Added weight pockets to my Halcyon Carbon Fiber Backplate

[Streydog]

Just dive with an op that uses steel tanks so you don't need any weights.

 

[Yellowdog]

FYI - I was trying to get the weight as close to the backplate as possible. I use an STA with this plate so if I use weight pockets on the cam band the weights end up a bit higher than I want them. Not a big deal but this was a way to get the weight directly on the plate. As far as ditchable weight I plan to divide weight with 1/2 on the plate and 1/2 on my waist belt. Diving it tomorrow so I will know more soon.

 

[happy-diver]

Great job Yellowdog, thing about armchairs is they don't have wriststraps

 

[gr8jab]

why not position the pockets on top of the double slot where the waist belt goes through the plate? Let the waist belt go through the plate, through the trim pocket loop, then back out to the front of the plate.

I was wondering if I could put 4 small pockets on the backplate, one in each corner where the webbing passes through as you've described. It would allow trimming toward head or feet, which is something I like. And it would keep the weight lower (when horizontal), increasing stability compared to cam bands. However, I figured the weight pocket strap would be wider than the gaps in the backplate and therefor not fit.

Could go minimal and using bungees in each corner where the webbing goes through the backplate, as @АлександрД and @The Chairman sometimes do on shoulder straps.

Of course, still have to have some ditchable weights too, as many have pointed out.

 

[stuartv]

I was wondering if I could put 4 small pockets on the backplate, one in each corner where the webbing passes through as you've described. It would allow trimming toward head or feet, which is something I like. And it would keep the weight lower (when horizontal), increasing stability compared to cam bands. However, I figured the weight pocket strap would be wider than the gaps in the backplate and therefor not fit.

Could go minimal and using bungees in each corner where the webbing goes through the backplate, as @АлександрД and @The Chairman sometimes do on shoulder straps.

Of course, still have to have some ditchable weights too, as many have pointed out.

I'm going to try mounting my trim pockets on the lower slots (for the shoulder strap/waist belt junction). Worst case, I could see cutting a pair of slits in the back of the weight pocket, to match the spacing of the BP slots.

As for ditchable weights, I have never used any. With a single tank, and if you're correctly weighted, the only way I would foresee being too heavy to swim up is if you're in really thick neoprene, so you lose a lot of buoyancy at depth, and you're diving a really big tank (like a 120 or 130 or something).

A 120 has ~9#s of gas in it. So, if you're correctly weighted, you'd start your dive 9# negative at the surface. If you lose 10# of buoyancy from your neoprene at depth, and your wing TOTALLY blows out, you'd have to swim up 19# of weight. Fortunately, as you ascend, your neoprene uncompresses and it gets easier to swim up, the further you ascend.

Personally, I generally only dive a single tank in places where it's not that cold. At most, I'd be in a 5mm. I'm pretty sure I can swim my rig up in a 5mm, even with a 120 for my tank. If it's too cold for the 5mm, I'm diving dry and then I can use the suit for buoyancy if the wing totally blows out.

 

[hilljo88]

I use the weighted STA with a single alu tank. Distributes the weight nicely down the center of my rig. I usually need just a few more pounds of ditchable weight with a 3 mil.

 

[gr8jab]

I use the weighted STA with a single alu tank. Distributes the weight nicely down the center of my rig. I usually need just a few more pounds of ditchable weight with a 3 mil.

Yes, I would go stainless and/or weighted STA if appropriate. However, my main goal, and I think the OPs goal too was to have a lightweight travel rig.

Personally my scuba luggage is usually close to breaking the weight limit, not the size limit. I'd like to travel as light as possible, and still have a good weighting option on the backplate.

 

[Diving Dubai]

Personally I wouldn't be taking a carbon plate anywhere near water.
@Yellowdog Some precautions for you

The outer layer of the plate is glass fibre used as an abrasion protection. Take care that you webbing straps don't abrade through this layer, otherwise you'll get water ingress and possible delamination of the carbon layers. For the same reason protect teh plate from scuffs and scratches that penetrate teh glass layer

Metla, Carbon and water make a battery. If you can't' isolate the metal components keep an eye out for corrosion

While strong in (depending on the direction of the layup) carbon fibre composites (CFC) are easily susceptible to impact damage. If say you dropped a metal ball on the plate, the impact side might just show a small depression (a compression force) the rear side however might splinter and delaminate because CFC doesn't' like a tensile force

While light and strong keep in mind that it's more fragile than a metal plate with regard to damage tolerance.

 

[Joneill]

I cut the webbing to fit, installed two stainless steel grommets and attached the strap to the plate with two ss sex screws.

Sounds kinky!

 

[Yellowdog]

Personally I wouldn't be taking a carbon plate anywhere near water.
@Yellowdog Some precautions for you

The outer layer of the plate is glass fibre used as an abrasion protection. Take care that you webbing straps don't abrade through this layer, otherwise you'll get water ingress and possible delamination of the carbon layers. For the same reason protect teh plate from scuffs and scratches that penetrate teh glass layer

Metla, Carbon and water make a battery. If you can't' isolate the metal components keep an eye out for corrosion

While strong in (depending on the direction of the layup) carbon fibre composites (CFC) are easily susceptible to impact damage. If say you dropped a metal ball on the plate, the impact side might just show a small depression (a compression force) the rear side however might splinter and delaminate because CFC doesn't' like a tensile force

While light and strong keep in mind that it's more fragile than a metal plate with regard to damage tolerance.

Thanks for the heads up. I am actually familiar with carbon fiber boat hulls as a flats boat fly fisherman and what you say is spot on - But it looks so good. ( did and probably would not pay full retail but so far pleased that I have it )