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Same here, but with the pool noodles around the pvc.

BC inflator hoses have a valve in the quick disconnect that will close when it's disconnected.

I have to disagree with that, I did Dos Ojos with a dive shop out of Playa del Carmen (can't remember the name right now), and we definitely left the cavern zone.

This thing was clearly designed by an art student, not a diver or engineer of any kind.

Hand feeding something that looks like one of your fingers to any wild animal is generally a bad idea.

Well, after a summer full of work and bad weather, I finally had a chance to take this housing on a test dive (without the cam in it). Went to 80 feet with no leaks. Will try with the cam this weekend!

You need a timer, depth gauge, and tank pressure gauge on every dive (unless your in a pool I guess). If you happen to use a computer for that, then you need a computer on every dive.

Yeah, that makes sense. I was thinking more along the lines of quick shallow dives while snorkling.

The problem with freediving during your surface interval is not accumulating more nitrogen, the problem is the rapid ascent. If you still have the residual nitrogen from the scuba, but you're not doing a slow ascent at the end of the freedive like you would on scuba, you could have problems.

I sling mine, and leave it on. The valve is within eyesight so I'm not worried about it leaking without me noticing.

Even you acknowledged in your first post in this thread that an old dog can learn new tricks, so I don't understand the hostility here at all. The whole point of this thread is that you can do something 'just fine' for many years and still find out there's room for improvement. The computer is...

You don't need to focus on it any more than you have to focus on a timer/spg/depth gauge. The point is that it will keep track of things that happened when you were focused on other things, and let you look afterwards and realize you have room for improvement. If that hurts anyone's ego, then...

Water can also get into the tank if there's water in the valve when you are connecting the first stage.

Don't worry Tom, I won't sue. :)

Finally started working on this. Routing the top hat shape was much easier (and messier) than I expected. I'll post some pics when it's done. Went with this design, but in a 3" tube. The cam fits so perfect it doesn't even need any internal supports (but I might add a single rail to prevent...

Their story is complete BS. 2 hours? They were at the surface next to their boat. You don't fight a shark for 2 hours unless you're trying to kill it. If survival was their concern, they could have gotten out of the water.

Here's a quick sketch of the other idea I mentioned. Instead of the top hat shaped lens, it's just a simple 1/2" disk, and the o-ring is restrained by a pvc ring glued into the main tube.

Without any restraint on the inner edge of the o-ring, won't it get pushed into the case? The bit around the outer edge will be exposed to the full external pressure.

3/4" is a bit thick but 1/2" would leave it thin at the edges if it's cut to that shape. I'm not doing any controls in this first housing, just going to record the whole dive and edit afterwards.

Came up with an easier design that doesn't need the 'top hat' cut for the acrylic, which will be much easier to cut but still has only the o-rings as potential leaks. I'll draw up plans tonight.