Does the Serrated Edge on a Knife Work?

[OKI_GI]

I've seen magazine reviews tell divers the serrated edge on a dive knife is useful, but I wonder? If you've ever really tried to saw/cut a 3/8" or larger diameter waterlogged rope underwater with the serrated edge of a dive knife you'll know what I mean. Two weeks ago, after Rodale's Scuba Diving magazine's knife review jogged my interest, I tried it again, this time on a sunken fishing net with a 1/2" waterlogged hemp rope on it. The serrated edge was next to useless and this was on a nearly new dive knife. On the other hand, the business edge, which I'd sharpened with a file in a forward stroke from tang to tip, did eventually cut thru. On another point, divers might want to consider a blade with a "guthook" on the top edge near the front end. On hunting knives, the hook is there specifically to catch and slice small line which is the most dangerous type of snag we generally run into.

 

[Warhammer]

Like you, I've never found much use for the serrations on a knife, other than to saw through wood or something similiar. I carry a Gerber Gator. It's a lockblade and 5" long when closed and 8.5" when opened. It doesn't have serrations nor a guthook. But it's virtually indestructable, sharpens easy, and doesn't rust if you take care of it. I also added a set of EMT shears to my kit this past weekend. Those things are amazing, sliced right through a penny and didn't miss a beat.

 

[OKI_GI]

I've had the EMT shears for a year now--rate them as a MUST buy. I keep mine on a 3' length of shock cord in a BC pocket. The cord has a small snap on one end that I keep clipped to a D-ring cause my wife hates me loosing things and buying new ones.

 

[Green_Manelishi]

keep in mind that the "300 series" stainless chosen for
many dive knives is selected for its corrosion resistance,
not its edge taking or holding ability. if you want a sharp
knife you need a steel that will take an edge and for 'stainless' that is usually 440C, ATS34 and a couple
of others: of course, they are not inexpensive and they
will rust. the AUS-'x' and G-'x' used by Cold Steel and
SpyderCo will take a nice edge but do corrode. the other option is a 'high carbon' steel that will take an edge, but corrode even more quickly. however, properly maintained your dive knife should not suffer badly.

also, keep in mind that hemp is notorious for defeating all
but the best edge. it is "the test" for some people to use
when evaluating a knife's cutting ability.

i carry a Buck "Intrepid" which is made of a high-carbon stainless which i cannot recall but one swipe severed a 1"
line that was fouling a lobster pot.

 

[bio guy]

Hmmm....I must have 300 series then, since they really don't hold an edge very well (only labelled as stainless). One is a monsterous, flat tipped, "giant squid" fighting sword. I bought it when I was first certified because I was a young guy and it looked cool....lol. Now, it's more of a tool than a even a remotely practical knife. And I have yet to fend off any monsters with it. It does have a serated blade top side, with a "guthook". Both are really handy for cutting monofilament. The small one is much more practical, but does not have the "guthook", which can come in handy. I have not tried to sharpen the serrated side on either though.

I definitely agree with the shears. I have a stainless pair similar to EMT that are amazing.

 

[DevilTron]

Which company does make the shears you are writing about? (any web site would be good too)

 

[ericfine50]

The EMT shears are called Sea Snips and Trident has them in the US. The only down side is that the bolt is not 316 stainless and rusts after a season, but for 20.00 it is worth it. Here in the North East US, there is a lot of Spyder Wire on the wrecks and a knife can't cut that with ease. Also, I think Zeagle sells them with a pouch.

Eric

 

[bio guy]

Dive Rite has their Trauma Shears as well.