_164355410.jpg
 
This is most likely obvious to most, but I noticed that a gentle pressure on top of the nut with one finger stops the hissing. As far as tightening, I'm confused about what I'm supposed to hold from turning while turning the nut clockwise. I looked at the end of the bolt (shaft?) the nut is threaded on, and it is flat (i.e. nowhere to put a screwdriver). I attach one more picture, the white plastic part moves back and forth in response to the lever.

View attachment 576990

Sorry, I described how to adjust a Conshelf and your regulator is similar, but different.

You're going to have to take the other side (hose side) apart and you will need a special tool to hold the other side of that shaft the nut is on while you loosen the nut. You can damage your regulator if you don't use the correct tool and I'm not familiar with that brand of regulator, so I don't know the exact tool you will need.

Unless you are really interested in taking a course on learning to service your own regulator, you should probably bring it to a technician that has the right tool. When you bring it in, tell them you just want it adjusted, not fully serviced. If they are not busy, they could do it while you wait. If the shop you go to is a good one, they might let you watch while they do it if you ask nicely. Don't get upset if they say no, some really good techs just don't enjoy anyone looking over their shoulder.
 
Unless you are really interested in taking a course on learning to service your own regulator, you should probably bring it to a technician that has the right tool.

That makes sense, I'll bring it to the shop where I bought it when it re-opens.
 
Having never worked on any regs, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express:

Does the poppet shaft turn when you try to spin the nut? My understanding is some use square shafts to keep them from rotating while the lever nut is adjusted.
 
Having never worked on any regs, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express:

Does the poppet shaft turn when you try to spin the nut? My understanding is some use square shafts to keep them from rotating while the lever nut is adjusted.

Ooh, yes, maybe! Good possibility!
 
This is most likely obvious to most,
Well...not that obvious or we would have you sorted. :confused:

Let's remove the hose and have a peek inside the air barrel. (Remember to use two wrenches.) If you can get a picture inside the fitting looking toward the regulator after you remove the hose.
 
Lets hold up here a bit.
There are 2 adjustments on (most) modern regs of this type, I suspect this one has both.
The orifice adjustment, which is done from INSIDE THE HOSE connection and the lever adjustment which is the nut you see. These have to be done in order. This is assuming you have just a slight freeflow and is not initial setup.
First remove the hose using 2 wrenches (you may need a thin one) and look inside the hole. You will likely see either a flat screwdriver slot or look carefully, a hex shape in the hole- this is often hard to see, sticking hex keys in to see if one grabs is sometimes the only way to tell. If you see a screwdriver slot or have a hex shaped hole, you have an adjustable orifice.
This is a generic adjustment but should work.

1. ensure there is a little bit of play in the lever. It should move freely just slightly, 1/16 to 1/8 is ok at this point. If it does not move, adjust the nut out slightly. This will require a straight screwdriver and wrench ( a pain to do) or a special tool. This should be checked with the reg pressurized but adjusting it for excess now is ok too.
2. from the hose end, turn the orifice clockwise in (screwdriver or hex) no more than 1/8 turn, reconnect hoses, pressurize the reg and check for leaks. With the inline tool this can be done more easily, without one, it's a trial and error but with a little practice it's not bad. You may have to repeat this step a couple times. There is no need install the hoses more than finger tight at this point, tighten the hoses with a wrench when you are done with the adjustments.
3. With the reg pressurized, check for a slight freeflow and that there is still some lever freeplay. If there is no freeflow and some lever play, move on to step 4, if there is no lever freeplay, adjust the nut slightly to establish some freeplay. If you have lever freeplay and still have a freeflow, go back to step 2 and repeat. If you repeat this several times and have turned the orifice around 1/2 a turn total, I would start to suspect a bad seat or orifice.
4. Completely assemble the reg, pressurize it and listen for a freeflow, shake the reg, listening for the lever tapping against the diaphragm. A slight tapping of the lever (indicating some freeplay) is preferred. If no tapping is heard, the lever may need slightly more freeplay. Excess freeplay should be removed by turning the nut in slightly. The purpose of this is to ensure the lever is as close to the diaphragm as possible but at the same time ensure it is not being slightly depressed by the diaphragm which can cause a slight freeflow when the reg is assembled. Since it is not possible to see the spacing and difficult to measure, this audible test is the easiest to do. As the seat takes a set over time, this freeplay will also help reduce the chance of a freeflow as the freeplay will be taken up as the seat sets. Setting it tight at this point may require an adjustment down the line.....which may be your problem now.

Hope this helps. Be sure to check your hoses are tight.
 
Well...not that obvious or we would have you sorted. :confused:

Let's remove the hose and have a peek inside the air barrel. (Remember to use two wrenches.) If you can get a picture inside the fitting looking toward the regulator after you remove the hose.
Pardon my long pause; work has been keeping me busy. I guess this is the flat screwdriver slot @herman refers to. It looks a bit delicate, just because it is plastic. Assuming that really is the orifice adjustment, I guess I need a flat screwdriver almost as wide as the inside of the barrel

IMG_20200511_213941761.jpg
 
Pardon my long pause; work has been keeping me busy. I guess this is the flat screwdriver slot @herman refers to. It looks a bit delicate, just because it is plastic. Assuming that really is the orifice adjustment, I guess I need a flat screwdriver almost as wide as the inside of the barrel

View attachment 585682
That is indeed the Orifice, a plastic one in your reg. When you make the adjustment (as Herman said, small, 1/8th turn at a time), hold the lever down. That bit of blue you see in there is the soft seat that seals against the orifice, and depressing the lever will lift it of the orifice while you turn it so the sharp edge of the orifice can't cut the seat.

Respectfully,
James
 
More nylon than plastic
PICT0003.JPG
and they are fairly tough. But, yea, you want a screwdriver as wide as will fit. I have ground don the flair that is usually above the edge so as to get the widest possible blade in there.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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