Buoyancy Float Arms

[dm_junkie]

Hi,

I just upgraded from my point and shoot with an old DSLR. The current air weight of the setup without any arms, strobe and light is about 3.7KG.

This weight to go underwater it will probably be around 2.4 KG underwater. But it strain my weaker arms to maintain the stability especially to shoot anything macros.

I tried researching for suitable float arms to reduce the weight under water or a comfortable weight in which most veterans like you. In youtube, saw basic method to achieve neutral buoyancy but that about it.

So, without other strobes and arms to be added yet, I thought of just going for a pair of float arms (partly due to budget) and then decide when I invest in a strobe ... etc later on.

a) What is the comfortable negative weight after introducing the float arms?

b) Any one tried float foam and if they are more effective? I felt that keeping the skeletal ball joints makes adjustments much easier.

thank you all.

 

[Compressor]

For myself, I want my rig to be about neutrally buoyant What the setup does is based on what port I have on the housing. A big dome port and it's + and with a smaller port not so much.

What set up do you have?

 

[Searcaigh]

When I was younger it wasn't a problem to use my F3 in a Tussey steel housing + ULC skeletal arms.

I eventually got float arms several years ago as I felt the weight of the housing was getting too much.

Tried the spongy type add ons, didn't appear to do anything, waste of money!

I use a combo of short Inon and long ULC arms which gives me neutral buoyancy now. My wide angle set up uses smaller Inon float arms compared to the set up with the 105mm macro.

Housings are Sea&Sea for D300 and D7100.

 

[diversteve]

If you want float arms, these are good.
Stix Underwater Buoyancy Strobe Arms & Floats

Any one tried float foam and if they are more effective?

Like what? Open cell foam like used in pool toys compresses and becomes less buoyant at depth.

 

[dm_junkie]

Hi, yes, but there are also closed cell ones. For typical dives to 40m or less when these float foam are rated to more than 100m , wouldn't that be negligible?

 

[dm_junkie]

For myself, I want my rig to be about neutrally buoyant What the setup does is based on what port I have on the housing. A big dome port and it's + and with a smaller port not so much.

What set up do you have?

Sorry for the late reply. Am using a Nexus D90 and a 105mm lens. Yet to purchase any strobes but will make do with a light or two for now.

 

[Chris Ross]

Weigh it in water with a baggage scale fully setup, just hang it from a cord fully submerged. That weight is the amount of buoyancy you need from your arms. Get the closest combo you can find with out going over - you don't want to be positive!! Most float arms publish buoyancy figures.

 

[JackConnick]

We have a variety of floats and float arms. The 10Bar ones are inexpensive and are closed cell foam so they don't absorb water. Nauticam and Kraken float arms are very convenient. The Kraken one is adjustable and you can let water in to balance the rig as you like. All products have their weight and buoyancy listed under the Features tab.

Floats and Float Arms

The OP above could just use a float arm across the top of the housing and held on with two clamps.

 

[davehicks]

I use a combo of Stix closed-cell foam blocks (which certainly do work) 3 each on 12" arms plus 16" Ultralight 1" diameter buoyancy arms. My typical DSLR setup weighs about 23lbs out of water and with an 8" dome it's neutrally buoyant. It's a bit negative with a macro port but still comfortable to use.

As you get use to your system get ready for a bit of "camera elbow" as you build up those muscles.