3D printing...

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Yeah, I have the most issues with ABS, but it's also a better parts material than PLA. I did enclose mine, and that's helping, but I'm not there yet.
I did enclosed mine, but still issues with ABS warping.
 
I wouldn't know where to begin to enclose my Tornado. That would be one big-ass box.
Thanks to growth in the marijuana industry, mylar lined grow tents are readily available for cheap these days on ebay and other chinese import sites. They look like they'd make perfect enclosures.
 
I guess I finally controlled warping.
A lot of teaks. Enclosure. Cura config (nozzle to 245 °C and Build plate to 110 °C, lower speed, no slice fan, etc). Printing over the OEM flexible build plate with hear spray to improve adherence.
So far so good. I will wait for PETG.
 
I got my new plate today and installed it. It took me a while to level her out, but I got there and set it to 0.008" (0.2mm) and mega fail...

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There was absolutely no adhesion. Wow. The guys at the Gainesville Hackerspace really helped me out. The default layer height in Cura was set to 0.1mm, which is only half of the initial clearance. I was trying to print in air! I reset the layer height to 0.2mm, sliced it again and sent it to print. Wow. It's doing better: much better, Did I just see something flutter? Plink, plop and the little tug lost it's moorings. Crap. I made it past the first layer though and that's progress.

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Better, but the adhesion is just not there and I've been using Aquanet every time. I'm about to reduce the clearance to 0.006" (0.15mm) and the guys keep telling me to use a sheet of paper. "What weight?" "Normal" Rly? Can't someone give me a dimension? I hate the paper method: I want to use feeler gauges. One guy says he thinks a sheet of paper is about 0.1mm. Rly? I grab a micrometer out of the shop, clean it up (I haven't seen it in 18 months) and measure a "normal" sheet of paper. Holy schmoly: it's just a teensy bit under 0.004" which is 0.1mm. It only took a few minutes to reduce the clearance to 0.004" and I hit print again. Success! But, apparently it's the wrong benchy! :D :D :D

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So, I have the salmon skin that's so common. I've ordered the stepping motor smoothers to deal with that. But, I made it through the whole print without it popping off the bed. Amazon is having a one day deal, so I'll have the smoothers tomorrow. :D :D :D In the mean time, I'm going to try a more challenging print. One of my own designs; a battery box (I think)
 
I do a LOT of printing with ABS on a TAZ 6. Here is the setup I like, your layer height should be about 120% of your nozzle diameter. So if your nozzle is .3mm then set to .36mm, MagiGoo on amazon is the bed adhesive you can get, and lasts forever. Your parts will not lift if you use this, yet when your parts are done and it cools it slides right off the bed without prying. Lower your print speed, the slower the better especially with your first few layers. On average my first layers print at 30mmS, excruciatingly slow but well worth it. If you get an enclosure, get a few of the automatic fire extinguishers off of amazon. They are made to go above your stove in case of a fire, well why not put one in your enclosure. It just gives a little piece of mind knowing something is there and I am not paying 100% attention.
 
Apologies to all if this has already been covered. . .

Has anyone printed a cap for a COOTWO with a hole for an inflator nozzle? I know the DiveNav guys sell these, but their price seems excessively high
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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