Scubapro 108HP

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Slack in the lever equals a gap correct?
Not exactly. Slack may cause the lever to rattle. The gap I referring to is the gap between the diaphragm and the lever. It sounds to me you are getting close, you just need to continue with the adjustment. Next step is to bring the lever back up to full height, then adjust the orifice to mate with the seat. If you lose lever height, bring it back up-continue this process until everything is in place.

I cannot explain this procedure better than Pete Wolfinger. See Reg Savvy Chapter 15 starting on page 144.
 
In this thread Luis provides a diagram and parts list of the intermediate 108 with the larger exhaust valve and fixed orifice (like mine!) dated 1976 along with a drawing of the 109 and, as a real bonus, the 128 Pilot!
ScubaPro R109/R156?
A belated thanks to Luis H, a really valuable contributor to Scubaboard.
 
Not exactly. Slack may cause the lever to rattle. The gap I referring to is the gap between the diaphragm and the lever. It sounds to me you are getting close, you just need to continue with the adjustment. Next step is to bring the lever back up to full height, then adjust the orifice to mate with the seat. If you lose lever height, bring it back up-continue this process until everything is in place.

I cannot explain this procedure better than Pete Wolfinger. See Reg Savvy Chapter 15 starting on page 144.
Read it.... thanks

So the best I could do is .9, 135 IP, three threads showing, good purge.
 
Well, that actually sounds pretty good to me. If you're having freeflow during a bucket check then you may have to try shimming the spring. Or you could lower the IP-but that does not address the real issue.
 
0.9" is a bit too low for me on a reg without the knob... I would tune it at 1.1-1.2".
As Couv said, if the screw does not allow it, add a brass or stainless-steel shim.
 
0.9" is a bit too low for me on a reg without the knob... I would tune it at 1.1-1.2".
As Couv said, if the screw does not allow it, add a brass or stainless-steel shim.
Update... got it to crack at 1.1 with good purge almost perfect lever height, the only thing is the orifice is turned all the way in. I adjusted the lever with the nut just to take up the slack with no tension on the spring.
 
Update... got it to crack at 1.1 with good purge almost perfect lever height, the only thing is the orifice is turned all the way in. I adjusted the lever with the nut just to take up the slack with no tension on the spring.
Looks perfect! Now you have to dive it...
 
Scubapro Timeline
I posted the 2nd stages word doc a while ago and here is the 1st stage.
I only cut and pasted from the original time line what i was interested in. Too bad i did not copy the lot but did not expect Scubapro to be a bunch of so and so's

Here they both are together

Please enjoy.
 

Attachments

  • First Stages Timeline.docx
    7.8 MB · Views: 79
  • SECOND STAGES TIMELINE.docx
    6 MB · Views: 68
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom