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Sounds like fun!

Not sure if "clone" is the right word, but there are lots of hybrid Scubapro Mk's out there that have parts from 5 and 10.

I'm not an expert, but it's fairly common on these older regs for people to swap parts. I have a couple of early Mk5's which have the later heavy yoke and the fifth LP port on top. They work fine.

I've heard this "detuning" thing a couple times, but no one has been able to explain exactly what was involved in detuning. I've rebuilt a bunch of these, swapping internal parts freely, and I've never seen the slightest difference between nylon- and brass-bodied models with respect to design...

I've restored more than a dozen of these and have never encountered an internal part that was corroded. The only part that fails on these (in my experience) is the rubber seat on the needle valve. Some combination of heat and age can turn these seats into goo, as seen in some of the photos...

Good point, thanks------

Turns out you have parts there that could help you "tune" a Tekna regulator. I've long thought they were not adjustable, but: While playing with my collection a few days ago, I noticed that one seemed to crack easier than the others, with no obvious explanation. I started swapping parts, and...

I agree on tolerances. Very little room for error on these. And zero possibility of tuning---they work or they don't. It makes me suspect the yellow "prototypes" were specifically an attempt to allow tuning, as they do have some adjustability.

1. Bummer about the cannibalization. 2. Those small reddish "seal rings" are very thin and do tend to tear. I have a spare or two if you need one. 3. The internals on the yellow ones are exactly the same as the internals on my yellow one that I sold recently. Very rare, and, as you say, very...

Apparently Ralph Shamlian was adopted, and after finding his birth parents he changed his name to theirs: Osterhout.

Cool. The yellow one I had (sold recently) used a completely different mechanism inside---no tilt valve. I thought it might be a prototype or something. Please post pics as you go through these.

It looks like I got lucky and measured them correctly at 018, 017, and 010, according to the chart below.

Sorry, I forgot about the purge assembly. There's one o-ring there, measuring 1.32 x .07. I believe it's number 027 in the AS568 chart, but I'll let the experts weigh in.

Going by that chart, the closest I get is (left to right in the pic above) 018, 017 and 010. Actual measurements were: .76 x .075 .69 x .07 .26 x .06 Note: I only measured one set, and these are ~35 years old.

There are 3 o-rings, as shown below. Sizes are 22.7mm, 20.5mm and 9.75mm.

Every one of the plastic rings I had (4, maybe) broke. Definitely the weak point on the regulator. They did make plastic regulators with metal retaining rings, though, and I have a couple of those.

Yes, just crimped. Getting it off is harder to describe than do, but I'll try: 1. Put the needle in a vise horizontally, cushioned with hard rubber. 2. Hold a pair of pliers loosely on the needle, with the edge of the pliers touching the cup. 3. Use the hammer to hit the pliers so as to knock...

I DID IT!!! The answer to the valve seat riddle was so obvious it's painful. If you want to make a small custom donut-shaped regulator valve seat, why not start with.........a large regulator valve seat? Duh. I had a couple of spare seats from working on "standard" vintage regulators, and...

Sorry, I tried o-rings (too soft) and several epoxies (too hard). I'm guessing the original was some sort of fairly hard rubber. I have several working Tekna regulators and would be happy to sell them----not for a profit, just to recoup costs. Email bf@vstat.com if interested.

@AGH That might depend on who put it back together.........