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Yes, definitively install a new O-ring if you change the battery yourself. We never, ever service a dive computer without replacing the O-ring.

@Wookie, Frank, next time your titanium Stinger needs to be serviced send it our way. We do have the tool to unscrew the pushbuttons and clean the usually rusted spring and lubricate. That's what makes it cranky. Worst case scenario, we can always use one of your wife's SS Stinger pushbutton...

@ScubaParrot, By the time I'm writing this, we've discussed your case over the phone and I helped you to get your Stinger back in Dive Mode. But for those other owners of Suunto Stingers that might run into a similar situation, I would suggest going into SET mode, scrolling through TIME, and...

The Aqualung i200 O-ring is 1.2mm(cs)x27.5mm(ID), durometer 70.

@Roberto Arango, Congratulations and thanks for sharing your secret! It will certainly be very useful in case a Companion in need of service ever lands on my bench in the future. Your scheme is very similar to the trick required to re-start the oil-filled Uwatec Aladins after replacing their...

@Zef, Spot on. We certainly have an Excel list including battery and O-ring specs for most of the computers that have been manufactured but that is part of the expertise we use when servicing a dive computer and for which we charge a fee. Nevertheless, several times we have disclosed the...

In case any member posting on this thread is interested in waterproofing to 160 feet a Suunto Eon/D5 tank POD we provide that service after servicing them, that is replacing the battery and the O-ring. The same waterproofing test is customarily performed on each and every dive watch or dive...

@green Fog, Thanks for the compliment. I'm not a watchmaker. I'm an electrical engineer by profession. But for the last 20 years, I've been exclusively servicing and repairing dive computers and dive watches. Along the road, I acquired a few skills, learned one or two tricks, and I guess ended...

The Dacor Darwin is, by today's standards, a relatively old Nitrox-capable dive computer. It was manufactured in Italy and I believe it was discontinued around 2012. It was the subject of a recall for Darwin Air serial # 3265 to 3415 and Darwin console serial # 8503 to 8592. Having said that, I...

@Green Frog, we might be able to help you service your Dacor computer. Which model do you have: OMNI, OMNI PRO, DARWIN (hope you don't have a MICRO BRAIN)? And what is the problem with it? Does it need a battery change or it's something else?

Glad you were able to remove the pins.

The correct O-ring specification for the Oceanic Geo, Geo2, Atom2 and Aeris Epic, Aeris Manta, F10, and F11, etc. is 1.2mmx27.5mm, durometer 70.

Other than Scubapro, I am not aware of anybody/party that services the UWATEC "Smart" series. We used to service the "older" UWATEC "brick type" (without infrared interface) dive computers but haven't serviced one of those in a long time.

liemi, you simply have to hammer out those pins. Caveat: you need the right pin removal tool and hold the computer in the right way to do this.

Tursiops is spot on. Lithium batteries don't leak.

1) Can you please share a picture of the display showing the "negative 2" at the top of the first log page? 2) Are there any other dives logged on the Stinger's logbook?

@ibj40, As I said in an earlier post, I'm not an expert in epoxy gluing properties. Since you already have one JB Weld product recommended for metal&plastic, I would stick would that. Good luck.

This is the JB Weld Epoxy we've used

@ibj40, Agree with @Johnoly. Carving some tiny grooves or irregularities in the plastic will give more grip to either the Superglue or 2 part epoxy, whichever you decide to use.

I wish you good luck. But If I was you, I would give it some additional time for curing. Not just the two hours probably indicated in the package. I would let the Super Glue cure for at least 12 hours at room temperature. Keep us posted.