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Explain DIN and Yoke conversion (not adaptors)

Discussion in 'Tanks, Valves and Bands' started by filmguy123, Jul 1, 2016.

  1. filmguy123

    filmguy123 Professional Photographer

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    How does DIN and Yoke conversion work in terms of tank valve AND regulator?

    Can a yoke regulator be fully converted with a kit to a DIN regulator? And vice versa (no adaptor)

    What about tanks, does it go both ways with a converter?

    What's the cost and time commitment on doing any of these? Any downsides?
     
  2. runsongas

    runsongas Great White

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    valves come in three flavors in the US. you have yoke only, convertible 232 bar din/yoke, and 300 bar din.

    300 bar din valves only work with 300 bar din regs, yoke valves work with yoke regs and din regs with a din to yoke adapter, and convertible valves use a donut that screws into the valve to convert between din and yoke to work with either yoke or din regs.

    to convert a yoke reg to din to work with din valves, you have to buy the conversion kit parts and install them which turns the reg into din. for a din reg, you can either use the screw on adapter and keep the reg din but still use it with yoke valves or buy the yoke conversion kit to turn it into yoke.
     
  3. Pao

    Pao Manta Ray

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    Basically with conversion you change an integral part of the 1st stage of the regulator set so that it will work with the desired valve. A yoke reg will only work with yoke tank valves. A DIN reg will work with a DIN valve or a yoke valve by using an adapter. So a DIN reg will be more adaptable compared to a yoke reg. But the use of an adapter will increase the bulk of the 1st stage and also introduce another connection which can potentially leak.
     
  4. RainPilot

    RainPilot OC/CCR Instructor Trainer Staff Member ScubaBoard Supporter

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    Most new tanks come with a "Pro" valve these days (or can be easily specified with one) and these allow either reg fitting to be used by means of a screw in converter, easily removed and replaced with a Allen key.

    SOME first stages are very simple to change from DIN to yoke and vice versa, its a question of buying the appropriate kit and removing the one to screw in the other.

    Other first stages also need a kit but the process is more involved and is not as simple to convert back and forth. If these are left DIN, then a yoke adapter can be used but as Richard said these add bulk and are not ideal. Not a deal breaker IMO but still, need to be aware. If they are left yoke, then can only be used with yoke valves.

    IF you decide to get DIN first stages, then Id recommend getting the 300 bar versions, they are usable with any DIN valve and give you some additional options for some interesting tank variations. Granted, 300 bar tanks and fills are not very widely available in the US as far as i know but there is no downside to having the 300 bar vs the 232 bar once you decide to go DIN.

    From your other postings, I suspect you are going to end up going down the tech route in the not-too-distant future so once you buy your own tanks I would get them with the PRO valves so that you have options. The DIN vs yoke debate is strong on this board, Im not diving out of the US so I can't weigh in on it, my experience has been overwhelmingly positive toward DIN but then Ive never had a problem getting DIN tanks to rent. My yoke adapter has never been wet in 16 years :wink:
     
  5. filmguy123

    filmguy123 Professional Photographer

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    This is good stuff guys, thanks.

    Yeah, one thing I have debated was the DiveRite sidemount kit that Tbone loves and ordering one as DIN, one as yoke. Because it will be quite a while before I would be interested in going SM or Doubles, but the value is undeniably good, a backup is always nice to have, and if I can get one native with both mounts to choose from, that could be handy on a BP/W where the valve could be getting in my way. So was wondering about the conversion process to permanently swap it over back to DIN if I want to use it in a more advanced setup or decide I really don't ever need a native yoke 1st stage. However, I may go APEKs in which case doing something like that would be a bit more expensive, in which case I would just want to commit to one path (probably DIN).

    So, to confirm:

    • most but not all regs can be fully converted from DIN to Yoke, or Yoke to DiN.
    • cylinders with convertible valves can be made to easily work with either DIN or yoke via a simple donut screw. But, how common are convertible valves on cylinders these days?

    How much are the conversion kits? Is it hard on a regulator to swap them back and forth, or does it compromise anything about their integrity to do so? Or is it just a minor hassle that could easily be done if I wanted a native yoke reg before a vacation destination that was packed with yoke AL80s?

    I think I'll be diving DIN HP117s at home mostly.
     
  6. Pao

    Pao Manta Ray

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    So, to confirm:

    • most but not all regs can be fully converted from DIN to Yoke, or Yoke to DiN. - I haven't encountered a modern reg that cannot be converted. The availability of the kit; however, may be a problem for some regs
    • cylinders with convertible valves can be made to easily work with either DIN or yoke via a simple donut screw. But, how common are convertible valves on cylinders these days? - I don't know where you live but here in the Philippines they are gradually replacing yoke valves, ask around the shops you are going to use

    How much are the conversion kits? DIN kit for Apeks = 65 USD at LP (http://www.leisurepro.com/p-sqtdaar/apeks-300-bar-din-conversion-kit-for-all-apexs-regulators) Is it hard on a regulator to swap them back and forth, or does it compromise anything about their integrity to do so? - No, it is not hard on the regs. It is easy if you are handy with tools. You do need a torque wrench. Usually you just need a new O-ring and sometimes a new filter. You can also time it when you service your regs.
     
  7. Peter69_56

    Peter69_56 Divemaster

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    Do they actually make 232 BAR DIN regs? I have yet to see any in OZ. All regs I have seen here to date (new) are either K valve ( and often 300 BAR rated reg stamped on the body) or 300 BAR DIN. I suspect most (if not all) manufacturers now make the primary reg bodies rated to 300 BAR, and then either fit 300 BAR DIN kit or 232 BAR K valve kit. I suspect this is done to simplify production. My CDX-5 Oceanic regs were K valve and I converted them to 300 BAR DIN, and the body is stamped 300 BAR.
     
  8. RainPilot

    RainPilot OC/CCR Instructor Trainer Staff Member ScubaBoard Supporter

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    Hey Peter. I haven't seen any regs recently that were not available in 300 bar DIN. I suspect that the 1st stages are all 300 bar rated and that the 232 is available as an option which as you say would make commercial sense. A 232 and a 300 first stage shouldn't have much of a price difference in materials and once you factor in tooling its probably cheaper to make everything 300 bar and then fit the required valve interface as per request.

    I know some people do insist on 232 bar DIN as there is a (very slight) risk attached to the extra couple of threads sticking out and if you know you will never need 300 then it would make sense to get the 5-thread DIN instead of the 7.

    Southern hemisphere seems to have moved with the European standard of 300 bar DIN being preferred, probably as its cheaper to source EU stock than US stock. In South Africa we had convertible valves and 300 bar DIN as default when I did my first course in 2000, the only yoke fittings around were on cheaper sets usually at the schools and rentals. Every person I knew who had their own regs had 300 DIN.
     
  9. Pao

    Pao Manta Ray

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  10. RainPilot

    RainPilot OC/CCR Instructor Trainer Staff Member ScubaBoard Supporter

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    Good link Richard, says all you need to know
     
    Pao likes this.

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