DA Aquamaster parts

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

In trying out my homemade pin I over torqued the unit and accidentally sheared a bit off the gasket. Anybody have one of them. I hate to ask, but it seems that learning from my mistakes is the only way I ever get anything through my head. At least no fatalities ……...so far!
 
In trying out my homemade pin I over torqued the unit and accidentally sheared a bit off the gasket. Anybody have one of them. I hate to ask, but it seems that learning from my mistakes is the only way I ever get anything through my head. At least no fatalities ……...so far!
I also have a couple HP diaphragms with gaskets, if that's what you need.
 
It`s #14 and part #1000-13 on the DA Aquamaster parts list. Inside diameter is .7 inches and outside diameter is .8 inches and yes that looks like the one. FYI, be careful when you torque the first stage down! And I went ahead and put the pin in the mail today.
 
I must be looking at a different edition of the manual... I've got item 15 (part # 8210-03) from page 12 of the manual I pulled off VDH... If that jives with what you need, shoot me you address via pm and I'll drop it in the mail tomorrow morning.
 
Answered in our Pin conversation.
 
A couple of things to consider with these gaskets.
The original phenolic gaskets- crunchy brown ones, you can't (short of being a gorilla) over torque them and the actually need quite a bit of torque to seat properly. What normally happens is it gets off centered a bit and you damage it that way. The best way to install the nozzle is to assemble it upside down with the gasket installed, I like to tiny bit of silicone grease on it to help keep it in place. Then place it through the yoke and screw on the main body while keeping the nozzle upside down until it's finger tight. If you have already installed the main diaphragm (which I usually do) then also install the pin and pin pad before starting the assembly.
VDH also sells a nylon version of the gasket, its white. This one requires a LOT less torque to seal and you can very easily destroy it with too much torque. I trashed several before getting it right. On this one, snug it up good then test for leaks and if needed add a little more torque but go easy. I use the same assembly method as above.
The phenolic ones are harder to get in straight but are much more forgiving of over torque- not sure you actually can over torque them within reason- than the nylon ones. I prefer the phenolic ones in most instances.
 
Thanks herman. I`ve already wounded one gasket (the nylon one from VDH). Hopefully I`ll get the next one right. I don`t have a tank handy, but next time I rent one I`ll use your technique of easing up on it.
 
A couple of things to consider with these gaskets.
The original phenolic gaskets- crunchy brown ones, you can't (short of being a gorilla) over torque them and the actually need quite a bit of torque to seat properly. What normally happens is it gets off centered a bit and you damage it that way. The best way to install the nozzle is to assemble it upside down with the gasket installed, I like to tiny bit of silicone grease on it to help keep it in place. Then place it through the yoke and screw on the main body while keeping the nozzle upside down until it's finger tight. If you have already installed the main diaphragm (which I usually do) then also install the pin and pin pad before starting the assembly.
VDH also sells a nylon version of the gasket, its white. This one requires a LOT less torque to seal and you can very easily destroy it with too much torque. I trashed several before getting it right. On this one, snug it up good then test for leaks and if needed add a little more torque but go easy. I use the same assembly method as above.
The phenolic ones are harder to get in straight but are much more forgiving of over torque- not sure you actually can over torque them within reason- than the nylon ones. I prefer the phenolic ones in most instances.

Herman,
The only problem I've had with my Phoenix Aqua Master is that plastic gasket. I roached my first one on initial assembly and the second started out good but started leaking after a month. The plastic gasket does not torque down... it squishes down. Even when it was air tight I worried that any stress applied to the cans would break the seal loose. Something that did apparently happen. So now I'm waiting for some phenolic gaskets from Bryan. Any idea if the phenolic gaskets can be stacked or shaved down for clocking?
I am going to DH Indonesia for a month in March and I am wondering if this is a common failure point and would justify the purchase of an Kraken for added reliability. Of course I will also bring a single hose reg set for backup.
Thanks.
 

Back
Top Bottom