Si tech inflator valve

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Daved222269

Contributor
Messages
141
Reaction score
34
Location
Cleveland Ohio
# of dives
200 - 499
04F9E481-5DAB-40A5-BB45-99DCEC301865.jpeg
CF246871-EE26-4153-ABB5-975A87B697D5.jpeg
Trying to rebuild a si tech skeleton inflator valve. Can’t find detailed instructions, I don’t want to break this taking it apart. I removed the logo decal, then used two Allen keys to break loose front screw and “washer”. On the back side there’s a hex nut, spring and internal parts under that. How do you remove the hex piece from the back side?
Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • DDA1784D-EE9E-454F-A286-364DF4B1C00A.jpeg
    DDA1784D-EE9E-454F-A286-364DF4B1C00A.jpeg
    11.6 KB · Views: 76
There's probably a proprietary thin walled large socket that fits it (#^#@$@#). Like most people I don't have THAT tool, and don't want to find it.

I used a pair of needle nose vise-grips to get a bite on it. Regular pliers and vise grips can't fit in there. It just unscrews normally but can be tight if it's been in there awhile (likely). and not being able to get a good grip on it makes the problem more frustrating. Once you get the nut off the center part just pushes out. 2 O-rings. Simple clean, lube, and replace.

After a couple re-builds with THAT annoyance I took a cutting wheel and cut, then filed 2 large grooves in opposite sides of the 'nut' that the vise grips could get a solid, easy grip on You could also grind 2 flats down a LOT. There's more than enough metal on that nut.
 
There's probably a proprietary thin walled large socket that fits it (#^#@$@#). Like most people I don't have THAT tool, and don't want to find it.

I used a pair of needle nose vise-grips to get a bite on it. Regular pliers and vise grips can't fit in there. It just unscrews normally but can be tight if it's been in there awhile (likely). and not being able to get a good grip on it makes the problem more frustrating. Once you get the nut off the center part just pushes out. 2 O-rings. Simple clean, lube, and replace.

After a couple re-builds with THAT annoyance I took a cutting wheel and cut, then filed 2 large grooves in opposite sides of the 'nut' that the vise grips could get a solid, easy grip on You could also grind 2 flats down a LOT. There's more than enough metal on that nut.
Ok, makes sense. Kinda what I thought, tried to fit sockets but they’re too thick. I ground down a special scubapro socket once already. I’ll try some pliers, or maybe make another socket. Thank you for the good info.
 
IMO there is absolutely no good reason for THAT stupid nut other than discouraging DIY from working on it. Some of their 'almost' identical valves have a simple socket fitting instead of a nut. Too easy.
 
This could also be a good project for 3D printing. Just measure the size of the nut and print a tool for it!
 
and from what material would you print your 1mm walled socket
 
One could always take a Dremel with a cutting disk and cut a groove in the face of the fastener and then use a wide flat-head screwdriver to loosen/tighten it.

-Z
 
Probably grinding a normal socket would fit, just grab a cheap one with the 1/4 " or 1/2" hex socket and go easy.
I don't think the nut is deadly tightened.
just my 2c.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom