New diver from Arkansas

[Brett Hatch]

I’m leaning towards the backplate wing setup, but I’m not sure if I should go for the steel. In class I was completely neutral with their equipment without weight in rash guard and shorts. I’m down 30 lbs of fat since then so I’m possibly negative. If I let out half of my breath I can sit on the bottom of my pool. Would the steel possibly be too much weight?

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I ordered the deep six 3 mil suit that was recommended here.

It's possible that the steel plate would be too dense, depends mainly on the exposure suit and tanks you're running. But most times, steel is the way to go. As one point of reference, I'm 5'11, 160 lbs, just a bit positively buoyant, and I wore the size M Deep6 3mm in warm salt water earlier this year with my steel plate and rented AL80 tanks. With no lead at all, I was buoyant in shallow water with a near-empty tank, so slapped 4 pounds of lead in the weight pockets and was good to go for the whole week.

High pressure steel 100cf tanks like the ones I dove at home are roughly 5 pounds more negative than AL80s, so I would have been set with no lead. If you dive some low pressure steels, I'd consult a chart like this one to see if they are substantially more negative than a typical PST-100, and if so go for the aluminum plate. In the end, if you end up wanting a different plate, keep in mind that they only run about $80, and are pretty much interchangeable between different brands.

Edit: Oh yeah, and I should have mentioned. You already have a point of reference for total ballast with whatever gear you took the class in. Steel plates are about 6 lbs negative, aluminum plates about 2 lbs negative. So if you needed 6 or more pounds lead, then a steel plate would have been just fine for that setup. The fact that you've lost weight since then, and are probably looking at a less buoyant BCD might knock a pound or two off. Also, not sure what exposure gear you had for the class, but if it was some other 3mm full suit, then the buoyancy will be similar to the D6. Clear as mud?

 

[Devojrx7]

Steel is usually the choice particularly if you have any suit on. If you are that close to negative AL or cutout steel might be better. It also gives you more flexibility in where you allocate ballast in terms of trim. Just please do work to trim yourself out by putting lead where you need it. Life diving is much easier if you float horizontal when not actively doing anything. More drag vertically so depth control is easier, less drag and oriented to kick in the direction you likely want to move, horizontally.
On BP/W basics, you might read the first parts of this: Beginners Guide To BP/W

One of our bigger guys, @tbone1004, might advise you more on plate sizes for being 6’1” 180.

Tanks play in as well. AL80s need about 4lb of lead to balance their buoyancy when near empty. Steels tanks are often negative when near empty. What tanks do you have?

For BP/W, you and son are likely identical in terms of plate, I think, so I'd just focus on a set for you, try it, then adapt when getting a separate set for him.

I would get your octo the same quality as your main second stage. It will be used in stress, you do not want lower quality adding to the stress.

All the SP regs are good. The hydros BC is thought over priced for what it is. The regs not as much, though something like the Deep6 is very good and less. But a reg from a local shop and locally serviced has extra value as well.

The second stage being adjustable (like the 370) is good. In the first stage, a low pressure port on the end, 5th port, is nice for hose routing but not essential. A turret is also nice but not essential. Sealed is also nice for less maintenance worry. I'm not sure if the mk11 is sealed. If I wanted the best, to me, SP now I'd likely get the Mk19 as it is sealed turret, and a G260 or D240. But the 370 seems to cover the basics as does the Mk11. The Mk2 is dirt simple reliable, but unbalanced so harder to breath as the tank reaches empty.

I think getting some from the shop is a good idea. Do they carry any other brands? Atomic Z2 seems nice among the less expensive that your shop might carry. Within the atomic line, the only differences are in the materials. Which makes little difference.
Best First Stage?

I've got the Deep6 7m suit though have not gotten it wet yet.

Thank you so much for all the advice. The shop that did my certification only sells ScubaPro. They are a “platinum” dealer they say.

 

[Kinglake]

Make the trip down to Ricks Dive Center in North Little Rock. They have a huge selection of gear across many different brands. That will at least let you physically try stuff on before buying.

 

[MichaelMc]

Another option on regulators is to go 'vintage'. Particularly ScubaPro 'vintage'. Several on the board focus on older ScubaPro regulators. For second stages: 156, which is balanced, and 109, unbalanced. They are the grandparents of most second stages today. Both perform very well for easy diving. I've got one of each. For shallow < 60' dives the 156 is on par with the S600, Deep6, and G250 that I can tell. Though I think the Deep6 and G250 do better. The Mk10 and Mk5 are balanced 5th port turret regs that perform fine. They just are not sealed, which is not as much an issue in fresh water.

A few on the board buy all the above used, service them to ready to dive condition and sell them. You could get all them serviced at your local shop when needed. Just take with a grain of salt any claims that they are decrepit relics that need to be replaced with the latest shiny version. If you want, you could even get one that is ready to dive, but still take it to your shop for service or checkout to support them. Particularly whatever shop you will be getting fills from. My shop, a top technical one in the Bay area, felt they were great, your's may feel differently.

Some in the vintage section go Mike Nelson style tanks, regulators and wetsuits, but the the Mk10 156 group is more that regulator technology has not advanced that much and those older ones work just fine and better than some new ones. An option. Scanning through Vintage Equipment Diving for 156 Mk10 will give you an impression. (The Mk10 is likely the recommended. If you get a Mk5, make sure it has the newer 'stepped' piston or the shop will likely not service it unless they can replace the older one with the new 'stepped' one.)

At the other mentioned dive shop, Aqualung Legend is also apparently a good regulator. The Apeks XTX50 is well liked though pricier in the US and falls under the same company as AquaLung.

 

[Protondecay123]

Make the trip down to Ricks Dive Center in North Little Rock. They have a huge selection of gear across many different brands. That will at least let you physically try stuff on before buying.

I'm pretty sure that Rick's Dive n Travel in NLR closed for business a few months ago. The photo below is from Facebook

 

[Kinglake]

I'm pretty sure that Rick's Dive n Travel in NLR closed for business a few months ago. The photo below is from FacebookView attachment 603624

You are right. I wasn't aware they closed.

 

[Devojrx7]

I'm pretty sure that Rick's Dive n Travel in NLR closed for business a few months ago. The photo below is from FacebookView attachment 603624

Damn that sucks.

 

[tbone1004]

volleyball weekend so I haven't been on or finished reading.

Your size should fit the Deep6 wetsuits perfectly, probably at XL.
You are also the size that the backplates were originally designed for, so any standard backplate will be optimal for you

 

[Chavodel8en]

I recently bought a BP/W - shopped around, and the Dive Gear Express single tank set up was the cheapest I could find. Economical gear is a must for me. DGX BC Systems | BCs | Dive Gear Express®

I personally dont like the one-piece webbing harness (bc its a PITA to make adjustments). If I did it again, I might shell out extra to get an adjustable harness -- but the price on a one-piece harness is just so low in comparison. Ive got 4 dives on the BP/W - and maybe Ive finally got it adjusted correctly and can forget about what a PITA it was for the rest of my local diving into the future. But it sure was a PITA to adjust.

 

[MichaelMc]

If you thread it as an 'H harness' the shoulder straps come off the waist belt instead of being the same continuous webbing. They get joined by an T piece, if joining very near the front of the waist, or angled T piece if joining more to the back of the waist. It can provide more arm room and supports the belt further along before being pulled down by the crotch strap. Just a slightly different setup, and not the quick release break in webbing some worry about for reliability.

It also makes changing shoulder length or rethreading shoulder bits separate from the waist bits, so much less of a pain.

The 'T joints' or 'waist shoulder junction plates' can be hard to find though, and is another thing to buy. Here is one source: Angled Harness Comfort Clip. I got mine from SUMP UK on Facebook.