Bauer Poseidon won't start

[La libertad diving]

I have a bauer Poseidon.
It has been standing still the last 2 years.
Now I wanted to start it up.
Nothing.
Only a humming sound.

Ar there so.e things I can try before calling a specialist

 

[tbone1004]

Try to turn the motor over by hand. Sometimes you will get a flat spot on the motor and it will get stuck. Alternatively something is frozen which is expensive

 

[WarrenZ]

Also check the starting capacitor if you can spin start the motor it is the start cap if it kicks but won't stay running then run cap.

 

[iain/hsm]

I have a bauer Poseidon.

As this is clearly for a diving application.
1. First we need to know the size of the compressor or specific model number.
2. Did you buy it new yourself or second hand if so we need to know the wording on the motor data plate.
3. Can you verify if it was working in the same location with the same wire harness, starter etc two years ago.

This just get all up to speed with a known base of background and information.
Saves us asking did you dick about with it.

I
It has been standing still the last 2 years.

Again for all to get a better picture.
4. Did you own the compressor for the two years it was idle.
5. Was it drained of oil or inhibited (bagged and sealed) for this storage period.

I
Now I wanted to start it up.
Nothing.
Only a humming sound.
Are there things I can try before calling a specialist

I agree with every thing said by others so far but would add some caution for you not
to cause any serious damage trying to re start this compressor after a two year idle period.

If it were me I would remove the drive belt and separate your planned maintenance between the
electrical, wiring, starter box and motor, and separate from the expensive to fix compressor block.

Once separated by simply removing the rubber drive belt (or belts depending on model) you cannot damage the compressor block. while you can run the motor (even for hours) to get that running correct while the block is safe from any further damage.

So we now have two separated major components and one cannot damage the other.

So please dont try and start it again without first removing the drive belt. would be my first advice. Iain

 

[iain/hsm]

Also check the starting capacitor if you can spin start the motor it is the start cap if it kicks but won't stay running then run cap.

Thats a really good piece of advice, worth noting down, But it assumes its the little Bauer/ Poseidon PE100 or Junior using a single phase capacitor start / capacitor run single phase small motor and at this stage I'm not sure we end up with this being for a dive shop and a big 3 phase PE-VE Poseidon block with MVE phase monitoring.

 

[iain/hsm]

Besides the above I would first isolate the power (UNPLUG) remove both the belt guard and the fan guard if required and rotate the compressor and motor by hand by either turning the fan or turning the driven pulley on the block. At the same time check the oil level on the block and the oil condition after two years idle.
Consider replacing the oil if all is well after this two year idle period but dont do it just yet as you could end up wasting good oil if you end up having a siezed third stage piston to contend with.

I would also remove the air intake filter to see what is living inside it after 2 years, consider also to replace this air filter with the oil and a set of belts in the cost ramp up to restart this thing.

I would go one step futher and remove the air intake housing to see inside the 1st stage head (intake side) for any rust or corrosion. If found you may need also to remove the 1st stage head entirely to check the discharge side and the piston liner and barrel for corrosion. If the intake side behind the air filter housing is clean and rust free a spray of oil will help lubricate a bone dry piston liner no end.

This is your biggest problem after two years idle without inhibiting the compressor before storage first.

Inhibiting oil is a lightweight oil that basically evaporates inside the compressor and deposits a film of rust inhibiting oil over all the internal metal parts, without it you could have a bone dry compressor that on its first start up scratches the fine piston liner with the dry metal piston rod and you have to replace both piston and liner. I should add you cannot run with inhibiting oil inside and you need to replace it with the synthetic lubricant Bauer uses before runnintg it.

But next time you plan on storing a compressor for two years or buying one that has been in long term storage remove the air intake filter and a spray of inhibiting oil inside the air intake
housing then bag over the housing with a sealed plastic bag. If you find one or intend to buy a compressor in this state, no intake filter and all bagged up it gives you a great clue that it has been properly inhibited for storage for you.

 

[iain/hsm]

Are there things I can try before calling a specialist

Yes you can try leaving it alone for now
And don't press that green button

 

[La libertad diving]

I moved from the Netherlands to El Salvador..
Took a bit longer then I thought to be ready to go

 

[tbone1004]

I moved from the Netherlands to El Salvador..
Took a bit longer then I thought to be ready to go

is everything wired for the right voltage and can it deal with 60hz? Everything in Europe is pretty much 50hz, and El Salvador is 60. The motor shouldn't care, but depending on what your soft starter or vfd and everything else is, it may not be able to work with the higher frequency

 

[BRT]

is everything wired for the right voltage and can it deal with 60hz? Everything in Europe is pretty much 50hz, and El Salvador is 60. The motor shouldn't care, but depending on what your soft starter or vfd and everything else is, it may not be able to work with the higher frequency

VFD shouldn't know???