What manifold do I buy for PST104'S?

[Caveeagle]

I must be missing something obvious? What exactly do you mean? I always thought 300 bar manifolds were a little beefier. Maybe that’s just an assumption I made.

nah.. the 300Bar din valves have deeper cavities and are more prone to distortion if they get banged around. They are also a bit of a PITA when you are moving around regs and fill whips.

I have a couple 300Bar set ups, and they work fine.. but I wouldn’t buy any that way on purpose.

 

[divad]

My Halcyon manifold is 300 bar. Maybe I should knock it around a bit to improve morale.

 

[O-ring]

Funny how a few years changes things. Last year's diamond is this year's kryptonite.

 

[rddvet]

I agree 300 bar is a pain for screwing fill whips into. I don’t see how the 300 bar is more prone to distortion though. Mayne it’s the brands I have. My 300 bar are heavier duty than my 200 bar.

 

[rjack321]

I agree 300 bar is a pain for screwing fill whips into. I don’t see how the 300 bar is more prone to distortion though. Mayne it’s the brands I have. My 300 bar are heavier duty than my 200 bar.

If you bang the opening of a 300bar manifold (like in the back of a pickup) it is unsupported and will go out of round to the point that you can't thread the connector in. SS DIN plugs avoid this issue as they support the edges of the opening - but not everyone uses them all the time. Since you don't need those extra 3 threads they are best left off - hence 200 bar are the preferred connector.

In fact, in practice, the 300 bar valve outlet has proven itself to be more fragile than the 200 bar valve outlet. The 300 bar valve outlet is so long that the smallest 'ding' on the edge of the opening can slightly warp the cylindrical opening, causing the regulator to become difficult or impossible to completely seat. This problem does not seem nearly as pronounced with the 200 bar valve outlets, although it remains an issue and all DIN outlets should be protected from dings.
SCUBA Valves | Dive Gear Express®

 

[divad]

If you bang the opening of a 300bar manifold (like in the back of a pickup) it is unsupported and will go out of round to the point that you can't thread the connector in. SS DIN plugs avoid this issue as they support the edges of the opening - but not everyone uses them all the time. Since you don't need those extra 3 threads they are best left off - hence 200 bar are the preferred connector.

In fact, in practice, the 300 bar valve outlet has proven itself to be more fragile than the 200 bar valve outlet. The 300 bar valve outlet is so long that the smallest 'ding' on the edge of the opening can slightly warp the cylindrical opening, causing the regulator to become difficult or impossible to completely seat. This problem does not seem nearly as pronounced with the 200 bar valve outlets, although it remains an issue and all DIN outlets should be protected from dings.
SCUBA Valves | Dive Gear Express®

DANG...................it's always Something.

 

[rddvet]

If you bang the opening of a 300bar manifold (like in the back of a pickup) it is unsupported and will go out of round to the point that you can't thread the connector in. SS DIN plugs avoid this issue as they support the edges of the opening - but not everyone uses them all the time. Since you don't need those extra 3 threads they are best left off - hence 200 bar are the preferred connector.

In fact, in practice, the 300 bar valve outlet has proven itself to be more fragile than the 200 bar valve outlet. The 300 bar valve outlet is so long that the smallest 'ding' on the edge of the opening can slightly warp the cylindrical opening, causing the regulator to become difficult or impossible to completely seat. This problem does not seem nearly as pronounced with the 200 bar valve outlets, although it remains an issue and all DIN outlets should be protected from dings.
SCUBA Valves | Dive Gear Express®

It appears my view is skewed then because my 200 bar must be cheap ones. My 300 bar are much more heavy duty than my 200. Now I'm going to pay attention to what other 300 bar look like.

 

[rjack321]

It appears my view is skewed then because my 200 bar must be cheap ones. My 300 bar are much more heavy duty than my 200. Now I'm going to pay attention to what other 300 bar look like.

Its a function of the length of the threads, even miniscule dings to the outer edge misalign the male DIN as it screws in. Usually they will go 4-6 turns but since they aren't perfectly straight, the oring ring never gets to the back of the fitting to seal.

When DGX started making/importing valves they didn't even bother having 300 bar valves made. I still have a couple of 300 bar thermos but I am phasing them out. I hate the price of crush washers and there's no way to access the gas once the DIN goes out of round. A 5/8" BST tap to fix them is crazy expensive too.

 

[rddvet]

Its a function of the length of the threads, even miniscule dings to the outer edge misalign the male DIN as it screws in. Usually they will go 4-6 turns but since they aren't perfectly straight, the oring ring never gets to the back of the fitting to seal.

When DGX started making/importing valves they didn't even bother having 300 bar valves made. I still have a couple of 300 bar thermos but I am phasing them out. I hate the price of crush washers and there's no way to access the gas once the DIN goes out of round. A 5/8" BST tap to fix them is crazy expensive too.

That makes more sense. I thought you were talking about the outer aspect the valve getting bent out of shape. I wasn't thinking about threads.