Equip & etiquette questions (7D mkii)

[M DeM]

Well, I've decided to venture into the world of UW photo/video. I'll be going to Grand Cayman the first week in April.

But I am chock full of questions even though I've read the great Alex Mustard book.

I've done a lot of wildlife photography and I teach film production, so it's not the camera I have questions about. It's the damn housing and accessories.

First, there's the issue of accessibility. I've only found one rental for a 7D MKII housing, and unfortunately it's being overhauled when I need it. So... basically we can't try these housings out? Do folks just read reviews, purchase and hope that they like it?

Second, I'm hoping to use the 7D MKII with the Tonkina 10-17 fisheye. Seems like folks like that set-up. From what I've read, I'll need an 8" or 9" dome. But.. I'll also need a port extension? Why?

Strobes / Lights - I was hoping to be able to switch back and forth between video and photo while diving. Sounds like this is not so easy. I was thinking that since strobes are no good for video, if I had to choose one, I'd choose a constant light source and rather than flash for photos, just use the video light. (Is this a crap idea?)

But aside of the quality that'd get me, I was wondering if going around with lights on was considered bad form. Like driving around with your high-beams on. Is it fair to other divers/photographers to have these artificial lights possibly in the background of their shots?

Finally, I was thinking about purchasing this housing, an Ikelite

Ikelite Underwater TTL Housing for Canon EOS 7D Mark II DSLR

What I like about it is A) the price B) looks beginner friendly but... I can't find any good specs on it. Or a manual. Or even what this particular model is called other than "Ikelight 7D MKII Housing".

Finally, what etiquette should I be aware of. Shooting wildlife in a group setting has some rules, mostly common sense (front row/ front boat stays low, watch for folks shooting wider if they're behind you, etc., etc.)

But I know as a diver with only a dozen or so dives under her belt, using a DSLR underwater for the first time that my attention is going to be pretty occupied. What are some things I should be sure to do or to avoid either during the dive or on the boat?

Thanks so much!

 

[Zef]

As a diver with only a dozen or so dives under your belt, I would recommend holding off on investing in equipment and put your cash into gaining more experience. Work to perfect your buoyancy so you have nearly absolute control of your body position at any depth...this will make you a better diver and will translate into you becoming a good underwater photographer. At this point in your diving you will most likely be very task loaded handling your equipment and you may find it challenging to maintain your depth and relative position while turning your camera on and off yet alone dealing with the settings of a DSLR.

Etiquettewise, don't be that s*&#t head photographer who pushes divers out of the way while they are trying to view an object or sealife below the surface because you just have to get your shot. That has happened to me on quite a few occasions and there is little that pisses me off more underwater than a diver who does this.

I find the lack of buoyancy control and the lack of etiquette so appalling among many divers with cameras and go-pros that when diving locally,I often choose not to dive with folks who insist on bringing this type of equipment along.

-Z

 

[JohnnyC]

You need a port extension between the housing and dome port because lenses are long. Even if it fits without an extension tube, putting the lens right to the end of the dome point makes the dome port pointless.

If you purchase extension tubes that interface with zoom and focus rings you have full control of manual zoom and focus. I typically only use a zoom ring and the appropriate extension.

Constant light works fine for video. It really sucks for photos. Some people use a constant light as a focus light, but using it for photos is less than ideal. You really want strobes.

You'll want them on strobe arms. They'll attach to the top of the housing handles. There will be a screw hole on the top of the handle to attach the mounting system, typically ball joints. Then you decide what length and how many sections of arm you want. Depending on the strobe type, there are several connections at the top that you will have to match to your arm type.

Light discipline is just like anywhere else, especially at night. Going around with random, jerky light movement scares the fish and makes your buddies nervous. During the day it's not so much of an issue. Generally, don't be a jerk.

Ikelite makes fine stuff. Most housings for a camera model will have the same controls and same layout since it's based on the camera, so there's no real "beginner" housing.

As for general advice, you're not ready for a camera yet. With only a "dozen or so" dives, you're going to be task loaded, your buoyancy is going to suffer, the environment is going to suffer. You're better off enjoying diving until you've got more experience with the diving part of it.

 

[mi000ke]

I was in a similar situation a couple of months ago. I, too, have shot a 7D and a 5D ii for many years on land (wildlife and landscape), but when my daughter decided to get certified, I decided I wanted to capture the event. But not having done underwater photography, and having only about 75 dives at the time I did not want to invest the big dollars to house and light either of my DSLRs. I opted to start slow and cheap. I bought a Canon housing for a Powershot S110 I had hanging around, and decided to shoot (in RAW) using only ambient light.

What I've learned:

You will need to get your diving/breathing/buoyancy control to be automatic so that you can concentrate on the photography. That first time you brace for a photo, hold your breath to shoot, and end up on the surface won't be so great. With 12 dives that may be a challenge. Focus on buoyancy and controlling your movement first, and photography second until they both become second nature. After 25 dives with a camera, I am just now getting comfortable with the concept. I'm only now ready to move up to a better system with strobes.

Use point-and-shoot settings. You will not want to be using brain cycles to set your camera photo by photo while also trying to control your buoyancy/movement. Again, I am just getting to the point where I can hold position and adjust the camera at the same time. I started by using Av mode (f8)/auto ISO and that's worked OK so far.

If you use ambient light (and shoot in RAW) then you will need to do a lot of white balancing in post. I experimented with using the underwater WB setting vs the auto WB setting. I carried a white slate hooked to my BCD shoulder strap and shot a photo of the slate as I changed depth so I could use that to set the WB in post. I also shot the sand or something grey as often as I could for the same reason. I found that the best results came from using the underwater WB setting and shooting sand or something grey. I use the slate only as a slate now.

Try not to bump into all the other divers when the DM calls everyone over to see some interesting thing.

Try not to photo bomb the other divers' photos.

Pay a visit to Kathy Church's studio. She is always great to talk to about underwater photography.

Hope you get that special photo.

And be sure to check out all the great GC threads here.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

I live in Seattle, so I just bought from @JackConnick of Optical Ocean Sales. The service is great, prices are very fair, so spending this kind of money is an easy decision.

Do you have any good brick and mortar stores in your area?

 

[northernone]

I'll echo what the other's already said.

Hard to go wrong with housings, buy what your budget allows. Get a "standard" port (mini or full size done) for the lens you like, get the right port extension to match if needed. The lens compatibility lists are online.

A powerful video light can work as a macro/closeup light source for photography, doesn't come close to the ability of a flash to balance natural light in the shallows. Cloudy days or deeper you can use it successfully as a flash replacement.

Here's a few other comments with a caution given your inexperience underwater:

Ikelite is often people's first dslr housing brand but rarely their second. They are adequate, easy to care for but a little fragile (electronics and water... Eventually everything drowns). It's a very simple system that works well, not many "features" really.

As a photographer you'll quickly find the edges of the group with a likeminded buddy or solo diving works well. Don't be the diver pushing through the other divers trying to get a shot.

Lights, not much of an issue during daytime as they aren't particularly bright enough to bother. Night dives, don't blind someone from close range.

Please get a ton of focused training dives first before adding a dslr and strobes.

If you like, start diving with a "dummy" rig. A basic camera on video (if you want) strapped to a block of wood in the appropriate shape of a dslr housing.

Learn to dive with both hands on it, avoid hitting anything or dying. Learning how to use your fins, body and current to position and steady yourself for a shot.

Get in, get out and don't destroy the reef behind you. All this while being a safe diver.

Learning to be frame shots in a 3d environment underwater is challenging even if you have drone experience on land.

Trying to manage photography without dive skills solid first is a trainwreck to watch and can be dangerous.

A good relationship with those you dive with is very important. It's exhausting to run around falling behind and catching up to the other divers. Unless you want models in your photo or find another photographer who has the same dive goals, it's often very nice to be diving solo for serious photography.

If you're looking for done pretty pictures to remember your vacation, I'd recommend a basic camera for the purpose of preserving memory and preferably make friends with someone who might sell or give you some nice shots who knows how to take photos successfully underwater.

All in all, enjoy the journey.

 

[hilljo88]

I'd second the recommendation to check out Cathy Church's shop at Sunset House. It might be the most complete photo supply shop in all of the Carribbean. You might consider renting equipment for your first foray.

 

[chris kippax]

Manual is available at Ikelite.com click on the housing model than click the owners manual PDF link. Best thing about Ikelite is they are easily self repaired and modified to improve performance/ergonomics.

 

[M DeM]

Sounds like the general advice is: hold off, and I’m going to go with everyone’s suggestion to do so.

I’ve completed PADI’s “peak buoyancy” but let’s not kid ourselves here— my buoyancy ain’t quite peak yet.

I think I’ll rent a GoPro (though I have those things) for video, and a set-up I’ve used before which is the Sea & Sea underwater cam.

If memory serves, the strobes don’t move all that much there are only three pieces and I think it only goes to 60’ or so. But it was point-and-shoot (w RAW, which is my big thing).

Thanks for all your help, and I can tell this forum will be a great resource.

 

[M DeM]

Will do! I’ve checked her website because I’ve read great stuff about her.

I'd second the recommendation to check out Cathy Church's shop at Sunset House. It might be the most complete photo supply shop in all of the Carribbean. You might consider renting equipment for your first foray.

ill