Cheap Video Light & Mini Cold Shoe mount for TG's

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deepsea21

Contributor
Messages
1,445
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1,355
Location
Virginia Beach, VA USA
# of dives
200 - 499
Just took delivery of this light and mini ball shoe connector. Light seems great with a high capacity battery and 3000 lumens on the highest flood setting (among others) with a 90 CRI ($80). The cheap mini mount ($12) could rust away over a 2 week trip as it's not UW rated but for $12 who cares? Balls are reported to be SS and the housing is coated aluminum. Will give these a try come December in Coz mounted to my TG3 UW housing. I wanted really compact and the typical 1" ball joints and everything else from the cold shoe to the light would be bigger and cost a fortune. We'll see. On the high flood setting this light will make my living room look like daytime but it also has a low flood, a hot and pretty floody cold spot, a red and UV light settings as well.
 

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Update... So I ended up purchasing 2 of these lights in preparation for the December dive trip to Cozumel. One was to serve as a camera light and the other was to see how one would do as a regular dive light for me. I've probably owned 5-6 dive lights over the years prior to purchasing/trying these and my experience with these is 50%/50%. One light on the very first dive started to flicker at about 20-25 feet and then went dead. When that happens you just know something bad has happened. Upon surfacing I opened it and out pours that ever so upsetting rust colored salt water. That light is being returned as "Defective" within the return window. For those of us who have been diving a while we know that virtually every item we have that comes with an o-ring somewhere the instructions state to LIGHTLY coat the o-rings with a film of silicon grease and that's what I did. Result = Flooded and 1 light dead.

Now let's try the other light only this time I THICKLY coated all threads and O-rings with silicon grease and screwed the cap on. I layered on enough grease across all threads and the o-rings that it was being squeezed out as I gradually tightened it all the way past the o-rings to the stopping point. That light survived multiple dives to a depth of up to 90' serving as her video/camera light. Pretty impressive in that application on the high flood setting that gave good lighting for macro photos and boasted a 2.5 hour battery life constantly on that high flood setting. Of note, she did not turn off her on-board flash but left that on constantly in conjunction with this video light and photos with the flood light on vs. off were certainly improved over just the on-board flash.

Also pretty impressive was that cheap $12 mini-mount as after 2 weeks of diving and rinsing, yes, it started to show a bit of discoloration/rust on the balls but for $12 who cares and we'll see how many other trips we get out of it. That little mini-mount kept the whole package so very nice and compact.

So, I'll give this light 3 stars because unless you really goop on the grease it will flood. Also, as a primary dive light the spot light setting isn't bright or focused enough to do much and the flood settings don't have enough range to do much other than provide good additional illumination on the high flood setting for macro photos.

I haven't given up on this brand totally and ordered a DL10R to try as a primary dive light that offers more lumens in a more focused yet "somewhat" floody beam that I prefer over highly focused hot spots. I will be taking that light to Roatan in May and will see how it performs but I will be sure to HEAVILY grease the threads and o-rings on that one prior to submerging it. The fact that these dive lights come with replacement o-rings is downright silly... As everyone here knows, if a light floods in salt water due to a failed o-ring it is dead and no replacement o-ring is going to bring it back to life.
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https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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