An octo for the RAM.

[elan]

What would you guys recommend to have as an octo for the RAM , my buddy insists on having an octo which I understand and have no problems with it.

It should be a metal second. I was thinking about getting a 109 of 156 but if I want to keep it "in the AL family" what would be a good option ? That can still be serviced and have rubber parts available. I'm not an AL guy so I was thinking I could get a good advice here. Could it be one of the Conshelves seconds ? If so which one would be the best.

Thanks a lot.

 

[Nemrod]

Any Conshelf should do:

Assuming this is not a Phoenix then you will need a three way splitter and an adapter for the Hookah port. Works good. And while there are all of this nearly/completely anecdotal and esoteric arguments against three way splitters, swivels etc., I am not sure that in 44 years of sport diving I have ever had one even issue forth a mere bubble much less fail.

But, I do like my Airbuddy with high performance nitrox version . I switch to the Airbuddy, and my buddy gets the double hose mouthpiece, twisted over and up, up and away we go, just like in the old days buddy breathing except no need to share.

N

 

[elan]

Thank Nemrod, I do have that splitter now on the RAM that I use to feed my dry-suit, so I guess I just need to get the octo.

Oh as I see you have it on the bungee under your chin, I will think about that option

So I will get a Conshelf then...

 

[Paladin]

I use a Conshelf II all metal second stage as an octo for my PRAM.

 

[Luis H]

All of the classic US Divers (now Aqua Lung) second stages are basically the same. I am referring to all the down stream demand valve type from the late 60's to at least the 80's. This includes the Conshelf, Calypso III or Calypso IV, Aquarius, Deepstar, etc. You will find many from the 70's that are in great shape and they are all excellent and very easy to service.

All the US Divers second stages from the mid to late 70's are exactly the same. Only the name change with the first stage.

The early ones in the late 60's had a slightly different exhaust T, but they work fine. The large exhaust T ones are slightly better. I am not sure if replacement for the exhaust T are available, but they rarely go bad. All the other rubber parts are available.

 

[Nemrod]

Oh as I see you have it on the bungee under your chin, I will think about that option

...

I like the bungee method. Do not tie the bungee to the mouthpiece as they do DIR style. Simply use a double slip knot. The regulator releases clean and fast just like from any of a dozen different octo holders. The slip knot bungee necklace has the advantage of being clean, simple, cheap, fast deploy and it tucks the second up out of the way.

I do sometimes use an octo holder, the cheap little jobs that look like a snorkel keeper, but the necklace is better. In any case, refrain from using a 60 or 72 inch hose DIR style because you will not be able to deploy the octo second without removing the double hose from your mouth, it turns into a cf, if you follow, simply use a 40 inch (plus or minus) and a right angle (or swivel) and go under your arm.

N

 

[spectrum]

The Conshelf I use here has worked out fine. Being period correct is almost an oxymoron but this looks reasonable and it's serviceable. Do watch out for cracked plastic in the inlet barrel area.

Other than that IP is IP so use whatever suits you.

Mine is in a holder on the left shoulder.

Pete

 

[DA Aquamaster]

Nemrod covered the two cautions for using a bungeed octo with a double hose reg. As much as a like a long hose in a technical configuration, there is no pulling it up over your head with a DH reg in use. A 40" hose works fine, or you can use a 5' hose (60") and tuck the resulting extra length of hose in your waistband. In either case, I also prefer using a 90 or 120 degree elbow so that the hose coming up from below does not cock the back up second stage at an odd angle.

I use the same bungee knot for both technical and double hose diving. It's just a fisherman's knot with enough space between the two halves to create a loop. I tie the knots themselves very tight but I leave the tails about an inch long to provide an easy means to adjust the distance between them - and thus the amount of tension holding the reg. You want enough tension to keep it secure, but you also want it to come loose easily if someone pulls on it.

----

I have a Conshelf XI second stage on one PRAM and a Scubapro 108 second stage on another. Both work great.

 

[USdiver1]

I also use an all metal Conshelf XII second stage octopus on my Phoenix equipped RAM. A splitter, long hose and swivels might be the best for your non Phoenix unit. Also if you go the metal Conshelf route you can get replacement purge button labels in several iterations, possibly even in "U.S. Divers Octopus". Bryan at VDH has them from time to time in the store section.

 

[elan]

Thank you all guys, I think I will be getting a conshelf ...