Ditchable weights / balanced rig

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I have a HydrosPro for my "warm water" setup. It's a comfy, decent bcd, with a nice LPi and dump valves and ime, once you get the trim pockets on the bladder setup, enables a really good position in the water with a single cylinder (single 12l steel in my case)
What he said ^.
Yes a balanced rig does not require any ditchable weight
And again, what he said^.
 
Brief update - now in the Maldives on a liveaboard. 3mm wetsuit, 1 kg of weight on each side of a 15l tank, trim is great. The rig still wiggles like crazy though, so I think one of the issues is that it's too large for my frame. Will definitely go for a BPW in the next month or so :).
 
I think you should read US Navy Diving Manual and NOAA Diving Manual. Integrate the weights, some on a belt some in the BCD. In tropical waters you shouldn't be using too much lead.
 
Will definitely go for a BPW in the next month or so :).

You should start reading about this.
It is not as simple as you might have thought.
Plenty to learn.
Do not rush it. Time is on your side.

Enjoy your trip in Maldives.
 
See if you can rig up a crotch strap! Makes such a big difference to the stability of the rig ime!

Because of the snap plastic buckle on the std waist strap, you'll neeed to carefully adjust the position of that buckle so that the crotch strap loop sits to the lefthand side of that buckle (as you wear it). Effectively let out the strap on the lhs of the buckle, and take in the strap on the rhs, pushing that buckle to the right
 
Few things for a BP+wing...
  • The harness; just go for a simple one-piece harness. €50 or thereabouts. You don't need breaks in the harness.
  • The backplate: stainless steel 3mm is normal and gives you a couple of kg of weight. Aluminium is lighter (maybe good for flying, or if you're wearing heavy kit in fresh water). Generally use stainless steel. €50 second hand - you don't need new.
  • Wing: need two; one for a single with about 15kg buoyancy, one for a twinset with about 18kg. They're different as the twinset version is wider. Get a doughnut wing, NOT a horseshoe. Don't get a bungeed one. Lots of options around; Halcyon's the most expensive, but there's plenty of others which are just as good.
  • Single tank adapter: required if using a single tank. This is a U-shaped metal plate and a couple of cam bands. You should get 4 weight pouches to put on the cam bands to put your weight. (The number depends on how much weight you need and where you put it). About €50 second hand.
  • Weights; for single tank use weightbelt weights. For a twinset you will use 'V' weights which fit behind the twinset between the wing and backplate. Would suggest you get a "tail weight" too. Get 5 kg in 2kg, 1kg and a 2kg tail weight.
Good post. I don't know why people think BP/W is an expensive proposition, you can get set up for much less than the cost of a typical jacket BCD. And used absolutely works for the plate and even a one piece harness if there aren't any obvious rips or areas of very high wear.

One thing to add is that you don't actually need an STA if you get a wing and a plate with slots for the tank straps (aka cam bands). Cold water divers may want a weighted STA to add some more weight to their rigs and it does make it more convenient if you are switching between single and twin tank configurations (undoing two wing nuts versus rethreading the cam bands). But since you are only diving warm water, you can skip it for now.
 
See if you can rig up a crotch strap! Makes such a big difference to the stability of the rig ime!

Because of the snap plastic buckle on the std waist strap, you'll neeed to carefully adjust the position of that buckle so that the crotch strap loop sits to the lefthand side of that buckle (as you wear it). Effectively let out the strap on the lhs of the buckle, and take in the strap on the rhs, pushing that buckle to the right

Yes, made my own, move the buckle, so simple.
The one I made is a 'quick fix' while I wait for the one on order.
20210430_084939.jpg
 
yup ^^^ that's the way to do it! Makes a big difference to the stability of the unit and gives you another couple of D rings to snap dSMBs or DPVs too :)
 
When you buy the webbing for a BP harness it is usually 2 inches wide including the crotch strap. This size crotch strap provides extra strength when being towed by a DPV. I don't use a DPV so I installed a 1-1/2 inch crotch strap and it is more comfortable for me.
 
This is what the BCD looks like now. Added crotchstrap, changed D-rings, removed waist plastic buckle and added a metal buckle. Bungee cord for inflater (in 6 days of diving didn't have to use it once to deflate), removed the bells and whistles (mini-accessories that made it look like a Xmas tree).
Octopus holder is temporary as I'm switching to a necklace holder and long hose when I get home (diveinn didn't deliver it before I left).
No weight pockets needed, in a rashguard I use no weights and with a 3mm wetsuit I use 2 kilos strapped to the tank.
 

Attachments

  • 2AF26D21-6DBD-4B65-AA53-162540CD6614.jpeg
    2AF26D21-6DBD-4B65-AA53-162540CD6614.jpeg
    67.6 KB · Views: 94
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom