Another tank / cylinder rack

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txgoose

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It won't impress any cabinet makers, but I needed a mental health therapy project and this did the trick.
(Actual diving wasn't an option this morning.)

Supplies:
7 @ 2 x 3 x 31"
1 @ 1 x 8 x 48"
1 @ 2 x 6 x 50 3/4"
1 @ 2 x 6 x 59 7/8
21 @ 1 5/8" decking screws
28 @ 3" decking screws
1 @ 2014 Dodge Ram
6 @ SCUBA tanks
2+ @ rachet straps

This project is nice because there is no dimensional/milling work that has to be done to the lumber. Everything is standard (in America) lumberyard dimensions. A person could get by without cutting out the scallops if they wanted to mount a simple furring strip as a 'valve protector.'

The centers of the 31" long runners are 7 3/4" apart. The width of all runners is 48" wide measured on the outside. That puts the center of the center runner at 24". This was incredibly simple to lay out. The only tricky part was getting the 'scallops' cut into the 'tank valve protector.' I used an AL80 boot and marked the inside diameter through the hole in the bottom. I cut them out with a scroll saw. Holding the line was critical. To make them smooth, I taped a poster board to the outside of a tank. Then taped a piece of 100 grit sandpaper to the poster board. Then used the tank as a sanding block. Perfect diameter scallop. To finish it all off, I routered a chamfer on the scalloped side of the 1x8. With the chamfer, and with the bottom of the tank snug to the board, there is about a quarter inch gap between the top of the tank and the 'valve protector.'

I figure that if I am involved in a car accident big enough to break the ratchet strap holding the tanks, I probably don't have to worry much about the valves. I do need to add something to hold the bottom of the tanks to the rack. I may replace the 2x6 at the 'bottom' of the rack with a 2x10. I could then mount blocks to hold the bottoms down in the event of a bad bounce. For now it is still vastly better than letting them roll around.

 
You're kind. I am pleased with it but I didn't post the pictures that show all the flaws. :) I would accept "seriously okay."
 
Nice job
Question though will this rack only accommodate al80s?

looks like AL80's or smaller. When I made one several years ago, it was designed to hold HP80's, 100's, 120's. The bottom and top section was fixed, but the two middle slats could swap depending on what I had. It cradled the necks directly to prevent roll as well as any front to back movement. Works really well and now lives in the back of my buddies Jeep. With a new dive vehicle on the way for me, I'm likely going to be building another one to handle 8" bottles though

155169_10150328566755134_2836663_n.jpg
 
I like the second system but now with my doubles and now I need to find a good safe way other then ratchet straps to secure it in the bed of my truck since I have a plastic liner
 
I like the second system but now with my doubles and now I need to find a good safe way other then ratchet straps to secure it in the bed of my truck since I have a plastic liner

the one I made will hold doubles and it looks like the one goose made will as well if you use 1x2's as the center slats.
 
@txgoose :
Won't work for me (differing tank sizes) as is, but I like (ignoring good looks and all) that you have the strap going going full length on the far side of the 2x south of the tank bottoms in an attampt to take the load of the tanks continuing forward at speed should you crash into something. If you had the space for a backer piece that lead the strap more in an arc (in direction of load at impact) on the back side of that 2x, even if just a shallow arc (edit: like a catenary), it would be stronger yet than flat strung. But as is it is load taking wise an awful lot better than just the 2x lumber & screws.
 
Last edited:
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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