Should I buy a tank, or wait? If buy, What would be my best option?

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Nitrox_DiverNY

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hello all... Im trying to decide if I should buy a cylinder or not, but if so doing a bit of looking to see what kind of cylinder would be the smartest option for me to buy. I just got open water cert but already have scheduled AOW, Nitrox and plan on being quite an active diver. I am even considering a career change to the diving world. Im hooked. Im in Florida a few times a year to visit family and that is where I got my OW and will be getting AOW, Nitrox, but I live on Long Island New York. After I get my AOW this month I want to look into diving the northeast. Ny, Nj, Maine, and NC. At this point is it worth it to buy a cylinder after my AOW for diving the northeast or should I just rent? I have all the other gear including a BCD, Hog D3 regulator, spg, wetsuit, fins, boots, computer. I like the idea of having my own gear for my own "perceived" safety compared to renting it, if that makes any sense. Would steel make more sense for "colder" water diving since it is more negatively buoyant? What size cylinder is most widely used on the east coast for say a 100ft dive to a wreck? Thanks for the help!,- Will
 
Congrats on your new hobby, and welcome to Scuba Board.

Where do you intend to dive? If it's mostly in FL / Caribbean, you should know that flying with a tank is a major PITA, versus renting on-site which is easy and cheap. Most people rent when they fly, unless they have a really good reason to use their own tanks.

If you intend to dive a lot within driving distance of your home, then buying some tanks might be worthwhile. It will take a few dives to pay for itself, but you'll get there eventually. Understand that on top of the upfront cost, there is an annual inspection of approx $20/tank, and every 5 years you'll need a hydro test for maybe $50/tank. For those reasons, I say that the main upside of owning your own tank isn't the savings, but the freedom to fill it whenever is convenient, rather than planning your dive day around pick-up/drop-off.

I have never dived on the East Coast. But googling it, the temps look similar to the West Coast. Here, most people dive steel tanks since (1), they contain more gas for the same weight, and (2) they take up less volume for the same weight, meaning that you can take less lead. I think you'll most likely be happier buying steel tanks. Assuming that your LDS can do high-pressure fills (that is around 3442 psi), go for high-pressure instead of low- or medium-pressure tanks (2200 - 3000 psi).

Steel tanks pretty much never go bad, unless they rust. The inside gets rusty if the tank is stored empty, and the outside gets rusty when salt water gets trapped against the tank without being properly rinsed, like under a rubber boot. Buying used on FB Marketplace or Craigslist will probably save you $100-200 per tank. If you go this route, I would recommend convincing the seller to let you drain the tank, remove the valve, and see if there is rust inside. Make the sale contingent on there being no rust, if there's any rust inside, don't buy it. Seller should be confident enough on their maintenance to take you up on this. After you drain the tank, you'll need to get a new visual inspection from the local dive shop for about $20, which often includes the first air fill.

Whether they let you take the valve off or not, definitely remove any rubber boot or netting from the outside of the tank, and inspect for exterior rust. I would accept a tiny bit of rust coloration on the outside, but refuse anything with a pit deeper than the thickness of my fingernail.
 
IMO, you should wait and see how things shake out for you. Figure out where you are going to be diving. Talk to the experts who dive there. From what you described, you may be a totally different diver with totally different needs in 6 months.
 
Congrats on your new hobby, and welcome to Scuba Board.

Where do you intend to dive? If it's mostly in FL / Caribbean, you should know that flying with a tank is a major PITA, versus renting on-site which is easy and cheap. Most people rent when they fly, unless they have a really good reason to use their own tanks.

If you intend to dive a lot within driving distance of your home, then buying some tanks might be worthwhile. It will take a few dives to pay for itself, but you'll get there eventually. Understand that on top of the upfront cost, there is an annual inspection of approx $20/tank, and every 5 years you'll need a hydro test for maybe $50/tank. For those reasons, I say that the main upside of owning your own tank isn't the savings, but the freedom to fill it whenever is convenient, rather than planning your dive day around pick-up/drop-off.

I have never dived on the East Coast. But googling it, the temps look similar to the West Coast. Here, most people dive steel tanks since (1), they contain more gas for the same weight, and (2) they take up less volume for the same weight, meaning that you can take less lead. I think you'll most likely be happier buying steel tanks. Assuming that your LDS can do high-pressure fills (that is around 3442 psi), go for high-pressure instead of low- or medium-pressure tanks (2200 - 3000 psi).

Steel tanks pretty much never go bad, unless they rust. The inside gets rusty if the tank is stored empty, and the outside gets rusty when salt water gets trapped against the tank without being properly rinsed, like under a rubber boot. Buying used on FB Marketplace or Craigslist will probably save you $100-200 per tank. If you go this route, I would recommend convincing the seller to let you drain the tank, remove the valve, and see if there is rust inside. Make the sale contingent on there being no rust, if there's any rust inside, don't buy it. Seller should be confident enough on their maintenance to take you up on this. After you drain the tank, you'll need to get a new visual inspection from the local dive shop for about $20, which often includes the first air fill.

Whether they let you take the valve off or not, definitely remove any rubber boot or netting from the outside of the tank, and inspect for exterior rust. I would accept a tiny bit of rust coloration on the outside, but refuse anything with a pit deeper than the thickness of my fingernail.
Thank you for the very detailed response! I plan on doing a mix of Florida and NE diving. I would defiantly rent for going to FL but would buy for diving up here. I will look into the HP steel tanks and I'm sure I could find a dive store up here that could fill them. This is some great advice, I really appreciate it! Safe diving!
 
IMO, you should wait and see how things shake out for you. Figure out where you are going to be diving. Talk to the experts who dive there. From what you described, you may be a totally different diver with totally different needs in 6 months.
That is a good point, I already have some spots in mind in the "wreck Vally" that is a boat ride away from long island, and a lighthouse in Maine and conneticut, but I will do some more thinking and talking to people before I pull the trigger on anything. Thanks for the help!
 
Thank you for the very detailed response! I plan on doing a mix of Florida and NE diving. I would defiantly rent for going to FL but would buy for diving up here. I will look into the HP steel tanks and I'm sure I could find a dive store up here that could fill them. This is some great advice, I really appreciate it! Safe diving!
First, if you are going to rent tanks in Florida, I strongly suggest that you do it in a friendly fashion. There is no sense in stirring up animosity through needless defiance. :wink:

I would not be too quick to decide to go with HP tanks. They can be wonderful in the right situation, but in other situations, not so much. I have a set of LP doubles and a set of HP doubles. I am happy to dive with either, but I pretty much can't get the HP tanks filled to capacity.
 
First, if you are going to rent tanks in Florida, I strongly suggest that you do it in a friendly fashion. There is no sense in stirring up animosity through needless defiance. :wink:

I would not be too quick to decide to go with HP tanks. They can be wonderful in the right situation, but in other situations, not so much. I have a set of LP doubles and a set of HP doubles. I am happy to dive with either, but I pretty much can't get the HP tanks filled to capacity.
good to know, I will have to do some more research into the pros and cons of both. But even if you could not fill the HP up to capacity you could still have it filled to 3000psi right?
 
good to know, I will have to do some more research into the pros and cons of both. But even if you could not fill the HP up to capacity you could still have it filled to 3000psi right?
Yes, but I am going to assume that your response indicates that as a new diver you don't understand the difference between PSI and volume. A cylinder has the advertised volume of air in it only when it is filled to its rated capacity. Fill it to different pressures and you get different volumes. To give you an illustration, let's see what happens if I fill 4 different cylinders to 3,000 PSI.

  1. An AL 80 filled to 3,000 PSI will have about 77 cubic feet in it. (We think of it as 80, but it is less.)
  2. An HP 100 filled to 3,000 PSI will have roughly 80 cubic feet in it.
  3. An LP 85 filled to 3,000 wil have roughly 100 cubic feet in it.
  4. An LP 108 filled to 3,000 will have roughly 120 cubic feet in it.
 
Yes, but I am going to assume that your response indicates that as a new diver you don't understand the difference between PSI and volume. A cylinder has the advertised volume of air in it only when it is filled to its rated capacity. Fill it to different pressures and you get different volumes. To give you an illustration, let's see what happens if I fill 4 different cylinders to 3,000 PSI.

  1. An AL 80 filled to 3,000 PSI will have about 77 cubic feet in it. (We think of it as 80, but it is less.)
  2. An HP 100 filled to 3,000 PSI will have roughly 80 cubic feet in it.
  3. An LP 85 filled to 3,000 wil have roughly 100 cubic feet in it.
  4. An LP 108 filled to 3,000 will have roughly 120 cubic feet in it.
Yes you are correct in the assumption that I am not fully understanding the relation between PSI and volume and I should have been taking that into consideration from the start. I have to start using my brain sometimes lol
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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