First Cozumel Trip 15-18 November 2018

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George Monnat Jr

Divemaster (DM)
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
214
Reaction score
123
Location
Austin, TX
# of dives
200 - 499
Part I: This tale is to remind me of my hard-learned lessons and maybe help someone else going to Cozumel for the first time. This ended up being long, so if it’s too long; didn’t read (TL;DR), you can just read the Lessons Learned bits (or not) – I appreciate any corrections or further lessons. I also added some feedback for Aldora Divers near the end.

For over 20 years my wife and I have spent the vast majority of our vacation time and money visiting her family in Hawaii. We get to do good diving there, but we’ve never been diving in the Caribbean, including Cozumel. It seems like every other diver in Texas has been there multiple times, especially with direct Southwest flights from every major Texas city to Cancun. The problem is that we’re both DMs for weekend classes here in Austin, and almost every weekend students ask us what Cozumel is like. We could only say we didn’t know.

I had the opportunity to take time off over my birthday weekend, so we finally got to go dive Cozumel. There weren’t any tropical storms, but a record cold front that brought snow to Houston in early November was blowing through Cozumel as an El Norte, closing the west side and potentially ruining dive plans.

We had a direct flight from Austin to Cancun (basically free with my points and Companion Pass for my wife, only about $65 each for taxes and fees), with free luggage for our dive gear. I used the online immigration/visa form without any problems at all. I filled them out online, printed them double-sided, and cut them in half for each of us. On the recommendation of posters in these forums, I also made color copies of our passports, at 125% to avoid any accusations of counterfeiting, and kept them tucked away in a big Ziploc. We didn’t need the copies, but they were a nice backup if something happened to our paperwork.

The Villa Aldora only took cash, USD from us, and the Aldora Divers shop had a discount for cash, so I took a lot of it. On the recommendation of others here, I waited until we were out of the Cancun airport to get pesos.

Lesson Learned: Take a lot of smaller bills, too, for tips and such. Most places take USD for payment and tips, so I want lots of $2, $5, and $10 bills instead of all $20s and larger.

The first morning we headed to the Austin airport for our 6 AM flight, like I normally do once or twice a month for work. I badly underestimated the pre-holiday crowds; there were ridiculously long lines for the airlines and security. The lady checking in our bags said it was 55 minutes to our flight, so we had less than an hour. They couldn’t guarantee our luggage would make it on the flight, due to the increased international security, and put LATE CHECK-IN tags on our bags. We got in the security lines, and it quickly became apparent that there was no way we were both making it through on time.

We went back to the Southwest desk, and they got us a later flight through Houston. It meant we’d be getting to Cancun 5 hours later (2:30 instead of 9:30). I didn’t get the chance to plug my phone in a wall socket, and the extra 5 hours had my phone at only 9% when we landed in Cancun.

Lesson Learned: I need to get an extra battery charger/pack to take in case my phone battery is dying. It’s amazing how dependent I’ve become on that silly thing.

Southwest couldn’t tell us if our luggage made it on our original flight, and they didn’t have luggage people in Cancun to grab our bags for us. We finally got there, tired and hungry, and great news, our luggage was all on a cart at the baggage claim entrance. Yay, we got our dive gear!

We made it through customs, with our passports and the online visa forms, and dragged our gear the seemingly long haul to the Terminal 4 transportation area, where the recommended ‘van guy’ was to pick us up for the trip to Playa del Carmen (PDC) for the ferry to Cozumel island. I had been communicating with him via email, but the $10/day international AT&T deal included voice and text but no data (at least no internet access off the Cancun or Cozumel towers). That meant not only was my phone dying, but I couldn’t check email to see if something changed with the van guy or look up information like the dive shop number and address.

Lesson Learned: Make sure I have all the phone numbers, addresses, etc. already in the phone in case I need to call or text or find something when no internet is available. I later got the van guy’s card and posted it here. For the next trip (already planned!), I used their handy online form. They sent a good summary and confirmation with all the info we’ll need plus some helpful hints – wish I’d done that last time.

We didn’t see a guy holding a yellow sign with my name on it at the taxi company pick-up area, after walking around there for minutes. Since I couldn’t contact him via email and stupidly didn’t get his number, we walked to the ‘family and friends’ pick-up area to see if he was there. That was a long bag-haul for nothing – don’t bother with that area. We had to talk our way back in and drag everything back to the company pick-up area. Finally, we saw our sign. It was the van guy’s brother, and he called a driver for us.

The driver was excellent: funny and helpful. I asked him to stop at a Banamex ATM to get a good exchange rate on pesos, but he said a nearby 7-11 had a good ATM. We stopped, and my wife was happy to see a Starbucks next to it. There was also a great little taqueria there, too.

Lesson Learned: I forgot that Mexico uses the $ sign for pesos, too. I took out ‘$200’ which was only 200 pesos, not $200 USD worth of pesos. I had to then make a 2nd transaction and pay the fee twice. Hopefully USAA reimburses that, but probably not.
 
Part II:
While riding to PDC, a call came in from New York. I ignored it, because my battery was down to 5%. That was a mistake, because it was the Villa asking when we’d be there to make sure someone was at the shop. That got me worried that they closed early, because we needed to drop of our gear, check in for our dives early the next morning, and take us to the villa. I tried calling, by dialing back, and it wouldn’t connect.

Lesson Learned: The phone would put 001 in front of incoming US-based calls. Hitting call-back wouldn’t work but dialing without the two leading 0’s would work like normal. I didn’t realize that until later.

I couldn’t get the dive shop’s phone or address without internet, but fortunately horn34 of these boards was there and texted me the info. I tried calling them and only got voice mail – I assumed it was for the shop as it was fast Spanish (too fast for me). I left a voicemail as my phone died.

We got the 5 PM ferry OK. The ride was a little rough with the weather and El Norte, but the first-class seats were comfortable and worth the money. We then dragged our gear and luggage the few blocks to Aldora Divers. We got there a few minutes after 6, and they were open. Turns out they are closed 3 PM to 6 PM then open from 6 to 8 PM. I was trying to call during their ‘siesta’ closed time (I don’t think it’s really for siesta).

Lesson Learned: Aldora Divers is open 7 AM to 3 PM, closed 3 PM to 6 PM, then open 6 PM to 8 PM.

We dropped off our gear and did our pre-dive paperwork, including payment, and one of the Chris’s from the villa came and picked us up. She checked us into the villa then drove us to the MEGA market with a 100 peso bill for the taxi ride back. That was really nice. We got some sundries and more pesos from the ATM in there.

Lesson Learned: It looked like the old guy bagging groceries was expecting a tip (people in front of us, locals, tipped him), but I only had large bills as in 200 and 500 pesos and $20 bills, which I needed. I asked the cashier, in English, if I could get change, and she didn’t understand. I need to improve my Spanish and keep smaller denominations, as noted earlier.

We had our first night’s dinner at Rolandi’s across the street from MEGA. It was different (Mexican-style Italian) with interesting and tasty bread, but the beef was low quality and high price (I got fish which was good, but my wife felt like beef – she like’s high-protein when diving). Overall it was a mediocre, over-priced dinner.

Lesson Learned: Stick with seafood, the beef on the island isn’t very good (especially compared to Texas). Also, the places on the main road, Av. Rafael E. Melgar, are typically over-priced tourist traps.

As expected, the El Norte had the west coast shut down meaning no diving on the ‘good’ side. Fortunately for us, Aldora is the only dive operator licensed to run boats off the east side. They put the 4 of us couples, all staying at the villa (I think) on a van and drove us across the island to Chen Rio. A 5th couple met us there. They had two boats with the other 3 Aldora couples on one, and us and the 5th couple on the other.

Lesson Learned: The east side doesn’t have docks or piers, so you have to wade through chest-deep water to get on and off the boat. Use Ziploc and garbage bags to keep stuff dry on and off the boat and take the bare minimum.

The weather was good with sea state 1 (mostly calm). We went to the southern tip to dive the El Islote site. It was about the same as a mediocre Oahu dive and orders of magnitude better than a Texas dive. We saw some stuff that was new to us, so a great dive. Unfortunately, the weather had turned during the dive meaning that the ride all the way back north past Chen Rio was rough with lots of rocking and blowing, cold spray. Aldora provides felt-lined rain coats which is AWESOME! I had brought mine, but it was busy protecting my dry goods.

Aldora Feedback: We really appreciated all of the efforts, and extra costs, getting us blowing bubbles and preventing our trip from being ruined, at no additional cost to us. The first day of dives had one diver in addition to me and my wife (the other’s husband snorkeled), with two DMs, Jorge leading and I believe Carlos trailing. Assuming that Carlos is a DM, then the brand new OW diver had 4 DMs diving with her (including me and my wife – not working, of course, but current PADI pro creds). The other boat had 6 more-experienced divers with two more Aldora DMs (I think), so I thought it was a great combination.

The second dive was off the coast where the Mezcalito’s restaurant is. It was another good dive, with a giant Southern Stingray sitting in the sand as we descended and a medium Electric Stingray nearby. It was our first time seeing both of those in the wild. Jorge is excellent at pointing out the micro, too, like Flamingo Tongues. During the surface interval, I told him I had never seen with my own eyes an octopus in the wild, even though I’ve been diving since 1992. During the second dive’s safety stop, about 70’ / 21m above the bottom, Jorge gave the signal for octopus and pointed down. I couldn’t see anything. He said it was an octopus eating a fish. I think he was messing with me :wink:

After that, we waded back to shore at Chen Rio and taxied back to the Villa. We had a slightly better meal at Pepe’s (not worth it) and returned for a nap, since it was during the shop’s ‘siesta’ period. We went back to the shop and were told that the wind had shifted to where it was blowing down both sides of the island, meaning that the east side would likely be poor for our second and last day of diving. They’d call us 8-9 the next morning. We had a mediocre meal at RockNJava (great coffee, though, and cheaper than the other places) and went back to the villa.

My alarm went off at 8 AM the next morning. A few minutes later there was a knock at the door. Chris was saying to hurry, we were getting in a van. The plan was to board at Chen Rio again, then drive around to the southern end of the park, because it was now protected, or leeward. There was only us and two of the couples from the Villa, so 6 divers with Jorge as our DM again along with Mario focused on the least-experienced couple (again great planning). We boarded in Chen Rio and had a sunny, pleasant ride around the southern end of the island.

We dove through the Arch into Maracaibo first. Wow. That was absolutely phenomenal. The rock formations and life were a billion times better than any movie that could ever be made. Hawaii doesn’t have colorful, massive sponges like that. We then dove Columbia Deep before being dropped off at Playa Palancar where a van took us back to the villa.

Aldora Feedback: I didn’t want to mess with my dive camera on this first trip to Cozumel, and during the last 2 dives I was constantly thinking, “Why didn’t I bring my camera!” I’ve been diving with a lot of Pacific shops that have a 2nd or 3rd DM swimming with a camera, and they sell pictures and/or video after the dive. It’s a small revenue and advertisement generator for them, and that way divers who didn’t have nice cameras can still get memory reminders to share with family and friends – which helps with marketing, too.

Those were fantabulous dives, and the weather and boat rides were perfect. While we had a lot of issues, we got two east-side dives and two far-southern west-side dives; we’ve knocked out the hard-to-get-to sites and can focus on the closer stuff in the future, so that’s really cool.

For our last dinner we stayed off Melgar and, at the recommendation of the other divers, ate at Kondesa. Wow, that was excellent! The lionfish cakes were phenomenal. My FT-job customers are in Baltimore, where I’m about to fly to for this week, and I need to prevent myself from mentioning that crab cakes are now #2.

The Iron Man triathlon was going on, with the main event Sunday morning as we needed to get off the island. Chris was worried for us that we wouldn’t be able to get to the ferry on time with all the road closures. The shop agreed to hold our luggage and gear Saturday night. That way if we had to walk in the morning it would be just with our packs. We were able to eventually get a taxi, who had to drive on the wrong side of the main road a half mile before winding through back roads, but it was nice of the shop – again – to stage our luggage for us. We then got back home without any issues.

The trip started off rough with travel, food, and weather, but it just kept getting better and better, with a ton of assistance from Aldora Divers and Villa. We planned our return on the ferry ride off Cozumel and will be back real soon.
 
Cozumel takes another virgin!
 
The Villa Aldora only took cash, USD from us, and the Aldora Divers shop had a discount for cash, so I took a lot of it. On the recommendation of others here, I waited until we were out of the Cancun airport to get pesos.

Lesson Learned: Take a lot of smaller bills, too, for tips and such. Most places take USD for payment and tips, so I want lots of $2, $5, and $10 bills instead of all $20s and larger.

I found that paying in pesos was cheaper, probably the most blatant example was on the ferry, the guy behind when he bought a sandwich paid almost twice as much in USD as he would've paid in pesos. Granted it wasn't a huge amount, and the larger the purchase the more likely you are going to get a decent exchange rate, but that stuff adds up.
 
Wow, you went thru a lot of hassle... and still ended up with a good trip. Yay Aldora! My trips are never that complicated, but I usually go at different times of year. Sounds like a good learning experience and a good sign you are already planning the next trip. That I DO do, as do most others on this board. Thanks for posting!
 
Excellent review with practical, need-to-know insights and tips. Even a concise treatment runs long when you've got important points to cover.

Lesson Learned: Take a lot of smaller bills, too, for tips and such. Most places take USD for payment and tips, so I want lots of $2, $5, and $10 bills instead of all $20s and larger.

That I've learned slowly. I'm used to getting money pre-trip at ATMs. Last time, I learned it's better to write a big check to 'CASH,' pull up to the teller window, and tell how many 1's, 5's & 10's I want, the rest is okay in 20's, since there are many 'tippable' people on trips (e.g.: curbside check-in some trips, guys loading baggage onto shuttles, shuttle drivers, taxis, people might help with bags at a hotel, daily boat trips).

Lesson Learned: The phone would put 001 in front of incoming US-based calls. Hitting call-back wouldn’t work but dialing without the two leading 0’s would work like normal. I didn’t realize that until later.

I had no idea; good to know!

Fortunately for us, Aldora is the only dive operator licensed to run boats off the east side.

I've wondered how often that exclusive capability pays off for their customers. Also wonder how the diving compares to the 'mainstream' west coast diving.

Richard.
 
Excellent review with practical, need-to-know insights and tips. Even a concise treatment runs long when you've got important points to cover.
...
I've wondered how often that exclusive capability pays off for their customers. Also wonder how the diving compares to the 'mainstream' west coast diving.

Richard.

Richard,

Thank you for the feedback. The two east-side dives we did were good. There wasn't the rock formations like on the west, more like large mounds of coral with sand between the mounds. Now I really wish I'd taken my camera. If the west side was a 10 (and I believe it was), then the east was somewhere between 7 and 8. Better than most dives I've been on, and way better than nothing.
 
Dear George,

Unfortunately the wind was too far east for your to get the best of the east side. Hanan Beach with its micro atolls are north of Mescalitos as is the Spanish sunken galleon. For me the north part of the east side is by far the best Cozumel has to offer but again just a few degrees of wind direction make that uncomfortable. Never-the-less, you got to dive while many didn't-- and doing Maricaibo and Columbia Deep on such an outing is a real treat.

Thanks for the posts, we work hard at it and really don't do much promotion, other than making happy divers.

Dave
 
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