My Rix SA-6 Diesel

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Heck Rob You bought it off Ebay!
You have a whole list of issues on this contraption. Not withstanding why some seller on EBay would
sell it as an American supplier for the last 10 years LOLx a filter with BSP or should that be BSPP threads made from an inferior 6061 alloy and claim to be rated at 6000 psi. Go figure.

1. To kick off from the dropbox photos and from the details given it takes a 2.75 inch diameter cartridge inside a 4.20" OD outside diameter filter shell.
Do the maths alone using this inferior 6061 alloy and you sure as heck dont make 6000psi
So its not made to any American standard. No problem flog it off on Ebay no returns.

2. To add to your problems the filter is not a filter but a filter/ separator and a poor design at that.
The cartridge is 11.75 inches long.
So first from that length you can minus the ineffective components.

1. Minus the two (2) off 3/4 inch orange plastic spacers,
2. Minus also the seven (7) off 1/4" felt pads,
3. Minus also the 3/4 inch clear plastic cap and base

Then as far as calculating filter life expectancy you have a tube 2.75 inches in diameter minus the thin wall section. So as before:

1. Minus the hopkalite chemical stack length
2. Minus the activated carbon chemical stack length

Now what you are left with is the active filter element of molecular sieve (Zeolite)
Now minus a factor for how good this chemical really is and how much inactive binder the chemical contains. (we dont yet know) But its a pitiful small amount of active chemical you have left for such a big long tower. Regardless of the $400 you paid its an expensive mistake using it on a SA-6 for reasons I will address later.

Now look again at the claim made in that Ebay advert of it processing 13,000 cubic foot at 80F
and ask yourself How?

I appreciate all your replies. You do have a lot of insight.

Yes, bought from Ebay but direct from American Airworks. Ebay was just the middle man.

The filter I believe is to be used in a Lawrence Factor filter, model X542442;
Lawrence Factor Breathing Air Filter AC-94505, X542442

I thought Lawrence Factor was reputable? Or maybe you're just saying the filter is not made the way it's best to be made? Do you have an 11.5" model filter that would be better suited for my application?

My filter tower should never really see above say ~ 4000, I don't really have a need for that, so if it says 6000, and I keep it @ 4000 I "think" I'll be ok. I understand that it's not your 1st pick, but in the end if I get ~ 10 years out of it before the knob brakes and have to buy another I'll be ok with that. As long as it doesn't blow apart @ 4000, let alone 6000 I'll be ok with that.

I don't really intend to ever fill when it's 80F out, I'm sure it'll happen, but knowing that it's less work to fill when cooler that's the plan, either morning or night when it cools off. In the summer I might pump 400-600cf / month, so figure an average of 400cf / month through the year, if this filter lasted me 2 years (and pumped 9600cf) I'd be happy with that also. (A new filter every 2 years isn't so bad I think?).

I'm not a filter / compressor guy (I know you are), but to me the filter tower "feels" pretty solid. It is quite heavy, I just can't imagine why something would be sold in the US marketed as 6000 for the last 10 years and they're still rolling along. I do not know the manufacturer of the tower, but I have been told that American Airworks isn't the only one that uses them.

I don't know what I don't know, but I'm always interested to hear your take.... no matter what it always gives me a lot to think about.
 
Yes, bought from Ebay but direct from American Airworks. Ebay was just the middle man.
SNIP

Tell me did you find it yourself on Ebay or were you guided to the Ebay sale by another?
I'm interested in your reply.
 
SNIP

Tell me did you find it yourself on Ebay or were you guided to the Ebay sale by another?
I'm interested in your reply.

I found it myself. I inquired around about the company, some folks with experience said they thought it was good deal.

I'm not sure what SNIP means?
 
I found it myself. I inquired around about the company, some folks with experience said they thought it was good deal.

I'm not sure what SNIP means?

Thanks that explains a lot to me.

The main consideration is that you have a Mil spec oil-free oil-less compressor but the last thing you really need is that filter/separator contraption and to make it even harder on you, using a LF cartridge with all that activated carbon inside that you can never ever have even the slightest benefit from.

Ditch the activated carbon component and you double the filter life, ditch the Hopkalite you double it again and you halve the cost in the process.

Ditch the non working seperator element and you double the active filter life yet again.

Look for the size of tower you purchased you could have had approaching 150 to 200 hours running on a single chemical (molecular sieve) filter cartridge on that SA-6 and using the length of that filter tower.

Instead of buying for your specific compressor what effectivly is a junk product from Ebay the process it offers in filtration half of which wont work on a SA-6 and the other half is not required.

That's why I kicked off with the question if you found this filter yourself or were guided by others.
If only you had asked before bolting off with the credit card.
 
Thanks that explains a lot to me.

The main consideration is that you have a Mil spec oil-free oil-less compressor but the last thing you really need is that filter/separator contraption and to make it even harder on you, using a LF cartridge with all that activated carbon inside that you can never ever have even the slightest benefit from.

Ditch the activated carbon component and you double the filter life, ditch the Hopkalite you double it again and you halve the cost in the process.

Ditch the non working seperator element and you double the active filter life yet again.

Look for the size of tower you purchased you could have had approaching 150 to 200 hours running on a single chemical (molecular sieve) filter cartridge on that SA-6 and using the length of that filter tower.

Instead of buying for your specific compressor what effectivly is a junk product from Ebay the process it offers in filtration half of which wont work on a SA-6 and the other half is not required.

That's why I kicked off with the question if you found this filter yourself or were guided by others.
If only you had asked before bolting off with the credit card.

Do you know of a reusable filter casing that I can pack myself that would fit this unit? 11.5"?

Edit: just to add, because this is a small diesel engine, wouldn't it be wise to use at last some Hopkalite? The carbon might not be needed, but again, if I could find a filter that I could fill myself I could mix and match my own way. I wouldn't even mind trying to open this one up after it's done, but I doubt I'll be able to reuse it. It's glued pretty good.

I've looked for a different filter housing. If I can't find one then using this filter and changing every ~ 2 years isn't the end of the world.
 
Ok, switched some things around... criticism welcome;

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20210430_163335.jpg
 
Put the humidity spyglass in line.
Why all the connection extensions? eg M to FF to MM to FF to M on the digital gauge...
Why is there a PMV on the backside?
Why is there a T after the larger PMV with caps on the ends?

You arent mounting this on a table are you? How are does this fit on the wall?
 
Put the humidity spyglass in line.
Why all the connection extensions? eg M to FF to MM to FF to M on the digital gauge...
Why is there a PMV on the backside?
Why is there a T after the larger PMV with caps on the ends?

You arent mounting this on a table are you? How are does this fit on the wall?

All my gauges are on JIC fittings so they're easily replaceable, or can be removed if not really needed.

How much difference would I see with the humidity sight glass inline? At ~ 3300psi wouldn't the humidity be the same throughout?

The check valve is to prevent the filter losing pressure when the quick connect is disconnected from the compressor, hence the bleeder before the check valve.

The 2 caps are just protecting the threads, that's for the whips.

I still have to build a mount or rack for it.
 
And the T is for a future idea of having straight O2 so I can use that gauge and the same whips...right now it has a plug.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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