A few pics of a singles Hog rig for cold water

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I am also using the tank trim pockeks like you do. But, the P-weight is way to go....
You can get DR 8lb P-weight (11 inch centered) that is good for a single and/or a double set.

Stephen Ash:
Steel cylinders are another great way to go. I do not have any...but that's a long story. I really like the P-weight, too. I have not yet made one and I was kinda hoping that FredT would get back up and running so that I could get one from him...but apparently that's not going to be an option for a long time.
 
cebudiver:
Does anyone have more pictures of a Hog Rig? On another note what is the difference between HOG and DIR?

Cebu,

The topic of this thread is 'single cylinder hog rigs for cold water use'. I'd like to keep it focused on that issue. If others would like to post photos of their rig, that's fine. But I would appreciate it if we would limit those photos to single cylinder rigs that are especially useful for higher weight requirement conditions.
 
Stephen Ash:
Cebu,

The topic of this thread is 'single cylinder hog rigs for cold water use'. I'd like to keep it focused on that issue. If others would like to post photos of their rig, that's fine. But I would appreciate it if we would limit those photos to single cylinder rigs that are especially useful for higher weight requirement conditions.


I'll bring the camera out for my sunday dive then :D

Definitely a cold water rig! I appreciate this focus, since most of the topics in Scubaboard are warm water focused. (What the heck is Consumel, really??!)
 
Here's another rig that I find useful for cold water situations. I use it when I need 15 to 25 pounds. The backplate is a FredT 9 pounder and the STA...also a FredT...weighs 6 pounds. The can light is a little under 2 pounds negative. I can also add a weight belt with up to 8 pounds, if needed.

The wing is an Agir Blackbird with 32 pounds lift and is an inner bladder/ outer shell design. I put it in this pic so that this rig would be a little different than the one I posted in my first series of photos... but I'm starting to like this wing...a lot! The reg is another Apeks DS4 with standard DIR hose lengths and a Uwatec Master Diver SPG. In the first photo I included my Sandroff 21W 9ah cannister light and a pair of Halcyon scouts. The next few photos show the FredT STA and plate...yep...pretty hefty buggers! Hopefully, FredT will get back on his feet so that his gear will once again be available...I sure want one of his twelve pound plates.
 
What are the advantages of a HOG rig? I honestly don't know waht a true HOG rig is, as witnessed by my double bladder redundancy comment. I was used to dry suits and now in warm water, think a redundant bladder is nice on the deeper dives.

Apparently the Hogarthian method doesn't like that but please explain why...I'm here to learn.

boogey
 
boogeywoogey:
What are the advantages of a HOG rig? I honestly don't know waht a true HOG rig is, as witnessed by my double bladder redundancy comment. I was used to dry suits and now in warm water, think a redundant bladder is nice on the deeper dives.

Apparently the Hogarthian method doesn't like that but please explain why...I'm here to learn.

boogey

Boogey,

Please do a search or post your question in a separate thread. I'm trying to keep this one on topic.

Thanks.
 
Regarding this last series of photos, I apologize for the cluttered look of the rig in the first shot. It is difficult to show it cleanly with all the gear attached without a model to wear it.

The FredT plate and STA combo looks a bit like it's a rig on steroids but it actually is not that bad. At first glance it looks like the STA would add too much set back making reaching the valve difficult. Actually, it only adds about a half an inch more than a standard Halcyon plate and STA. Of course, that half inch may be all that it takes to prevent reaching the valve but it's not a problem for me.
 
boogeywoogey:
What are the advantages of a HOG rig? I honestly don't know waht a true HOG rig is, as witnessed by my double bladder redundancy comment. I was used to dry suits and now in warm water, think a redundant bladder is nice on the deeper dives.

Apparently the Hogarthian method doesn't like that but please explain why...I'm here to learn.

boogey

A proper Hog rig is balanced to the point that you can swim it up in the event that the wing is breaks. Basically, if you can't swim a single tank wing up to the surface with no air in the wing you are either 1.) way overweighted 2.) really, really out-of-shape.

All the double bladder arguements really revolve around double rigs, not singles. Unless you are diving some huge steel singles, the debate really has no place here. And, I would suggest that there is no (good) reason to dive HUGE steel singles. If you have a decent SAC even an hp100 (which is neutral when empty) should give you tons of bottom time if you are shallow. And if you are diving deep, you should really be running doubles anyways.

Stephen: How does this rig trim out for you? When I used to dive a similar kit I always had the STA at the very top/crown of the tank - you seem to be a few inches down.
 
MASS-Diver:
Stephen: How does this rig trim out for you? When I used to dive a similar kit I always had the STA at the very top/crown of the tank - you seem to be a few inches down.


John, I don't think that I have problems with trim in this rig... it feels good... and vids and photos confirm.

I set it so that I can reach my valve and leave it at that. Within reason, the position of the STA relative to the cylinder doesn't seem to affect trim all that much for me. Perhaps, this is because I use Al tanks and not steels... or maybe I just don't notice the small change in trim and sorta subconsciously or automatically compensate for it with leg and arm extension... I don't know. Also, most of the time when I use this particular setup I also wear a weightbelt of 6 to 8 pounds which would help to counter the high tank position.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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