Apeks XTX50 or Zeagle F8...or other?

[buddhasummer]

Welcome to my life guys

Are we related?

 

[JackD342]

Hey guys.
I'm looking to buy my first set of regulators and I'd love some input.
I know there are about a million of these which regulator is better threads but I can't seem to find much information/reviews on the Zeagle F8, and most of the information regarding the XTX50 is pretty old (10+ years old mostly).

Regarding the Apeks:
Are the newer models still considered as "bullet proof" as the older ones? I keep hearing about people diving on their Apeks for 15+ years but they are obviously not diving on the newer models (manufacturers tend to cheap out more and more over time).
Should I be concerned about the weight/size if they are primarily used for travel?

Regarding the Zeagle:
There seems to be very little information/reviews on this regulator but everything I've seen makes me think it could be just as good if not better than the Apeks. I like the idea of having a lighter/smaller regulator for travel but I'm more concerned with durability/longevity and being able to grow into it.

About me:
I do mostly warm water diving on vacation but I live in Ohio and would like to start doing some quarry diving and eventually learn more technical stuff. I'm not really sure that I need anything cold water rated because I don't know that I'll dive anything under 40 degrees but I do like the idea of having an environmentally sealed regulator. Are these regulators overkill for me? Should I just look into something cheaper?

I'd love to hear any feedback on either of these regulators. If anybody has dived with a Zeagle F8 and newer Apeks XTX50 I'd love to hear which you prefer and why. Does anybody have any other suggestions of regulators to throw into the mix that would be comparable?

I look forward to hearing what you guys have to say!

 

[JackD342]

I'm late to the party on this thread, but I'll weigh in anyway on several points in case you are still interested. (first, am an LDS owner, so you know my perspective)

1. Coldwater is considered anything under 50 degrees, not 40. Take that seriously - I saw a diver's reg freeflow within 5 minutes in 45 degree water.

2. Some sets are designed for "extreme" coldwater, but I have never seen that defined. If you are doing ice diving at any time, you are probably safest with one of those. (no direct ascent to surface if you start to free flow)

3. There is a new (ish) Apeks item that you may want to consider - the XL4. I think it could very well be a solid compromise for the traveling diver that also wants to dive local quarries, and only own one set. The 1st stage is compact but not exceptionally light, but the 2nd stage is very similar to the Flight, and the braided hose also makes it a little lighter.

4. Cracking pressure adjustment on an octo? Depends on your diving whether that is a "nice to have" or a "must have." If adjusted to specs, octos are generally set at a higher cracking pressure than the primary. And you can always ask your service tech to set it at the higher end of the allowable range if you are more concerned about free flows than about ease of breathing. Also, that adjustment is generally not meant to "zero in" on a preferred setting, it is really there so that you can "de-tune" the performance when necessary, such as a swimming into a strong current resulting in FF or flutter. Usually all the way open is the optimal setting.

5. Integrated air dive computer? I am a big fan, have used them consistently since my first set of gear. Added dive time on repetitive profiles, turn alarms, ascent alarms, dive time remaining readouts based on air consumption rather than just bottom time, these are all good stuff. Redundant gauge? I think for most folks it is a "nice to have" but no harm in having it. My only redundancy has been since I added a hoseless AI, I kept my console AI. (Hoseless now has two potential failure points, not just one.) That worked out well, as I accidentally screwed up my EAN settings on one midweek of a trip and put it into gauge mode from violation, but didn't have to sit out for 24 hours because I had the second one running parallel. If you go redundant, think about a second, low price computer running same or similar algorithm.

Hope that helps.

 

[buddhasummer]

I have both an Apex FSR and Zeagle F8. In my (un-profesional) opinion, both are extremely high quality but I much prefer the design of the Flathead Zeagle F8. It is low profile and I never hit my head on it.. tons of clearence. I do often have a problem with bumping my head on the FSR which can be annoying. I also like the hose routing with the zeagle.

How do the second stages compare? Cheers.

 

[Johanan]

I kinda figured that even with an AI computer I should always have that spg...

... or even with an spg you would need an AI computer - just for redundancy. Mechanical spg's are not unbreakable, too. Yet, until I overcome the bias that spg's are more reliable than transmitters, I've tried to solve the issue with a button gauge. This makes sense only for a sidemount configuration, though.

BTW, this is an Apeks XTX 50 first stage. I have no knowledge about Zeagle, but I really don't know what else I could want from a regulator other than what XTX 50 offers.

 

[Magnus Lundstedt]

If you do not have an adjustment knob you are at the mercy of the technician as to the setup of the regulator. Some shops may set the cracking pressure higher than necessary because they do not want divers coming back complaining about freeflows. You can always adjust for seat wear on a regulator by taking the hose off and adjusting the orifice, there are videos of this on DRIS's website.

The difference on apex with or without external knob is that the one without you need an allen key to adjust.

 

[ams511]

The difference on apex with or without external knob is that the one without you need an allen key to adjust.

I am aware of that but most people do not take an Allen key on a dive. I prefer adjustable regulators, others do not.

 

[eelnoraa]

Smaller/lighter first stage with a slick looking black finish.

About 300g lighter than the Apeks and I believe that spec is before adding the octo.

Not possible. 300g is a lot to save on the 1st stage. Going from a brass model to the identical full titanium model will save about 200g. Going from one model to another when both are made with brass, weight different is like 50g if not smaller.

Just read the spec for F8 on the Zeagle website. Dry weight is 2.6lb for 1st + 2nd + 30" flex hose. For reference, mk25+G250V is 867g or 1.9lb. atomic M1 1st + 2nd is 850g or 1.87lb. Add ththe 30" flex hose, they are all in the range order of weight. If anything, F8 maybe even a tad heavier.

What I want to say is, don't chose your reg based on what manufacture claimed weight/size advantages. It is meaningless in real world

 

[Fyffer]

I have a zeagle flathead 7 and it breaths very well always at any depth. I dive cold water in bc.

 

[eelnoraa]

... I'm still so tempted by the technology of the Zeagles. ...

What exactly is Zeagle's technology here?