70's/80's vintage SCubaPro mk5 first 109 sscond - worth keeping?

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If you don't mind using an octo-inflator like an Air 2, you can get by with just 2 LP ports. I think you should only consider this if you already use that config though.

Although most of the time I will always recommend the DIY route, in this case having the 109 done by a SP tech may have some advantages. This is only if you KNOW the tech is competent.

I hadn't thought of the octo/inflator idea, it'd be a good solution if the octo-inflator wasn't such a bad idea to begin with.:wink: But, good thinking.

The statement in bold is the crux of the problem. More and more I believe that the 'standard' of regulator service at many LDSs is simply not worth paying for. Maybe I'm wrong, and there certainly are lots of good regulator techs out there, but it's a major crap shoot, and you have no way of knowing until you bring the reg in. Then it comes back with a scratch in the journal for the HP o-ring, or over-torqued turret retainer, or simply some story about how the 2nd stage can't be rebuilt because the guy doesn't have any idea about lever/poppet compatibility.

Any 'profession' where the required training consists of one or two days......well, you get the idea.
 
My friend still has the reg but she promised she'd give it back soon, so sorry for the delay on the pics.
I do have some pics of the US Divers reg though - it looks like the second was made in 77 and the first in 74, if I'm reading the serial numbers correctly.
Also, its actually a Calypso iv , not a Conshelf, my bad :doh:
I haven't taken this one diving in a couple years, so maybe I'll try checking this one out by myself too.
in the meantime, I did order the Vince harlow book, but it looks like he's on vacation till Sept. 5, so hopefully by the week after I'll be reading his book. I hope to get me reg back by then too, so I'll post those pics as soon as I can.
DG


DSC_3469.jpgDSC_3470.jpgDSC_3471.jpgDSC_3472.jpg
 
I just managed to put my hands on these goodies (R109 if I am right,
the owner didn't know):
scp109all.jpg

Interestingly one has black, the other has yellowish diaphragm. The black rubber diaphragm looks perfect,
however the yellowish one feels a bit weak (no cracks though). As for the other parts: is this a balanced
version?

Should I worry about corrosion?:

scp109c.jpg?
Is it possible to clear the cupper oxide from the brass surface and somehow cover it
again with chromium? (I tried 100% acetic acid then hot water, it didn't help)
Brass supposed to be quite resistant to corrosion...
 
They are both the standard non-balanced 109's.
The parts needed to convert to the Balanced Adjustable 156 are already posted earlier in this thread.
I wouldn't worry too much about the corrosion it really doesn't cause any problems and you can't see it when it's all back together :)
Scubapro didn't do chrome as well as some of the others of the area, bit surprising as I always thought Healthways was one of the better chrome platers (along with Sherwood).......best was/is US Divers, and weakest (amongst the big boys) Mares/AMF/Voit and Scubapro.
 
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That doesn't look that bad, you should see some of awap's 109s. The remaining green verdigris will come off with more soaking in vinegar, or a cycle through the ultrasonic cleaner if you have access to one.

You can re-chrome them, it's a matter of finding someone to do an excellent job. It's not cheap, and it won't do anything for the performance of the reg.

As far as the diaphragms go, I haven't seen a black one in a long time, usually on older G250s. Someone probably replaced it. The yellow silicone looks original. I've almost never had to replace one, maybe one in 20 or so. The rubber diaphragm covers are often in bad shape, but you can get them from SP dealers unless they're real dickheads. (oops, I meant to say, hardworking professionals concerned about our well-being)

You might need new levers when you change to the new poppets. It seems to be a bit random, but for sure the newest version of the lever works great with the s-wing poppet.
 
You can purchase a new exhaust tee and/or diaphragm cover here:
Shop Online
 
If you want to upgrade the 109 to balanced adjustable bigfoot-daisy put a lot of stuff on ebay today. It includes the kit's with the s-wing poppets, springs, levers, diaphragms.

VDH still has aftermarket purge covers available. One guy on ebay has also put 10 NOS satin finish cases for 109 and 156.

I just have rebuild one 156 and converted 109 to 156 using s-wing poppets. I tested them yesterday and my dive buddy says they breath easier than his G250V :) It's just his 250 is down tuned of cause. Those paired with 2 MK17s have completed my cold water winter setup.
 
It seems, this kit has almost everything I need (o-rings, poppet - thus my reg will become balanced!).

I'll add a new diaphragm as well. Regarding corrosion: yes, there is hope:)

As for the exhaust valve: how can I remove it from the metal housing, without destroying the exhaust diaphragm? The rubber pads are quite worn off, I'd like to get new ones.

If you want to upgrade the 109 to balanced adjustable bigfoot-daisy put a lot of stuff on ebay today. It includes the kit's with the s-wing poppets, springs, levers, diaphragms.

VDH still has aftermarket purge covers available. One guy on ebay has also put 10 NOS satin finish cases for 109 and 156.

I just have rebuild one 156 and converted 109 to 156 using s-wing poppets. I tested them yesterday and my dive buddy says they breath easier than his G250V :) It's just his 250 is down tuned of cause. Those paired with 2 MK17s have completed my cold water winter setup.
 
You also nee a new spring besides the kit. Some people say if you are unlucky you will need a new lever but all my levers from 109 worked fine.
You can use a G250 main diaphragm to replace the original as per the answers to my topic that I put recently.

VDH sells reproduction exhaust valves so you can get a new one.
 
You will need a new spring too.
The blue exhaust mushrooms are quite durable.....getting them back in is more tricky than getting them out.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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