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1960 DA Aquamaster

Discussion in 'Vintage Equipment Diving' started by reddiver970, May 8, 2015.

  1. Nemrod

    Nemrod Solo Diver

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    Yes, indeed, please flip the regulator so that the Vee formed by the hoses points/opens upwards. Your regulator is upside down! The hoses are intended to route up and over the shoulders, thus the orientation is correct when the horns point upwards to the shoulders. This makes sense when you understand that double hose divers wear their tanks much lower than is fashionable today (except for me who could care less).

    [​IMG]

    N
     
  2. Tug

    Tug ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

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    I agree with everything Herman said and since I'm bored at work and have time to kill on the overnight shift, here is a handy shopping list :)

    Service Kit - $25
    HPR Second Stage - $50
    Single Stage/HPR 2nd Stage Diaphragm - $20
    Band Clamp - $15
    Duckbill Eliminator - $15
    Yellow Hoses - $48.95
    Mouthpiece - $25
    Mouthpiece Valves - $8

    This brings you to a total of $206.95

    You also might need a HP Seat ($15)

    I'd also check out Hermans tools. I started servicing a few of my regulators and then borrowed some of his tools from my friend and it make it much simpler. While not necessary, they certainly are helpful if you think you'll be buying more double hose regulators... (I think VDH might rent them as well)
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2015
    DaleC and Luis H like this.
  3. herman

    herman Divemaster

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Raleigh,North Carolina
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    I would add to Lewis's list, hose clamps (those are the old varity and tend to be brittle)$5 and a LP adapter for the hookah port so you can have an octo or LP inflator supply....and a place to check IP.
    Mouth pieces are a personal choice as long as you don't care if the reg is correct looking. The straight one is correct for that reg but it is too large to suit me. I prefer the curved one and on the regs I dive a lot I use the Voit hourglass one, IMO it is the most comfortable.

    Rebuilding these regs is not hard but you might want to consider having Bryan do it the first time. That way you will have a perfectly working one so you understand what diving a well tuned DH is like.
     
    Tug likes this.
  4. Luis H

    Luis H Instructor, Scuba

    # of Dives: I'm a Fish!
    Location: Maine
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    Nice post. That is very helpful.


    The HP seat that you link to is for a RAM, not a DA Aqua Master. That one would work on a Cyclone or Phoenix. VDH also has the seats for the Aqua Master.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2015
    Tug likes this.
  5. DaleC

    DaleC Solo Diver

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Leftcoast of Canada
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    Nice reg. The advice about flipping the reg is important, not just for aesthetics but for performance. If you read older dive books to learn how to clear flooded hoses they will describe rolling to the right, to move the water out the exhaust valve. Up side down, you will be trying to vent out the intake (kinda hard). It is not hard to learn to dive a double hose (I think of it as learning to use a stick instead of automatic transmission) but there are a few tricks to it.

    I would also consider the Yoke. Is it short or long and whether you want to change it. If it is long all is good, you can buy a banjo adapter for your SPG. If it is short you have several options. You can dive it as is, using the J valve method. You can try to find an old Dacor valve that has an SPG port right in the valve. Or you can swap out the yoke for a long one.

    ---------- Post added May 9th, 2015 at 08:13 AM ----------

    I see this list as a sliding scale of sorts, depending on how far down the rabbit hole one wants to go replacing things.


    • Service kit is a need.
    • HPR kit is a want (you can dive fine without one).
    • Hookah an Banjo adapters and long yoke may be a need/want, depending on how you dive.
    • Diaphragm need/want depending on condition (if it's good and pliable it will work, though some may find easier WOB with the new silicone ones).
    • Band clamp is really really convenient want if you dive it a lot. I don't think anyone ever regrets buying one.
    • DBE is a very convenient want. The duckbill valves will work but after replacing a couple you've paid for the DBE and with it you don't need to worry any more.
    • Hoses are a want/need, depending on condition. I have both new hoses (Mistral) and old (DAAM) and replace as needed.
    • Mouthpiece is a want. Yes the curved fits better but I dive my Mistral with a straight no problem so if money was an issue I would put this low on the list.
    • Mouthpiece valves are a need, they get brittle, are cheap and help keep the breathing loop from flooding.

    So, if the reg and parts were in fair condition I would replace the parts in this order:


    • Service kit
    • mouthpiece valves
    • Band clamp
    • Hookah/banjo/long yoke (unless you are diving vintage techniques).
    • Diaphragm
    • Hoses
    • DBE
    • Mouthpiece
    • HPR
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2015
  6. Tug

    Tug ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

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    thanks for catching that! I suppose I should have had more coffee last night. I just fixed the link in my post
     
  7. halocline

    halocline Solo Diver

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    If you've never used a doublehose, you're in for a treat if you get this one working well. To me there's a big difference in performance between the DA aquamaster and the royal aquamaster 1st stage, so rather than put too much money (yoke, banjo, hookah port adapter) into this first stage, consider going right for the phoenix nozzle. It solves all the port problems, adds a HP yoke, and gives you the much better balanced 1st stage. To me that's a better investment, especially if you are going to add the expense of new silicone hoses and other rubber parts.

    If you are determined to start simply by getting it dive-able, which is not at all a bad idea, get just a rebuild kit and a duckbill, maybe mouthpiece valves, then you can try it and see how you like doublehose diving. If you like it, then go for the phoenix, high performance 2nd stage, hoses, mouthpiece, etc....

    You would just have to dive it without a SPG or LP inflator. But you can easily go on some shallow shore dives (even pool) without those to see how you like it.
     
  8. reddiver970

    reddiver970 PADI Pro

    # of Dives: I'm a Fish!
    Location: Fort Collins, Colorado, United States
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    Thanks to everyone for the replies. I bought this a few days ago and haven't had a chance to really play with it yet. I gave the guy $30 bucks through it in the backseat of my car and took it home. Pretty funny the reg is on upside down!!
    Originally I thought I would just resell this but after reading these posts it makes me want to dive it. I learned to dive with no LP inflator or SPG and a scubapro horse collar BCD...so this sounds like fun!!
     
  9. Diverdon

    Diverdon Barracuda

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Marquette,MI
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    Let me know if you'd like to double your money real quick :wink:

    Good for you!

    DD
     
    reddiver970 likes this.
  10. duckbill

    duckbill Solo Diver

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    Probably just needs cleaning, hoses, mouthpiece valves, and a duckbill. It's a good idea to install a new second stage poppet, or at least flip the soft seat if needed. Should cost $100 or less to bring it back to servicable condition if you do the work yourself. And if you get another U.S.Divers double hose regulator down the road, it wouldn't even cost that much, as you can use one set of hoses for both.
     

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