C-8080:Bad auto focus in low light?

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at a 400% magnification raw is slightly sharper than shq jpeg and tiff but has more noise and needs to be cleaned up using the noise reduction in the conversion, which loses a little sharpness. the jpeg compression is so good that there is no visible difference between jpeg and tiff. so I cant see the point of using tiff or raw and that isnt taking into account the write speeds being so slow
the default setting for shq jpegs is too soft and contrasty, image quality is much better with contrast -5, sharpness +2. make sure that setup/settings/all reset is set at off to retain these settings
 
great to know, anthony...

i am trying to eat all this stuff up.....great info...

prob is, i tried the slave mode w/ internal flash (on manual mode), and the image is all white-washed.......i can't figure it out! aiyaya....

thanks though!

-dan
 
hey guys,

do you always white balance on something white beofre each shot??

thanks,

-dan
deputydan1:
great to know, anthony...

i am trying to eat all this stuff up.....great info...

prob is, i tried the slave mode w/ internal flash (on manual mode), and the image is all white-washed.......i can't figure it out! aiyaya....

thanks though!

-dan
 
I have the Ikelite housing for the 8080 and an Ikelite strobe, which kicks ***.

My only concern is, the pegs that hold the camera body in place aren't strong enough to stop it from being shoved against the back of the housing, which can trigger the Mode button every time you try to take a picture.

I finally trimmed some of the rubber doohickeys stuck on the inside of the housing and added and subtracted O-rings till I got a workable solution.

My only concern is that the housing weighs a ton, which makes it hard to hold onto whilst holding onto the mooring line while doing a safety stop, and hard to hold while trying to climb the dive ladder. Much better solution than the Sea and Sea DX model I had before, tho.

Anyone else using the Ikelite housing with the wide angle dome port? Mine works OK, but I'm getting images of the housing showing up in photos I'm taking with it.
 
yikes.....does it rattle in the case?!?!?!?!?

should i be concerned??? hmmmm

thanks,

-dan
 
likelite:
I have the Ikelite housing for the 8080 and an Ikelite strobe, which kicks ***.

My only concern is, the pegs that hold the camera body in place aren't strong enough to stop it from being shoved against the back of the housing, which can trigger the Mode button every time you try to take a picture.

I finally trimmed some of the rubber doohickeys stuck on the inside of the housing and added and subtracted O-rings till I got a workable solution.

My only concern is that the housing weighs a ton, which makes it hard to hold onto whilst holding onto the mooring line while doing a safety stop, and hard to hold while trying to climb the dive ladder. Much better solution than the Sea and Sea DX model I had before, tho.

Anyone else using the Ikelite housing with the wide angle dome port? Mine works OK, but I'm getting images of the housing showing up in photos I'm taking with it.

I have no problems with the Ike housing. Are you talking about the pegs on the back lid/camera tray? On my housing the camera is screwed down to the camera tray using the tripod mount and the pegs are only used for alignment. With that secured, and the lid clamped tight, there is zero movement inside the housing.

As for holding the housing during a safety stop, I've used the setup seen here:

http://www.island-scuba.com/page/001/PROD/Accesories/ACL0Q2
 
hey eric!

i have an 8080....am looking into the exact set-up as you....ike, and the ds-50 strobe...

do you have any regrets? any pointers for me??

thanks,

-dan

ps> still trying to figure out if the pt-23 is worth it for me...

coop85:
I have no problems with the Ike housing. Are you talking about the pegs on the back lid/camera tray? On my housing the camera is screwed down to the camera tray using the tripod mount and the pegs are only used for alignment. With that secured, and the lid clamped tight, there is zero movement inside the housing.

As for holding the housing during a safety stop, I've used the setup seen here:

http://www.island-scuba.com/page/001/PROD/Accesories/ACL0Q2
 
deputydan1:
hey eric!

i have an 8080....am looking into the exact set-up as you....ike, and the ds-50 strobe...

do you have any regrets? any pointers for me??

thanks,

-dan

ps> still trying to figure out if the pt-23 is worth it for me...

I have no regrets on my setup. I bought the Ike rig from Ryan and his service was fine. As far as pointers, do a search on Scubaboard for pointers and you will read TONS of great advice. The big three are always worth repeating...Get close...shoot up or across, not down...get closer. I found that one of my biggest problems was strobe positioning. I got better as my trip went on, but was never 100% satisfied. I spent one cloudy morning (not a dive morning) snorkeling and doing nothing but shooting one shallow coral head. Playing with strobe position, macro modes, exposures, etc. The boat I was on had a 20" LCD screen that allowed me to view my pictures post dive. That was a big help.

I decided against the pt-23 because of the strobe situation. I wanted the TTL the ikes offer, but was hesitant to purchase the converter from Germany. One too many variables for me (although plenty of people have gone that route with great success).

Good luck with your decision and remember, if your camera isn't writing to your card, shoot another picture!
 
thanks, eric...

yes, i am seriously considering Ryan's set-up.....nice guy too....
but i am worried about lugging around such a big piece of camera equipment vs. the pt-023 (using internal strobe)....

i wish i had a pic to compare the sizes of the 2 systems.....

thanks anyhow~

=dan
 
Noooooooooo!
Just tested the video mode on the 8080.......yikes.........TERRIBLE pic quality, even at the highest setting!!! am i the only one that thinks this? my canon s-230 shot WAY better video quality...

hmmm...

-dan
 

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