Search results

What are you surprised about here? AOW does not cover the entire specialty. AOW is basically an introduction to the 5 different specialties. The course material in the AOW manual and the instruction offered (and paid for) as part of an AOW course would not cover the curriculum of the 5 specialities.

I have the hollis weight pockets that get put on my bp/w when I'm diving in cold water and want the ditchable weight. Theyre easy to pop the pouches in and out of, etc. You could very easily gear up and then slide the weights in to avoid the floppy waste belt problem.

I have a d550 that goes with me on every single dive. It's been flawless. I need to try out a couple of those signal lights.

I use both the hollis st22 wing and their s38lx, depending on where I'm diving. I am very happy with both of them, although I can't say I have used a bunch of other brand wings to be able to compare.

Absolutely. No one is buying a $4000 mediocre depth gauge as a replacement for a real dive computer. It's more functional art that anything. At least the oris doesn't stop working when you shine a flashlight at it.

The oris depth gauge is a much cooler watch

https://meisterelite.com/products/meister-mesh-duffel-backpack-dive-bag-w-dry-pocket?_pos=1&_sid=35a2e4714&_ss=r Best duffel/backpack for gear I have found

With atomic, the only main differences between the models are the specific materials used. With the t3, you're getting a titanium 1st stage, so it's more resistant to corrosion and a bit lighter, but that's the main advantage you're getting. With the st1, the first stage is stainless steel. For...

They're definitely pushing you down a path that benefits them more than you. I like atomic regs. I have a couple z2s and b2s. I think the T3 is a really cool reg, and if I won the lottery, I'd probably buy one just cause. But there's nothing really practically different between a b2 and a t3 in...

You might consider shopping for a new dive shop if they're trying to tell you that as a new diver you need a T3 or that regular spgs break after a few uses. All the gear you've listed are fantastic items that'll be of next to no benefit over more reasonable choices for a new diver.

And sometimes the salesman at the RollsRoyce dealer tries to convince the freshly licensed 16 year old that they'll die instantly if they get behind the wheel of a Honda civic.

is the best option I have found

What is it about those specific items that made you choose them? It sounds like you are going out of your way to find the most expensive components you can find. Why do you want an atomic t3 over a b2, for example? Why a proplus 2 instead of a regular spg?

If you're going to be co-curing metal into the slots, interlaminary titanium is a much better option than aluminim

There are two kinds of countries in the world... those that use metric and those that have put a man on the moon. No one mention that NASA did their work in metric and then converted to imperial for the astronauts.

I bought a lightly used Sony a6000, a sea frogs housing, some lightly used Strobes, etc and am into it for around $1200

Paint the wood with flex seal. Seriously. If you're going to put a piece of plywood cut to size in, and need to add some ribs for stiffness, might as well space them to make good roll stops for the tanks.

You don't have to be holding it to your face. If the gear is sitting on the ground and the spg is facing you, it's still going to hurt if it's 3 feet away just sitting there rather than 18" away because someone is holding it and watching it to see what the pressure is.

What I was trained wasn't to turn it away, it was to point it to the ground.

As a pure anecdote, I was taught this during my ow course 25 years ago. While setting up my gear at the pool for the pool session, I did what I was told, aimed the spg face to the pool deck, pressurized the reg, and promptly shot the glass off the front of the spg as it failed, exactly as...