now look at the wires coming form the wall and which leads the connect to on the motor each wall lead should connect to 2 leads. each pair is one leg of a motor winding coil. mark them like 1 a , 1 b 2 a 2 b. the 1's and 2's are twisted together. now re connect them to be
220 lead to 1a ,,,,, 1b to 2a ,,,, 2b to the other 220 lead. that wiring does nto include any capacitors. if it dies nto run well unloaded than change it to
220 lead to 1a ,,,,, 1b to 2b ,,,, 2a to the other 220 lead. I suspect that it will go A B A B. AND IT WILL RUN OK ON 220 V. CANT SAY EXACTLY WHAT TO DO WITH THE CAPACITOR. i THINK IT IS INLINE WITH ONE OF THE LEADS SO IT MAY BE 220 CAP A B A B 220 POLARITY SHOULD NT BE A PROBLEM ON THIS AS YOU ARE NOT USING a electrolytic power supply capacitor. If when following the wiress fromteh wall you connect to a capacitor first consider the capicitor just an extension of the wall wire. and we will go from there. I wish someone else had more wiring experience in the capacitor area. I can look at mine and get back to you. without the capicator it will probably not start under any load and perhaps not at all . It needs teh phase shift to get it going. One started the physical rotation provides the little bit of phase shift to keep it running in one direction. if you hook it up and it hums spin the motor and it should run. it will probably do it in both directions. the capacitor makes it so it only goes in one direction when it starts. This is very similar to stand up fans when the start cap is faulty. If i can Ill send a pic of mine in a few minutes.
I just looked at mine and it is a lessosn motor. it has 2 capacitors on it a srart and probably a run capacitor. teh cap wiring is not in the power wiring box. wha i have when I look in the bos is 2 holes. 1 wires from each enter in the wireing box where it connects to house power. I will assume that one hose is teh a side of teh coil and the other is the b side. i also have a thermal overload so it looks like it is wired as. 220 1a , 1b to thermal overload in , thermal out 2a, 2b to 220. Its a guess picking through the wiring in the small box but that is the best I can do. I like leads numbered and a schematics much better.
220 lead to 1a ,,,,, 1b to 2a ,,,, 2b to the other 220 lead. that wiring does nto include any capacitors. if it dies nto run well unloaded than change it to
220 lead to 1a ,,,,, 1b to 2b ,,,, 2a to the other 220 lead. I suspect that it will go A B A B. AND IT WILL RUN OK ON 220 V. CANT SAY EXACTLY WHAT TO DO WITH THE CAPACITOR. i THINK IT IS INLINE WITH ONE OF THE LEADS SO IT MAY BE 220 CAP A B A B 220 POLARITY SHOULD NT BE A PROBLEM ON THIS AS YOU ARE NOT USING a electrolytic power supply capacitor. If when following the wiress fromteh wall you connect to a capacitor first consider the capicitor just an extension of the wall wire. and we will go from there. I wish someone else had more wiring experience in the capacitor area. I can look at mine and get back to you. without the capicator it will probably not start under any load and perhaps not at all . It needs teh phase shift to get it going. One started the physical rotation provides the little bit of phase shift to keep it running in one direction. if you hook it up and it hums spin the motor and it should run. it will probably do it in both directions. the capacitor makes it so it only goes in one direction when it starts. This is very similar to stand up fans when the start cap is faulty. If i can Ill send a pic of mine in a few minutes.
I just looked at mine and it is a lessosn motor. it has 2 capacitors on it a srart and probably a run capacitor. teh cap wiring is not in the power wiring box. wha i have when I look in the bos is 2 holes. 1 wires from each enter in the wireing box where it connects to house power. I will assume that one hose is teh a side of teh coil and the other is the b side. i also have a thermal overload so it looks like it is wired as. 220 1a , 1b to thermal overload in , thermal out 2a, 2b to 220. Its a guess picking through the wiring in the small box but that is the best I can do. I like leads numbered and a schematics much better.
