Donating long hose with 90°?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

i route my primary under my right arm and up to my mouth using a full swivel although a 90 would probably work just fine. when handing off in an ooa situation, you just have to remember to get the hose out from under your arm and over your shoulder. easy peasy.
 
i route my primary under my right arm and up to my mouth using a full swivel although a 90 would probably work just fine. when handing off in an ooa situation, you just have to remember to get the hose out from under your arm and over your shoulder. easy peasy.

Are you diving in a 7ft long hose configuration?
 
Are you diving in a 7ft long hose configuration?

no. 48" but i'm tall so its probably the equivalent of of a 40" for someone else. When I dive the 7' (rarely) I route it the same way but tuck the bottom loop into my waist band.
 
@DiveClimbRide would you mind posting a picture of the routing? It took me a few tries to get the routing right on my single-tank rig. The pointers that ended up helping me were:
1) Mount longhose on the 5th port at the end of the 1st stage reg
2) Connect the 1st stage reg to the tank at about a 30 degree angle so that the longhose makes a beeline to my right hip
3) When you tuck the longhose, don't try to make a tight bend, instead make a very wide bend. It should go from somewhere near your navel all the way back to the backplate on the right side, such that most of its length below the waistband is parallel to the waistband (not perpendicular to it). Tucking it wide like this keeps it stable, while still giving you enough slack up top to be comfortable

BTW if you are either tall enough or wide enough (say, over 190cm or over 95kg), there's a good chance that you'll want an extra foot of longhose.
 
download.jpeg this is the regulator I have, the 5th port faces straight out not down unfortunately. I have it set up with the hp ports on the top. Long hose come down behind shoulder in front of the wing. It then goes under the waist belt and comes up in practically the same spot (I'll try having it come up near the middle of the waistbelt this weekend). I'm about 6ft and 80kg and I have a 7ft hose so I think it should be enough.



@DiveClimbRide would you mind posting a picture of the routing? It took me a few tries to get the routing right on my single-tank rig. The pointers that ended up helping me were:
1) Mount longhose on the 5th port at the end of the 1st stage reg
2) Connect the 1st stage reg to the tank at about a 30 degree angle so that the longhose makes a beeline to my right hip
3) When you tuck the longhose, don't try to make a tight bend, instead make a very wide bend. It should go from somewhere near your navel all the way back to the backplate on the right side, such that most of its length below the waistband is parallel to the waistband (not perpendicular to it). Tucking it wide like this keeps it stable, while still giving you enough slack up top to be comfortable

BTW if you are either tall enough or wide enough (say, over 190cm or over 95kg), there's a good chance that you'll want an extra foot of longhose.
 
Keep in mind that in a true donation, using the end port works against you: your long hose is now being pulled by a panicked driver at right angles to its orientation.
Better, I think, to accept slightly suboptimal routing where your hose takes off, so that with the turret, it can be pulled straight out when you donate.
 
None. I used to use a 90 when 7' hoses were stiffer, now they are much more pliable (not milflex) so I found no reason for a 90.

Just make sure its a "true" 90 and not a 90 swivel. A 90 only adds an additional static O-ring, where the 90 swivel has at least one additional dynamic O-ring and they really do have a tendency to fail or come apart. I'm meticulous with my gear and i had one fail, as did my buddy. And I have seen lots of others bubbling or outright fail on dive boats.

Not trying to derail the topic, but swivels have been talked about in nausium before. As far as I know (which isn't much) there was an older version that had issues that you describe, and a new version that does not. The new version has a set screw that's supposed to get a dab of loctite on it during rebuild. Follow the instructions and rebuild during regulator service and all will be well.

If the guys in cave country trust them (and they do) then I feel at least comfortable diving them. To each his own, I'm just trying to stop the spread of misinformation. No offense meant. I understand you had a bad experience with the older model, or maybe one that was rebuilt wrong.. doesn't sound like fun at all.

I do like the swivels because its adaptable to whatever situation you throw at it. It's not a huge issue, but clip the reg off its straight down my chest. Reg in the mouth it's a 90 or 110, or whatever feels right. Donate the reg, it at least has some give to do whatever needs done in that situation.

And to those that don't know or haven't used them, a swivel doesn't just flop around when pressurized. You can "set" it where you want and it stays there, it takes a little force to move it (but it does move no problem) until you release pressure and it moves freely.

Rant over:)
 
.... has a set screw that's supposed to get a dab of loctite on it during rebuild. .....If the guys in cave country trust them (and they do) ....

Rant over:)

No problem, but you are trusting your life to a dynamic O-ring where one is not needed and a "set screw" where one is not needed, and hoping that some dive shop monkey remembers to put loctite on the screw. BTW, I know a lot of "guys in cave country" that dont trust them.....an on occasion I'm one of them. :)
 
No problem, but you are trusting your life to a dynamic O-ring where one is not needed and a "set screw" where one is not needed, and hoping that some dive shop monkey remembers to put loctite on the screw. BTW, I know a lot of "guys in cave country" that dont trust them.....an on occasion I'm one of them. :)

The question as to whether or not to use one is personal preference. I was just saying that they are not the old model. Should you use one, not use one?, idk, but if they're done correctly I wouldn't necessarily deem them "unsafe".

I 100% agree it's another potential point of failure, I'm just saying that the potential is very small / non existent to what it once was. Saying don't use something because you'll die and "this" happened to me xxx years ago when you're not talking about the same thing is misinformation.

And I am my own shop monkey.... no one to blame but me.

100% transparency, --- I'm thinking of changing mine out because I don't really like the idea of another possible point of failure, but that's a personal choice. They're nice in some ways, still undecided.

All I'm saying is instead of throwing out misinformation, lay out the pros and cons and let someone decide for themselves.

Ed @ Cave Adventurers sells them, and I don't think he would do so if they had a high failure rate (as they once did);
Cave Adventurers - Swivel - Marianna, Florida USA - Never Undersold!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom