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Atomic Cobalt Quick Disconnect O-Ring Replacement

Discussion in 'Computers, Gauges, Watches & Analyzers' started by bractime, Jul 31, 2019.

  1. bractime

    bractime Master Instructor

    # of Dives:
    Location: Dallas
    78
    62
    Has anyone replaced the o-ring between the Cobalt 1 and Quick Disconnect? Can this be done without tools or do I need the follow tool to get it installed. Atomic Aquatics Cobalt O'ring Kit

    The o-ring that seals the hose is easy it the one that seals the computer connection that seem to need the tool. Any Ideas would be great. Thanks

    Robert
     
  2. RonR

    RonR Dive Equipment Manufacturer

    # of Dives: I just don't log dives
    Location: Washington State
    1,277
    495
    It's possible, but not super easy to do without breaking O-rings unless you completely disassemble the QD fitting. Some have improvised tools to help. I believe Atomic uses a harder than normal durometer O-ring now, for better longevity, but unfortunately I don't know what that is. The harder O-ring makes it a bit more difficult to get into place.

    Ron
     
  3. rsingler

    rsingler Scuba Instructor, Tinkerer in Brass Staff Member ScubaBoard Sponsor

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Napa, California
    5,885
    7,634
    Having the tool keeps you from ruining the locking pins inside the barrel. The oring tool really makes seating that oring much easier. It's a smaller ID than the same exchange in a Mk10. It's just one of those repairs that's easier to have the shop do, unless you want to plunk down the $$ for the tools. Of course, about two of those services will pay for the tool set, lol! The tools in your link are only half of it. There are two more that you need more than that kit. You can do without those.
     
    RonR likes this.
  4. bractime

    bractime Master Instructor

    # of Dives:
    Location: Dallas
    78
    62
    Thank you for your reply's, after posting this I went back and looked at it closer and figured out how to disassemble the Quick Disconnect. Once disassembled I was able to replace the O-ring on the Spindles that go into computer. Also replace the 2 O-rings in the body. One additional question there are 2 small O-rings that are side by side on the spindle that going into the computer and they seal the body and spindle. Does anyone know what size O-ring those are, all the other ones were standard common sizes. Ron any chance you have a schematic for the QD?

    Thanks
    Robert
     
  5. rsingler

    rsingler Scuba Instructor, Tinkerer in Brass Staff Member ScubaBoard Sponsor

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Napa, California
    5,885
    7,634
    If they're the small thin ones just under 5mm ID, I've read somewhere that they're a 3-901 duro 90, but I may be confusing with another QD.
     
  6. RonR

    RonR Dive Equipment Manufacturer

    # of Dives: I just don't log dives
    Location: Washington State
    1,277
    495
    That's probably right- I only have Atomic's part #, not the actual size. But the 90 durometer rings a bell.

    -Ron
     
  7. bractime

    bractime Master Instructor

    # of Dives:
    Location: Dallas
    78
    62
    Thanks for all the help. When I look up the 901 size (I don't see it listed as a 3-901 and searching did find the 3-901) the O-ring is too large, it's ID is 4.7mm and OD is 7.5mm which would be to large, it would need an OD closer to the 4.7mm. I believe the Oceanic QD uses the 901. I have the issue that fixed for now. Is there a Kit PN for the QD service Kit? I live on Cayman Brac and it is hard to get what you need and service is limited. I have the Kits I need for my regulators, I just started worring about the QD, it has been very reliable.

    Robert
     
  8. rsingler

    rsingler Scuba Instructor, Tinkerer in Brass Staff Member ScubaBoard Sponsor

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Napa, California
    5,885
    7,634
    Ah, yes! Oceanic sounds right. I recall that from a Pro Plus repair. Sorry!
     
  9. Paul Randal

    Paul Randal New

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Seattle, WA, USA
    4
    1
    I've done this several times in the field rather than using a new hose (which I buy once or twice a year). Put one of the replacement o-rings (I got them through Atomic from my dive shop) on the jack of the Atomic mains charger. Push it all the way to the end. Wrap two turns of thin Scotch tape on the end, with about 3-4mm off the end. Push the o-ring onto the tape. Put the 3-4mm of tape onto the central spine inside the locking assembly. Carefully slide the o-ring down on the central spine until it's off the tape. Now gently push the o-ring into the groove. Did it once in Indonesia a few years ago and just did it right now in Singapore before heading to Male for a dive trip. Given how twitchy the Cobalts have been in the past, my wife and I carry a spare Cobalt 2 each and 3-4 spare hoses. Hope this helps someone.
     
    RonR likes this.
  10. bractime

    bractime Master Instructor

    # of Dives:
    Location: Dallas
    78
    62
    Thank you for your reply, I have resolved this issue. I have been able to source all the O-rings I needed from "the o-ring store" www.theoringstore.com. The O-rings you need are Qnty 2 size 003 90 durometer, Qnty 1 size 009 70 durometer, Qnty 1 size 012 70 durometer, and the 2 small inner O-rings are metric size 1.0mm CS x 2.5mm ID 70 durometer. I did get the above tool kit listed in my first post which really helped to get the small O-rings on and protect the size 012 O-ring from the threads during the install. Instead of using tape I installed the 3 smaller O-rings in an outer to inner order that allowed the O-ring to slide over the O-ring already installed. I will keep the tape method in mind next time. I have been diving using these new O-rings since August without any issues.
     
    RonR likes this.

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