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Yes I did. I had ended up adding an extra gasket between the original gasket and the dry suit. I created a "new" gasket using a piece of rubber from a tire inner tube.

Nothing has really changed. Buying these lights remains a gamble - sometimes they last long and sometimes they stop working after only a few dives. Considering the cost i'm happy with this trade off...just make sure you have spares!

Awesome that works great...I tried doing it without referring to the manual....that would have been impossible to ever discover :D

Ok i cannot manage to find the option. Anyone can point me in the right direction?

allow automatic setpoint changes at specified depths in CCR mode Finally! This is an amazing change!

I did not miss your point, I was just simply saying that there are a number of variables which may make the test a little unreliable and unnecessary. However I might have been somewhat biased by the fact that on my unit, the ADV diaphragm is a very good indicator of the negative test state...

I question the reliability and effectiveness of this. Some issues I can see: Cell readings change with age, so you will need to find new targets as this happens Loop might not be filled with pure air, so you will need to make sure it is flushed correctly with air to get the same mV readings...

Are you basing that on experience or by the specs provided by the manufacturer?

Dry suit is the only option. You can make a dry suit progressively warmer by adding more under garments and battery powered heating. This is not really an option with your budget (100-300). A good drysuit will be around 2k and a budget drysuit will be around 1k. You will also need to add...

I usually leave a negative test going overnight and until I actually get to the dive site. If you have a very small leak, this will detect it over several hours - much more effective compared to a 5 minute test.

Has anyone ever used these lights and the XTAR D36? I'm interested to know how much better (if) the XTAR is.

I usually stick my foot out the side of the boat and go (doggy style? :rolleyes:). No one seems to complain.

Don't go the dive platform until you are actually ready to jump in. It is very annoying when people rush to the platform to jump in first, but they still have straps and stuff to adjust .... holding up all the boat.

I did manage to get some spare switches by complaining on ebay. They sent me a couple after I requested a refund for the lights. I have never found them for sale separately unfortunately. One option to prolong the life is too remove the red/blue LED switch (because who uses those anyways??)...

They definitely are. The funny thing is that they put 2/3 o-rings in the main body, but then they put a single O-ring on the switch. The cir-clip holding the switch shaft in place, almost always ends up rusty from even the slightest water ingress. The switches then start sticking.

Is the strap long enough to go round a drysuit? Edit: I'm dumb, I just re-read your post!

After giving this some more thought, the forward voltage of a white LED (>~3.2V) will always be higher than the "safe" voltage of a 18650 lithium ion battery(>~3V). As such, in theory at least, if you drive the LEDs directly, the batteries should be unable to drain to a dangerous level. You will...

Fair point. I know that mine have the circuit just because you can see the round PCB if you peel the battery wrapper. I have no idea whether the circuit cuts off or not to be honest... but with that being said, I don't know if the original torch circuit had a cutoff either. The lights typically...

Try closing the go pro in an air-conditioned room before you go diving.

The batteries have their own built in protection circuit. Although if i'm completely honest i'm not sure if there are any concerns i should be aware of. I also don't use these torches as life support equipment, they are purely for video work - so if they fail, no real issue. All I can say is...