ABS Pipe for Housings?

[dave4868]

I'm only curious because there's always an operating pressure and a bursting pressure..I figure 100fsw is closer to 60psi, though I may have the math wrong. Just to keep it safe I want an operating pressure over 100psi, and a bursting pressure higher than that. I don't want to cut it close with a $500 camera inside..As for the window, I may not even put one on. I'm using it with a bullet cam, so I'm just going to run a wire through a gland like a canister light to the external camera and just use the actual camcorder as a recording medium

Since you already have the 4" ABS and might not be able to get PVC cheap, I'd suggest you go ahead and build the housing and pressure-test it empty until you're satisfied it won't fail. I'd test it to about twice the expected working pressure for piece of mind. A big pressure pot might not be around, but maybe you've got some deep water nearby....

I agree with (pdh) Paul's statement that crush pressure strength will be different than burst pressure strength.

(By the way, very nice page of homemade housings, Paul!)

Out of curiosity, Cheetah223, why aren't you using the optics of the video camera itself? Not working or not sensitive enough in low light?

Dave C

 

[CuriousRambler]

The main reason I'm using the helmet camera instead of the video camera itself is because I have it. I bought the helmet camera before I went to Iraq so I could have video on patrol and during raids and such and not have to worry about fumbling with a camera at all. It worked well in that environment, and it's (supposedly) waterproof to 100ft. I'll be among the first to admit that I've still got plenty to deal with just diving, so at least for now I don't want to add handling a camera to the equation..

 

[dave4868]

The main reason I'm using the helmet camera instead of the video camera itself is because I have it. I bought the helmet camera before I went to Iraq so I could have video on patrol and during raids and such and not have to worry about fumbling with a camera at all. It worked well in that environment, and it's (supposedly) waterproof to 100ft. I'll be among the first to admit that I've still got plenty to deal with just diving, so at least for now I don't want to add handling a camera to the equation..

First, I feel indebted to you for your service! You have my deepest respect and appreciation!

Regarding waterproof ratings, they're often "static" ratings which may be significantly better than the actual failure potential under dynamic conditions.

If you want to "bullet proof" your bullet camera, you might make a separate housing for it out of 2" PVC like the one I made for my towed/drop camera (see image below).

Dave C

 

[helimvee]

Paul, very nice work on the website and the housings. When do you find time to dive?

What kind of RC are you in to? I was flying a heli, until I discovered flying (scuba) underwater.

-Andrew

 

[pdh]

Paul, very nice work on the website and the housings. When do you find time to dive?

What kind of RC are you in to? I was flying a heli, until I discovered flying (scuba) underwater.

-Andrew

Planes and Helis when I get the time. I'm also building the scratch 1/8 Tiger tank which will be fully RC - follow the links.

I don't watch much TV and I have a heater in my shed - that leaves cold nights to make stuff and go diving at the weekends Current project is also a very fast DPV - Think X-scooter or Gavin. 10" diameter thick wall PVC pipe (only because it was free - ABS would do ) - 24 volts - 750 watts - electronic speed control. It should get to 100 metres if I'm lucky. Cost is around $600 so 1/10 the price of buying one. I'll post some pics once it's done.

P.

 

[Old Skool Diver]

I would not reccomend ABS. In the early 70"s, I worked at Bamboo Reef in San Francisco. Al Gidding built housings there from aluminum and PVC. The ABS is too brittle. Order 2 feet of PVC online or go to a plumbing store. We also used to cut dome ports from the dome of a ships compass ( they weren't electronic then). If you can find one, just cut it on a band saw. Far better than a flat port.

 

[pranam]

HI
i'm just novice in underwater video filming, so i build my own 4" video housing using PVC 40, even added my dive lilghts it works great till now, So i been thinking HOW could add some MECHANICAL controls in it, ikelite parts had been extremely difficult to get.
Thanks for help

 

[gert7to3]

Here's an ABS plumbing spec sheet:

www.nibco.com/assets/ABSGUIDE.pdf

A google seach on ABS plastic fire properties turned up a yahoo post that said:

"The aging characteristics of the polymers are largely influenced by the polybutadiene content, and it is normal to include antioxidants in the composition. On the other hand, while the cost of producing ABS is roughly twice the cost of producing polystyrene, ABS is considered superior for its hardness, gloss, toughness, and electrical insulation properties. However, it will be degraded (dissolve) when exposed to acetone. ABS is flammable when it is exposed to high temperatures, such as a wood fire. It will "boil", then burst spectacularly into intense, hot flames.

So if you keep your oven below the ignition point of wood, you'll be ok.

Instead of trying to heat shrink a boss made of ABS around your housing body, why not just cut off the end of a PVC end cap and use the remaining band?

 

[CuriousRambler]

Awesome, thanks for the heads up gert, it covered the idea of heating it for sure, the link says it self ignites over 800*, so I'd definitely be in the clear to take it up to a couple hundred to mold it, but you also make a very good point about just hacking up an end cap and using it instead of stretching the pipe on my own. This is why I love having access to other people's minds

 

[Couv]

Just an interesting tid bit. I just looked at one of my store bought dive lights (Underwater Kinetics) and the info placard reads, "Lexan/ABS Construction."