All about torque...
- Thread starter potbellied yeti
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
The Chairman
Chairman of the Board
Removing or replacing a tank valve by slapping the knob can break that thin stem that operates the valve. Don't do it. Use a wrench, even a fits all is fine here though I won't use them on my regs, and made sure you find "flats" to adjust the wrench to. Use a rubber mallet going on or off. When tightening, you want to compress the 0-ring until the valve flange touches the aluminum and then just a scootch more. Use the rubber mallet, strike the end of the wrench clockwise until you hear the distinctive ring that happens when metal touches metal. Give it one more whack and you're done. I do use three thin ribbons of oxy friendly lube lengthways on the valve threads to prevent galling. Most other fasteners in diving need to be bottomed out and then given that friendly scootch. Unlike many, I only finger tighten the hose to 2nd stage gland nut. I do check them both before I air up on the first dive of every day.
Just use a long enough and strong enough extension although if it fits those criteria you may need assistance lifting it.
- Messages
- 20,561
- Reaction score
- 14,938
- # of dives
- I'm a Fish!
very little works for those things... Why are you opening them up?
we have SPGs now?
So people don't have to run their cylinders to empty on a J valve and get water inside then worry about the water sloshing into the valve inlet. Dip tubes are quaint but there's no requirement to actually have one.
A friend of mine was on a dive in Cozumel. The dropped to depth and entered a downward sloping swim-through. Almost immediately the guy behind signaled OOA, which, of course, ended the dive. At the surface, the tank showed almost full. They drained it, took off the valve, and poured out the water. With no dip tube, the valve was flooded as soon as the diver went head down.
Shrugs I am not the least bit surprised
Most of my tanks have no dip tube. I have not found any water in any of them (over 30) since I started doing VIPs in 2005.
I guess that makes sense from a secondary failure standpoint. I would never want to dive a rental tank without one, not that I would know anyway. I've found that since they started putting hex key ends on the tips of the dip tubes, they are a non-issue with tightening enough to keep them in place for a full year.
Gripping with a pair of chrome stripping tape wrapped pliers? Yeah, I'd rather leave them off.
Similar threads
