DIY converting a titanium first stage yoke to DIN...nuts?

[sshrum]

I posted a thread earlier about converting the yoke on a T2x to a titanium DIN.

I'm still waiting on a response from Atomic, but since then I've been looking at a number of other posts and found one where the author was discussing DIY conversions with a link to scubatools.com

I'm comfortable around tools, so with that in mind, if I got my own torque wrench and the appropriate socket, couldn't I just do the conversion myself. This would allow me to switch out the connection type whenever I wanted without having to purchase the titanium DIN-to-yoke adapter ($440).

Torque wrench:
3/8" Drive Dial Torque Wrench - $165

Sockets (not sure what size the Atomic T2x uses)
X-Long 5/16" Hex Key Socket - $16
X-Long 6mm Hex Key Socket - $16

If the first stage was a soft metal (such as brass) I'd have reservations but this is titanium.

Does it sound nuts if I was to DIY with the appropriate tools?

And honestly, as long as I'm doing this properly, how would anyone know the difference warranty wise?

 

[Thanshin]

Interesting question. Maybe you'd have more replies in the DIY forum.

 

[sshrum]

Good point...I've reposted there.

I'm a newb here. :-D

 

[knowone]

most best is to buy with

 

[sshrum]

I'd agree...but this is a 1 time used T2x that I'm getting at ~40% off...can't really knock the savings.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

If the manufacturer makes official DIN parts that can be installed, what's the big deal?
The material composition of the first stage (brass vs. titanium) shouldn't really figure into your decision at all.

Before you perform the yoke-to-DIN conversion on your first stage, though, you might want to assess whether it's worth the trouble.
If you own your own DIN tanks and do a lot of local diving, then it might make sense to convert to DIN.
If you rent your tanks or do most of your diving on vacation, it might make more sense to keep your first stage yoke-configured, since the majority of rental tanks you'll encounter will have yoke valves.

FYI, the yoke connection is very reliable. For OW recreational diving, it's certainly good enough.

I own DIN tanks, so my reg first stages are DIN-configured. Sometimes I'll just bring a spin-on DIN-to-yoke adapter with me when I go on vacation. Some people complain about the adapter causing the first stage to protrude enough to bonk them in the back of the head. With the way I set up my reg/tank/BC, I haven't experienced that issue. YMMV.

 

[Scared Silly]

Swapping the yoke to DIN and visa versa is simple on any reg. The unique tool you need is a thinned walled socket for the yoke retainer. Torque to 45in-lbs, same for the DIN assembly.

 

[sshrum]

Just had a productive trip to the LDS...seems that Atomic does makes a conversion kit for the leftover titanium yoke to turn it into a titanium DIN-to-Yoke adapter for $175. Figure the conversion kit to turn the yoke into a DIN is about $250 + the brand new T2x I got for $1100 from ScubaToys.com and I end up with a $1600 DIN Atomic T2x with a free titanium DIN-to-Yoke adapter (adapter seems to be going for $440). Plus my LDS sed they'd do the labor at no charge. I'm happy. Now I no longer need to worry about swapping the connections out and having to lug a torque wrench and socket with me everywhere.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

Those prices are stupid expensive.
I realize that the T2x is made of titanium (so it's super-duper light and corrosion-resistant), but, for $1600, one could you could buy a very good reg setup (not Atomic Aquatics brand) and a drysuit.
Wow.

 

[sshrum]

Money wasn't an issue and I wasn't going to cheap out on the reg...

+ ease of use,
+ feature set,
+ longevity,
+ support reputation,
+ field reputation, and
+ the fact that their manufacturing HQ is 10 miles from my house

...were factors.

Plus, the T2x is non-dedicated EAN to 40%, so once I get (Jebus willing) Nitrox certified, I can use this same reg so it will grew with me as I progress into more advanced diving. I plan on using this reg for the rest of my life and wanted something that wouldn't scratch or corrode because the chrome plating got chipped off so going titanium just seemed like the way to go.