Duet 2 Tevo Tornado upgrade advice...

[The Chairman]

I've been completely frustrated in the past with my Tevo Tornado. I had it running with an OctoPi, but it was plagued with problem after problem, to the point I just stopped printing. Meh. So, I decided two years ago to update to the Duet 2. Life happened and I broke my leg while in Fiji. Finally, I'm ready to do this. This past week has seen most of it go together, but I still have some unresolved issues. I also want to change my extruder/hot end duo to a single unit. This will allow me to print both softer and harder materials. Please feel free to comment and kibbitz on my approach.

While I've always been fastidious about crimping, I had to up my game to make these cables. There are three different cable ends used in this project, and all my crimpers were for much bigger connectors. I bought two Iwiss crimpers, with my favorite being the stepped crimper. It will crimp the wire at one size and the insulation at another. On the JST-PH connectors, I had to use tweezers, they were so small. Each connector had its own methodology and this was indeed tedious.Many thanks to my friends at the Gainesville Hackerspace. They've already have given me some creat insight and direction.

The new Iwiss is thin to deal with these tiny connectors

The tools I used to do all the crimping

A JST-PH connector

Labels are important as the wires all look the same​

I had taken care to measure the old cables and added 6". I also had to add another 22" for the extruder stepper motor. Finally, I labeled each cable on either end.

 

[The Chairman]

With the cables all made (stepper motors and limit switches), I've plugged most of them in. Here is my first problem. The new hot end and thermocouple aren't long enough. In the past, I had to open up my control box to replace these, do I'm thinking of adding a coupler to facilitate that. Here're the almost wired pics and a pic of the coupler I have on order...

My next issue is with the heater bed and thermocouple. The Tornado uses a four-pin connector I can't identify. So, I've got four-pin Aviator connectors coming...

I went with a Mean Well 24V power supply to power everything. These are the ones we use in data centers to power servers. I drilled/tapped the top to install nylon pylons to mount the Duet 2 as well as the AC relay for the bed heater. Today, I'll be finishing the wiring to the power supply and board. I might even make a solder joint for the hot end and thermocouples just to get by. The 4 pin aviator connectors and coupler will be here on Thursday. That's been the biggest frustration so far: shipping. The nation gets shipping overnight or in two days. I get to wait 5 to 7 days. Sure, I can have it delivered to a pickup place a half hour or more away, but I don't want to drive that much. Here's the card mounted to the power supply...

This brings to yet another issue: the enclosure. I'm not sure if I want to design/print it or design/build it. It has a 7 inch screen to mount. Of course, I'll be adding split wire looms to clean up the wires.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Lessons?

 

[The Chairman]

Figuring out where to mount the Duet 2

BIQU H2 Direct Drive Extruder and Maxiwatt Hotend​

 

[The Chairman]

This is the diagram I'm working off of to wire this Duet 2...

 

[The Chairman]

This upgrade is amazing... I haven't finished and have somehow managed to print a cat...

 

[tbone1004]

Ma~ clearly approves!

 

[James79]

Thoughts? Suggestions? Lessons?

I've fell victim to the whole "when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail" issue too many times! I don't recommend printing an entire enclosure.
For mounting the power supply, mainboard, and display I would look at some plastic rectangular tube (similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Hollow-Rectangular-3-346-0-098-Length/dp/B000PHEZAY/ref=sr_1_2?crid=34VHFG4I3N9PN&dchild=1&keywords=rectangular+tube+pvc&qid=1627141666&rnid=2941120011&s=industrial&sprefix=rectangular+tube,aps,210&sr=1-2, but sized for your needs). An appropriate length section with a cutout for the display, and push/pull fans in the ends (with a simple dust filter) and you're good to go. Then when the printer is running, you can print bezels for the display and fans to pretty it up.

Just an Idea,

Respectfully,

James

 

[The Chairman]

I've fell victim to the whole "when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail" issue too many times! I don't recommend printing an entire enclosure.

Yeah, I've got an entire machine shop at my disposal with a brake. It's traditional to print it, but I'm with you. I've got a lot of options.

It appears that I don't have 3/16" spade connectors here. I guess I'm off to find some. I certainly don't want to wait a week.

 

[The Ruttmeister]

If you are extending the thermocouple (also, thermocouples are not the right thing to use, an RTD is easier to deal with, higher resolution, more accurate and will last longer) don't forget that you need special wire. If you just use ordinary copper wire you'll have the potential for inaccurate temperature readings.

 

[The Chairman]

don't forget that you need special wire.

To extend it? Are you sure? I mean, these just tie into the board.