• Welcome to ScubaBoard


  1. Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

    Benefits of registering include

    • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
    • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
    • You can make this box go away

    Joining is quick and easy. Login or Register now by clicking on the button

dual voltage motor issue

Discussion in 'Compressors, Boosters and Blending Systems' started by rjack321, May 22, 2020.

  1. KWS

    KWS ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: SE TEXAS
    4,823
    1,217
    113
    now look at the wires coming form the wall and which leads the connect to on the motor each wall lead should connect to 2 leads. each pair is one leg of a motor winding coil. mark them like 1 a , 1 b 2 a 2 b. the 1's and 2's are twisted together. now re connect them to be

    220 lead to 1a ,,,,, 1b to 2a ,,,, 2b to the other 220 lead. that wiring does nto include any capacitors. if it dies nto run well unloaded than change it to
    220 lead to 1a ,,,,, 1b to 2b ,,,, 2a to the other 220 lead. I suspect that it will go A B A B. AND IT WILL RUN OK ON 220 V. CANT SAY EXACTLY WHAT TO DO WITH THE CAPACITOR. i THINK IT IS INLINE WITH ONE OF THE LEADS SO IT MAY BE 220 CAP A B A B 220 POLARITY SHOULD NT BE A PROBLEM ON THIS AS YOU ARE NOT USING a electrolytic power supply capacitor. If when following the wiress fromteh wall you connect to a capacitor first consider the capicitor just an extension of the wall wire. and we will go from there. I wish someone else had more wiring experience in the capacitor area. I can look at mine and get back to you. without the capicator it will probably not start under any load and perhaps not at all . It needs teh phase shift to get it going. One started the physical rotation provides the little bit of phase shift to keep it running in one direction. if you hook it up and it hums spin the motor and it should run. it will probably do it in both directions. the capacitor makes it so it only goes in one direction when it starts. This is very similar to stand up fans when the start cap is faulty. If i can Ill send a pic of mine in a few minutes.



    I just looked at mine and it is a lessosn motor. it has 2 capacitors on it a srart and probably a run capacitor. teh cap wiring is not in the power wiring box. wha i have when I look in the bos is 2 holes. 1 wires from each enter in the wireing box where it connects to house power. I will assume that one hose is teh a side of teh coil and the other is the b side. i also have a thermal overload so it looks like it is wired as. 220 1a , 1b to thermal overload in , thermal out 2a, 2b to 220. Its a guess picking through the wiring in the small box but that is the best I can do. I like leads numbered and a schematics much better.
     
  2. rjack321

    rjack321 ScubaBoard Supporter ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Port Orchard, WA
    9,935
    4,167
    113
    I ended up replacing the pump (and the motor pulley) from surplus center. I now have a 13cfm FA pump which fills the 20gallon tank to 148psi (the cutoff) in 3:20. So 8cfm actual going from 0 to 148psi. Its a 2 cylinder 1 stage rol-air and seems like a way better pump. At least I'm getting 3hp of work out of the motor on a 20amp 120V wall circuit.
     
    tbone1004 likes this.

Share This Page