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Deburring aluminum?

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself - DIY' started by Michael.52, Aug 9, 2013.

  1. mcdeedives

    mcdeedives Registered

    # of Dives: 0 - 24
    Location: ohio
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    I worked at one time for a aluminum trailer manufacturer. Depending on how sharp the burrs are sandpaper works the best on small burrs and a file for large ones with sandpaper after you work it down. We would use a air grinder with a sandpaper disk on it.

    Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
     
  2. Michael.52

    Michael.52 Registered

    23
    1
    Thanks again to everyone:
    The file, sandpaper, and scotchbrite did the job just fine!

    Next question:
    I intend to chop off the two ends and make a two piece mini STA out as well.
    What tips could you give me regarding making a clean accurate cut?
    So far I have been recommended to mark a line with pencil and then use a hack-saw...followed by the same deburring as discussed above.
     
  3. mcdeedives

    mcdeedives Registered

    # of Dives: 0 - 24
    Location: ohio
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    Die grinder with cutting wheel you can get accurate

    Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4
     
  4. lucca brassi

    lucca brassi Photographer

    # of Dives: I'm a Fish!
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  5. oldschoolto

    oldschoolto Regular of the Pub

    # of Dives: I'm a Fish!
    Location: maine
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    I cut aluminum on my table saw ..... Just need a carbide blade and safety glasses.... A plain old electric hand saw also works.... Hack-saws blades tend to bind in aluminum as the cuttings don't release from the tooth of the blade.... They make cut-off wheels just for use on aluminum... deburring with a carbine cutting tool or file and finish with silicon carbide on a cloth wet/dry backing.....

    Jim....
     
  6. Dsix36

    Dsix36 Solo Diver

    1,534
    1,162
    I have fabricated a lot of aluminum stuf both professionally and as a hobby. I have always just filed and/or sanded the edgers to smooth things up and this worked fine, although it always takes a lot of time. I recently bought a lathe with pretty much a full setup of tooling. It came with a large assortment of deburring tools. I had never used an actually tool made for the job before.

    This is my personal take on this topic:

    Anyone that is too cheap/stupid to get the deburring tool, deserves to have the same extra workload as I subjected myself to for years. I feel like a total tool myself now that I know how fast, easy, and effective the deburring tool is.

    Short version - get a deburring tool!
     
  7. Jim Lapenta

    Jim Lapenta Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Canonsburg, Pa
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    Hand saws, table saws, hack saws, etc.. Too much like work. I like the waterjets I have access to. Then just a pass with the deburring tool or automotive sandpaper around a dowel rod.
     
  8. oldschoolto

    oldschoolto Regular of the Pub

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    Location: maine
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    I have a bridgeport, lathe, AC/DC Mig and Tig welders, Plasma arc, 50 ton press, sandblast cabinet that will take a big block chevy, overhead 5ton crane, brake and shear and slip roller ..... and Now I need a water-jet cutter like a hole in my head.... And that is what my wife would do if I told her I " NEEDED " more tools for my shop that I play in....:shocked2:

    Jim....
     
  9. ffhamm

    ffhamm Divemaster

    # of Dives:
    Location: Phoenix az
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    I second the deburring tool listed above. No reason to mess around with sandpaper or scotch bright.

    Jeff
     
  10. Nemrod

    Nemrod Solo Diver

    11,975
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    Aluminum 6061 corners on my Jeep. Debured with the hook type tool.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    As an aircraft mechanic at one point in my life, I think I have deburred probably a 1,000 miles of aluminum edge. The simple hook tools work like a charm, polish with Scotch Brite maroon or grey.

    When people talk about "marine grade" aluminum they usually mean a 6000 series material. It will form a natural oxidation layer that will resist further corrosion, though not completely or forever.

    N
     
    NotSure likes this.

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