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I had a different idea last night which might be simpler. What about putting a 5 mm alu or stainless steel plate on top of the lid and use that plate to fix the piezo's inplace using the supplied hexnut and o-ring. Plate would be glued to the lid using epoxy. JB Weld?

Thanks Lucca for your reply. 1. I'm using a normal pulse piezzo as it's attached to an Arduino microcontroller in which the code 'loop' is fast enough to detect any pushes. Basically, the Arduino code samples the input to which the piezzo is attached every ~10 ms. 2. I'm not sure if i...

Hi guys/girls, I got my hands on a nice acrylic lid (25mm / 1 inch thick) for a halcyon canister. Currently there is a regular mechanical switch installed which I want to replace with a more durable APEM piezo switch (IP69) (PBAR1AF2000). I hope you can help with a few questions. Can I...

First of all I really like the fact that the beam is adjustable, well done! But the lumens vs burntime seems a bit strange. A 5000mAh cell has about 18 watt (~3.7*5A) of power. With a burn of about 1.5 hr that means the emitter consumes more then 10W per hr for 350 lumens. That's only 35...

How many lumens? The website (OrcaTorch D720 long beam distance dive light for any divers) states 350 on the high setting but that looks like an error. With a 5000 mAh cell I expect atleast 1000 lumens for the runtime provided.

MrBlenny, maybe a heated shirt would be a better option then a bulky heated vest (in Europe Heizteufel, Yellow Diving or Smart-Tex would be good examples). @Michael, still happy with your Heizteufel shirt? Still without heated gloves?

Hi TooCold, Thanks for your reply. Making sure the battery can’t move won’t be a problem, I’m just not sure if the two Nielsen latches on the lid and canister are ok with holding the 2kg battery pack when the canister is upside down..

Hi, I'm putting a new Li-Ion battery pack (around 2KG / 4.5 LBS) inside an old Halcyon Pro 14 canister. There is a grove in the bottom that stops the battery from rotating but still allows it to slide up and down. Would the lid with regular latches be strong enough to keep it in place or do I...

I just did the math on 12V vs 16,8V with a 55W / 12V santi vest. With 12V and resistance of 2,6 Ohm it will output 55W drawing 4,6A. Plugging in 16,8 it goes to 108W drawing 6.46A. That will hurt! :gas: The heating wire will probably do some self current limiting I guess but still way to warm.

Thanks for all suggestions and tips guys. I did some measurements and I'm able to fit a LiFePO4 4S14P = 56 cells pack inside my Pro14 together with a BMS. This translates into a 300WH pack. With a nominal voltage of 12.8V this is ~24A and good enough to power a vest and gloves for about 3 hours...

I agree, to do this in a single step using a single PWM conversion (100% -> 12V / 80% -> 9.6V) be would ideal. However, I don't have the skills to build/design so a thing. What I can do is put a 12V regulator inside the canister and then add a pitkin or scaleo controller for stepping down the...

Inner dimensions about 29.5 x 11.5 CM and the 4S BMS 80x60x15 mm. I'm using a modular system called Nese: AMtech – AMtech I've used it to build a 7S14P Li-ION batterypack for my Suex 7, it rocks (when you have access to a fast&reliable 3d printer). 4P 18650 Nese module is 86x75x21 mm This is...

The 3.2 flat discharge curve is very good for a high stable heat output (4x3,2=12,8V). Unfortunately, I can only get 8 (3,2V,10A) Headway cells in the canister which translates to only 20AH. I tried fitting 18650 LiFePO4 but that also only gets me to about 240WH/20AH. Did I say I love the...

I think it is a small area to make a note on with a pen.

I'm not sure if I understand your question but this is the backside: More pictures in the url above.

Thanks for sharing that @kelemvor I like that I can adjust the output voltage on the Drok converter but it seems to be a lower efficiency Linear (vs Switching) regulator. I need 8-9 A continuously for the vest and gloves so efficiency/heat output really matters.

I like the arduino option, I'm going to look into that. However, I still hope someone has some info on dealing with heat generated by the inefficiencies of the regulator in a closed environment.

Already got an old pitkin controller laying around but once voltage < 12V there's no way to compensate for that (aside from using a 4S pack and dropping the voltage with a Pitkin controller, but that's a different option/discussion :wink: ). I'm basically trying to build a poor man's version of...

For people interested, Scaleo (based in Germany) has a controller that can be integrated in the drysuit inflation/thermo valve.

@The Chairman Can you enable my "Go Red" badge? Paypal cleared on 12-2