Should I buy a scuba tank or save up more to buy open water course PADI

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I am trying to stay away from steel tanks becuase of corrosion on the inside of water gets in.

How to phrase this without coming across a complete ahole.

You don't know what you don't know yet. In class you will learn that you NEVER let a tank get completely empty, you ALWAYS have a reserve left. The only way water gets into your tank is if it goes totally empty, in which you have much bigger problems in how to breath underwater.

In Indenia with what you've said your diving cold water which means thick wetsuit or drysuit, similar to here in NE. Steel tanks have advantages over aluminum for trim and bouyancy reasons. All the non vacation divers up here dive steel tanks.

Also aluminum will also oxidize

I expect to actually go in a lower size as I’m 220 and 511 which is in the obease spectrum I’m trying my hardest to lose weight and get down to my goal weight which is 130

At 14 you will grow if your already 5 11 expect to grow you might get slimmer but you will definitely get taller.

Again hold off on any gear purchases until you know you can and like this. Then figure out what you like best.
 
If you haven’t taken open water, don’t spend more money on gear. Get certified first. You will learn about gear as you go. Being in Indiana, l have no idea what the local diving scene is, or the availability of rental gear is. If you travel, tanks and weights will be found at the destination and are not something you want to bring along.
 
I am trying to stay away from steel tanks becuase of corrosion on the inside of water gets in.
I agree with formernuke above. You've got a lot to learn, and it sounds like the enthusiasm to learn and stick with it.

Steel tanks are, in many ways superior to AL, though AL tanks are quite prevalent, and overall, there is nothing wrong with them, but there are a couple of things to be aware of. AL tanks tend to have greater swings in buoyancy between full and empty compared to steels. AL tanks actually go positively buoyant as they empty, but steels remain negatively buoyant. The positive buoyancy needs to be offset by weight, so you'll have to dive with more weight with an aluminum tank compared to steel. Corrosion is not really a huge concern as long as the tank is cared for. Internal corrosion is unlikely as the SCUBA air is really dry, and unless the pressure drops below ambient, there is really no way for moisture or water to get inside.

Also, you mentioned you buy mostly used. Be careful with buying older Aluminum tanks. Most dive shops won't fill an AL tank that was made before 1990 or so, regardless of VIP or Hydro status. There is generally no concern like that for steel tanks.
 
Aluminum Tanks older than 2000 may not get filled by all shops. Buying used gear is best done with someone who knows what they are looking at. A lot of used gear may have been used 3 or 4 times, 30 years ago. Dive shops love to sell packages to new divers that inclusive, but relatively low quality. After a decade, the glued seams can get brittle and then fail. A lot of used gear is crap that falls into those categories. What looks great deal for $50 may cost $300 to replace hoses and service and give you gear that might be worth $250. Parts may not even be available.
 
Aluminum Tanks older than 2000 may not get filled by all shops. Buying used gear is best done with someone who knows what they are looking at. A lot of used gear may have been used 3 or 4 times, 30 years ago. Dive shops love to sell packages to new divers that inclusive, but relatively low quality. After a decade, the glued seams can get brittle and then fail. A lot of used gear is crap that falls into those categories. What looks great deal for $50 may cost $300 to replace hoses and service and give you gear that might be worth $250. Parts may not even be available.
"AL tanks older than 2000"-- really? Thanks, I didn't know that. My 4 are from the early '90s. Yearly visuals and good to go.
 
AL tanks tend to have greater swings in buoyancy between full and empty compared to steels.
No, not if the tanks are the same size. The buoyancy change between full and empty depends only on the amount of air that was used, not on the metal of the container it was in.
 
That's ridiculous. Find another shop.
I didn’t say I agree with it or that it is fair, but some shops have arbitrary cut offs for tanks. If he is buying used scuba gear in an area with one shop within a four drive radius (I know nothing about diving in Indiana) and they refuse to fill the tank, his money was wasted. Used AL tanks are not particularly rare, so a non vintage AL will show up eventually at a fair price. I am sure there are all sorts of regulators and such shops won’t service because of age, brand or model. Plenty of old crap filling barns (they have barns in Indiana?) and people that know nothing, willing to sell it.

I have actually been waiting for the BP/W crowd to start chiming in.
 
I have actually been waiting for the BP/W crowd to start chiming in.
For a growing boy, BPW isn't a bad call (adjustability)... but it's not the only option. I and my boys love BPW, and my wife prefers jacket BCDs. I think the OP should try both jacket and back inflate via rentals... and then decide what HE wants.
Of course, my opinion is always worth what you paid for it! lol
Respectfully,
James
 
I have actually been waiting for the BP/W crowd to start chiming in.
Chime in about BP/W why? Long term he wants to dive a chest mounted O2 only rebreather in the military. Jacket vs BP/W, as the vehicle for his civilian scuba familiarization prior, is lost in the noise in that path. Sure, a plate and harness is closer to the harness he will use in the OC part of his eventual training and I think a better idea for him or divers in general, but still in the noise on his path.

Swim training and getting fit are more important.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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