My Rix SA-6 Diesel

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Following this post because I just picked up my first compressor. I think I got a good deal from a buddy who had purchased a 4.9CFM Gas-powered Alkin Mariner W31. He quickly figured out he really didn't want to fool with manually draining moisture and wanted an auto-shutoff so I got a bargain on a unit with ~20 hours on it and he is ordering a W32 with all the bells and whistles!

I just ordered and received one of these and will install it and test today to see if it will reliably keep track of hours . . . will let you know what I determine!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LD5H937/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice find! I haven't found anything that will work with a diesel engine. This might work, I don't see why not?

Please post your progress somewhere, always looking to learn from someone else.

Automatic moisture drains sound nice, but if / when they get clogged, how fast can things get bad? I don't know how often that happens, but it's been brought up on here before. I don't think I'll mind draining the moisture, at most it'll take an hour to fill tanks, so drain 4-5 times I guess.
 

You know the idea that the devil is in the detail, but its just dawned on me that drains on the branch off the vertical elbow can be done, but in detail, why did I suggest your way of putting the drain on the inlet side on your build is wrong.

Yet putting what looks like a similar drain arrangement on the discharge side in my photo below is OK.
This is the real question that needs an explanation. And its a test LOL

*Apart from ensuring the BPR and gauge fittings didnt stick outside the protective frame if I had used a straight nipple than a male x male elbow

Also note the use of parallel threads into all of the soft aluminium components. The filter shell base, the Visual Indicator and the BPR to avoid over tightning the fitting to get it to align where you want it

Note further that using a positionable Fitting off the visual indicator allows these components to be aligned up
in a direction of choice without graunching up the threads.

HSM 18015 001.jpg
 
Nice find! I haven't found anything that will work with a diesel engine. This might work, I don't see why not?

Please post your progress somewhere, always looking to learn from someone else.

Automatic moisture drains sound nice, but if / when they get clogged, how fast can things get bad? I don't know how often that happens, but it's been brought up on here before. I don't think I'll mind draining the moisture, at most it'll take an hour to fill tanks, so drain 4-5 times I guess.

It works great! They do make a model for Diesels!
 
at most it'll take an hour to fill tanks, so drain 4-5 times I guess.
Every 15 mins is a good rule of thumb. If you are not dumping copious water (ie flooding your filter with deep liquid water) you can extend it a bit but no more than 20mins.

Use a digital kitchen timer.
 
You know the idea that the devil is in the detail, but its just dawned on me that drains on the branch off the vertical elbow can be done, but in detail, why did I suggest your way of putting the drain on the inlet side on your build is wrong.

Yet putting what looks like a similar drain arrangement on the discharge side in my photo below is OK.
This is the real question that needs an explanation. And its a test LOL

*Apart from ensuring the BPR and gauge fittings didnt stick outside the protective frame if I had used a straight nipple than a male x male elbow

Also note the use of parallel threads into all of the soft aluminium components. The filter shell base, the Visual Indicator and the BPR to avoid over tightning the fitting to get it to align where you want it

Note further that using a positionable Fitting off the visual indicator allows these components to be aligned up
in a direction of choice without graunching up the threads.

View attachment 653515

I didn't realize (I don't know why) that the visual indicator can be mounted horizontal.

The "drain" that I have is really just a purge to release pressure from the line so I can undo the quick connect and move the tower.

I have parallel (BSP) fittings on the way.

Thank you for the picture, I think I can make some changes to make things better, will probably have it a lot like that.

I reached out to American Airworks, they said they've been selling this unit for over a decade and never sold a replacement bleeder screw or had a problem with it.

Thank you for all your help. I won't know if I need to actually use the purge on the tower during operation until I get the unit running.

Every 15 mins is a good rule of thumb. If you are not dumping copious water (ie flooding your filter with deep liquid water) you can extend it a bit but no more than 20mins.

Use a digital kitchen timer.

I have read you state before 15-20 min, so the plan was to start @ 12 or so and work my way up to get a feel for it. Kitchen timer is a good idea.
 
I reached out to American Airworks, they said they've been selling this unit for over a decade and never sold a replacement bleeder screw or had a problem with it.

Of the three statements they made to you, can you go back and get two of them verified.

1. Selling this unit over a decade?
2. Never had a problem with it?

Never sold a replacement bleeder screw I can believe, never gets used often enough I guess besides selling to members of the public for personel use who make less than an average 50 fill a year tops, I guess you dont need any spare parts either for it. Out of interest how much did you pay for it and do you have an internal photo and measurement of the OD and the ID and tower length.

Also when you talk to them can you ask
1. Do they know the Aluminium material specification it is made from?
2. Is that protective anodizing just a simple a decorative clear anodize why did they not use a hard anodising
3. What is the burst pressure of the filter shell?
4. What is the rated working pressure to burst pressure of the filter shell ie 2.75:1 or 3:1 or 4:1
5. What is the rated maximum working pressure of the filter shell.
 
Of the three statements they made to you, can you go back and get two of them verified.

1. Selling this unit over a decade?
2. Never had a problem with it?

Never sold a replacement bleeder screw I can believe, never gets used often enough I guess besides selling to members of the public for personel use who make less than an average 50 fill a year tops, I guess you dont need any spare parts either for it. Out of interest how much did you pay for it and do you have an internal photo and measurement of the OD and the ID and tower length.

Also when you talk to them can you ask
1. Do they know the Aluminium material specification it is made from?
2. Is that protective anodizing just a simple a decorative clear anodize why did they not use a hard anodising
3. What is the burst pressure of the filter shell?
4. What is the rated working pressure to burst pressure of the filter shell ie 2.75:1 or 3:1 or 4:1
5. What is the rated maximum working pressure of the filter shell.

I can't see why the bleeder screw would be used unless changing the filter itself. If I'm purging the coalescers at the correct intervals will there be an abundant amount of moisture that gets past? Honest question as I don't know.

I paid $400 including the filter. Over here the least expensive option that I could find for a Lawrence Factor filter tower and filter was ~ $650, and that was used. (My $ might be a little off on the LF, but it was $6xx something).

To (try) and answer your questions;

1. The AL is 6061
2. I don't know (here's all the closeup pictures that I've taken). It doesn't seem to have a coating, but I honestly don't know; Dropbox - Filter - Simplify your life
3. I don't know, it's rated for 6000 psi working psi, but doesn't say what burst pressure is
4. I don't know
5. I don't know

Maybe @Jimbo2 can answer some of these questions (if he feels like it).

The attached picture from the ebay listing is about the extent of what I know (which isn't much). I hope it's legible.

Capture.JPG
 
Heck Rob You bought it off Ebay!
You have a whole list of issues on this contraption. Not withstanding why some seller on EBay would
sell it as an American supplier for the last 10 years LOLx a filter with BSP or should that be BSPP threads made from an inferior 6061 alloy and claim to be rated at 6000 psi. Go figure.

1. To kick off from the dropbox photos and from the details given it takes a 2.75 inch diameter cartridge inside a 4.20" OD outside diameter filter shell.
Do the maths alone using this inferior 6061 alloy and you sure as heck dont make 6000psi
So its not made to any American standard. No problem flog it off on Ebay no returns.

2. To add to your problems the filter is not a filter but a filter/ separator and a poor design at that.
The cartridge is 11.75 inches long.
So first from that length you can minus the ineffective components.

1. Minus the two (2) off 3/4 inch orange plastic spacers,
2. Minus also the seven (7) off 1/4" felt pads,
3. Minus also the 3/4 inch clear plastic cap and base

Then as far as calculating filter life expectancy you have a tube 2.75 inches in diameter minus the thin wall section. So as before:

1. Minus the hopkalite chemical stack length
2. Minus the activated carbon chemical stack length

Now what you are left with is the active filter element of molecular sieve (Zeolite)
Now minus a factor for how good this chemical really is and how much inactive binder the chemical contains. (we dont yet know) But its a pitiful small amount of active chemical you have left for such a big long tower. Regardless of the $400 you paid its an expensive mistake using it on a SA-6 for reasons I will address later.

Now look again at the claim made in that Ebay advert of it processing 13,000 cubic foot at 80F
and ask yourself How?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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