How to remove Seized Din Insert

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

$25 if you're patient and wait for them to throw Thermo's on their clearance section which they do every month or so
I actually picked up two blue steel 3442 pro K valve from dgx for $25 each for this case. Did this as soon as my LDS said its $70 to overhaul a tank valve since they have a 3rd party do it for them... :eek:

I just want to be able to use the air in the tank and not waste the fill.

Thanks all, I'm going to try all of the above. Ill let you know how it goes.
 
I actually picked up two blue steel 3442 pro K valve from dgx for $25 each for this case. Did this as soon as my LDS said its $70 to overhaul a tank valve since they have a 3rd party do it for them... :eek:

I just want to be able to use the air in the tank and not waste the fill.

Thanks all, I'm going to try all of the above. Ill let you know how it goes.

Do you have a transfill whip and other tanks you could move at least part of the fill into?
 
Since its apart why not just hit it PB blaster or other penetrating oil? Let it soak a few hours.
Probably best to do after a vinegar soak in the ultrasound as was suggested.
Be wary of any force applied to it, brass is not known to be tolerant metal and you may crack it.
 
Steel is one thing brass is much softer.

I am with the Captain on the use of an impact wrench on brass. Seems like a good way to strip the insert. My only concern with heating is the effect on the o-rings becoming a mess.
 
I am with the Captain on the use of an impact wrench on brass. Seems like a good way to strip the insert. My only concern with heating is the effect on the o-rings becoming a mess.

Although I'm in basic agreement with you guys, it's always a matter of the amount of force. I wouldn't advise someone who has no experience breaking loose things that can break, to start using force they don't understand.

That being said, I would use my screwdriver impact gun for a quick check, and if it works great, if not on to other solutions.
 
I am with the Captain on the use of an impact wrench on brass. Seems like a good way to strip the insert. My only concern with heating is the effect on the o-rings becoming a mess.

I promise you, the impact gun is gives infinitely less risk of stripping the insert than trying any conventional methods. Area under the curve causes things to strip, and impact guns have almost no area under the curve. They can apply the same amount of force as a cheater bar with a negligible amount of area under the force curve. Tightening first will cause the crystals to break, and then it will come out.
 
When you do strip the hex head, I have found that hammering a standard blade screwdriver into the insert works well.
 
Disassemble the valve and remove all o rings. But the valve body and insert in a pot of boiling water for 10-15 minutes. Take out of pot (with tongs) and immediately transfer to a pot of ice water. The expansion and contraction between the metal in the two parts should hopefully break loose the corrosion.
 

Back
Top Bottom