BA156

[GJC]

In my experience, old rubber either gets hard and stiff or it becomes a gooey, sticky glue like mess.

Best to find a silicone replacement than to try to restore old rubber.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

In my experience, old rubber either gets hard and stiff or it becomes a gooey, sticky glue like mess.

Best to find a silicone replacement than to try to restore old rubber.

Checked eBay and the VDH website, no luck for a diaphragm, but I’ll keep looking.

 

[buddhasummer]

I've always had 100% success using lever .141, it's got curly feet not square. If you look down barrel from adjustment knob end you can see the feet.

Are you sure it's not the exhaust valve leaking? Remove main diaphragm, I usually used my leg to seal off front then try the test.

Try @couv from the diaphragm if you need one, he "might" be willing to sell you one.

A G250 one will work, you could try yours.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

I've always had 100% success using lever .141, it's got curly feet not square. If you look down barrel from adjustment knob end you can see the feet.

Are you sure it's not the exhaust valve leaking? Remove main diaphragm, I usually used my leg to seal off front then try the test.

Try @couv from the diaphragm if you need one, he "might" be willing to sell you one.

A G250 one will work, you could try yours.

I’ll look for one of those too. Thanks
I did the test using my leg, holds good vac. I did compare the two diaphragms both have the same part #, the one that works feels thinner and supplier and smoother to the touch compared to the one that came out. The one that’s not working doesn’t feel as smooth and although flexible, I wouldn’t known the difference unless I had the comparison one from the 108.

 

[Couv]

Kudos to @tbone1004 for the excellent job he did untangling this thread early on.

Try @couv from the diaphragm if you need one, he "might" be willing to sell you one.

I probably don't have the correct color...

Anyway, it looks like the OP has sorted out the problem, but here are a few notes:

If you're sure everything else is in order, i.e. correct spring, good orifice, CLEAN air barrel, poppet in good shape, good seat, good orifice, please ensure the lever height is correct. See this thread:
Scubapro Second Stage Lever Height

The grease in the balance chamber is actually supposed to be there. The s-wing poppet's two o-ring configuration is a sort of reservoir that holds a small amount of lubricant between the two seals. Lubricate the seals, install them and put a small bead of grease around the poppet between them. No grease on any other part of the poppet.

Check the diaphragm disc for striations or engraving. If you find any, reinstall the diaphragm 90 degrees to the direction it was last in. Better yet, remove any impressions made by the lever with fine sandpaper.

I'm not sure you are clear on why we use an IP gauge along with a manometer/magnehelic gauge. It is very hard to tell for sure when the actual opening (cracking) of the second stage demand valve takes place. Listening for a hiss is hit and miss (hey that rhymes.) As you slowly draw a vacuum (or immerse) the second stage watch for a drop in the IP. The IP will drop indicates the opening of the demand valve. Take note of the moment the IP drops and look at the magnehelic to read the cracking pressure. Yes, you have to repeat it a few times as it's impossible to see both gauges at once.

Good luck, I hope this ^^^ helps.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

I probably don't have the correct color...

Anyway, it looks like the OP has sorted out the problem, but here are a few notes:

If you're sure everything else is in order, i.e. correct spring, good orifice, CLEAN air barrel, poppet in good shape, good seat, good orifice, please ensure the lever height is correct. See this thread:
Scubapro Second Stage Lever Height

The grease in the balance chamber is actually supposed to be there. The s-wing poppet's two o-ring configuration is a sort of reservoir that holds a small amount of lubricant.

Check the diaphragm disc for striations or engraving. If you find any, reinstall the diaphragm 90 degrees to the direction it was last in. Better yet, remove any impressions made by the lever with fine sandpaper.

I'm not sure you are clear on why we use an IP gauge along with a manometer/magnehelic gauge. It is very hard to tell for sure when the actual opening (cracking) of the second stage demand valve takes place. Listening for a hiss is hit and miss (hey that rhymes.) As you slowly draw a vacuum (or immerse) the second stage watch for a drop in the IP. The IP will drop indicates the opening of the demand valve. Take note of the moment the IP drops and look at the magnehelic to read the cracking pressure. Yes, you have to repeat it a few times as it's impossible to see both gauges at once.

Good luck, I hope this ^^^ helps.

I probably don't have the correct color...

Anyway, it looks like the OP has sorted out the problem, but here are a few notes:

If you're sure everything else is in order, i.e. correct spring, good orifice, CLEAN air barrel, poppet in good shape, good seat, good orifice, please ensure the lever height is correct. See this thread:
Scubapro Second Stage Lever Height

The grease in the balance chamber is actually supposed to be there. The s-wing poppet's two o-ring configuration is a sort of reservoir that holds a small amount of lubricant between the two seals. Lubricate the seals, install them and put a small bead of grease around the poppet between them. No grease on any other part of the poppet.

Check the diaphragm disc for striations or engraving. If you find any, reinstall the diaphragm 90 degrees to the direction it was last in. Better yet, remove any impressions made by the lever with fine sandpaper.

I'm not sure you are clear on why we use an IP gauge along with a manometer/magnehelic gauge. It is very hard to tell for sure when the actual opening (cracking) of the second stage demand valve takes place. Listening for a hiss is hit and miss (hey that rhymes.) As you slowly draw a vacuum (or immerse) the second stage watch for a drop in the IP. The IP will drop indicates the opening of the demand valve. Take note of the moment the IP drops and look at the magnehelic to read the cracking pressure. Yes, you have to repeat it a few times as it's impossible to see both gauges at once.

Good luck, I hope this ^^^ helps.

thanks love this site so much knowledge here. I do have a manometer/magnehelic on order to do the proper test.

 

[Couv]

thanks love

That's being a bit too familiar. :-D A simple "like" of a post is usually more than enough.

 

[buddhasummer]

That's being a bit too familiar. :-D A simple "like" of a post is usually more than enough.

First smile of the day.

 

[Couv]

First smile of the day.

It's just after midnight where you are, so that ain't saying much.

 

[buddhasummer]

It's just after midnight where you are, so that ain't saying much.

It's 13:14 in the land of the rising sun.