Search results

Scubapro 108 Levers, there may be others.

This shows a DIN version of the R-100.

I just pulled this out of a retired Pre-98 Balanced piston. Looks pretty close to the one on the left but a lot more mileage.

The bolt on the left looks like it might be from a Oceanic pre-98 Balanced Piston or PX2. Can't recall seeing the one on the right.

The only real advantage of buying any of the MK5 clones is the heavier turret bolt. I personally have upgraded my MK5's to the VDH stainless turret bolts but could have saved the money if I bought a the TR400 because it has a MK10 style bolt.

Aqualung Pioneer from Parts Catalog available on frogkick.

I have a new S600 body I would sell. I believe there are two different generations and am not sure which one I have. I can list it on that online auction site if there is any interest.

They look like yours but yellowed from age. The part number could be wrong but the other TUSA parts I have all seem to have correct numbers.

I'm not sure what regulator they go to but I have some seats like that with TUSA part # 11075 X6.

I believe there were a few different versions of the MK5 DIN adapter.

I don't know anything about technical diving but for recreational diving looking good is rule #1 for me. Just about any regulator will do the job so it is important that your regulator makes you look like a Navy Seal. I look exactly like a Seal when I dive (with beer gut) and no one has ever...

I would generally agree but when buying a used regulator would prefer a 40 year old regulator with silicone over a 20 year old one with Cristolube. Silicone lube is just fine for most divers.

I have an old R190 cover that is missing most of the paint and a new purge button, but no spring. PM me if you have any interest.

For many Aqualung regulators the last few digits of part number is the o-ring size.

I know nothing about argon regulators but being as argon is a Nobel gas and 1/3 of the earth's atmosphere wouldn't any regulator work just fine ?

I am down to my last new spring and I think I will keep it but I replaced every spring in my MK5 / MK1 /Mk8 collection so I have a few good used ones.

The MK10 Plus and the MK20 had IP shims that went on the seat retainer. I think two was the max but not sure.

I sounds like you have the correct DIN retainers. The MK5 yoke bolt is designed to bear on the saddle. The circlip is there so the the DIN bolt will also. Later MK5's that came with a plastic saddle had a brass insert the allowed the saddle to take the torque load. The MK5 should not be used...

The best strategy for winning a auction cheap is to bid your max in the last 10 seconds. That said, you will lose about 50% because of minor distractions. Either way don't bid early and run the price up. Just the fact that you desire the item will bring in bidders that otherwise would just watch.