Auto ISO

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Compressor

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Hi: I did a search with no real results here so let's discuss this topic.
Using an UW rig with DSLR camera, anyone use the following settings:

1. Manual mode (eg: 1/200 sec, f:11)
2. Flash: Non-TTL (eg: -1.5 power)
3. Camera ISO setting: Auto ISO (limit highest ISO to say 1000).

Thank you friends.
 
I don't use the auto ISO because it complicates matters. With the manual setting above and in MACRO setup, flash takes over one's lighting; adding auto ISO might make things unmanageable.
 
I don't use the auto ISO because it complicates matters. With the manual setting above and in MACRO setup, flash takes over one's lighting; adding auto ISO might make things unmanageable.

Agree. I use auto ISO only when shooting under ambient light, and the lighting conditions are changing rapidly and unpredictably, and I'm too lazy or don't have time to keep changing my manual settings. That said, I usually shoot with ambient light underwater just to keep my equipment simple, so I am usually using auto ISO. But if I were using flash I would just set ISO for the flash and exposure settings (and shoot in RAW to salvage most of my mis-exposed shots).
 
Set ISO to 100 or 200 and adjust your strobe power instead.

Aperture (f 8 or 11), Shutter speed (1/160 - 1/200) and ISO (100 or 200) should be fixed for ambient (background light). Then adjust strobe power for lighting foreground or subject.
 
I think what will happen is that the camera doesn't know that the flash is there. You point it at the scene and the camera says "ha, this is dark, I need a high ISO" and when you shoot the flash things don't go the way you think they should. Just set ISO to whatever you like and go from there.
Bill
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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