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VooDooGasMan

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I did a bit of research after buying, well buy buy buy, I was at Idle cause could not get firmware on card to put on camera. While at an underwater photographers house he had a huge apple computer. after diving one day asked him to try, well a dozen dives later I gave to him and next day I tried it out.


I am happy with the housing it comes with, lights do not help much, it gives a color spot as I have it attached to spear gun. I have one ziptie holding it on, its on the bottom so It is in upside down mode on gopro.

Can only download pics on sony so I now have the gopro cineformstudio to see video. I got locked out of youtube months ago and just quit trying it.

The video does not run continues, I seen this on dumps vid on another thread, I changed r4 and still has delay. Not as annoying when volume is down.

The Visability is a easy 60' and the video is great, I will soon see how it is in bad vis.

I have to get use to shooting with it I missed two fish right off the get go, now these were small fish so target is harder, no excuse as I can shoot anything, I know if I'm going to get when I hit the trigger. I got the next 2 and had them on stringer, it was funny to have the ling come try to take them off the stringer.

There is no blur either, vid quality is great.

So I shall figure out all bugs before getting any additional stuff.

So what makes the vid run slow, My guess is I have a class 10 sd and gopro recommends a class 4 for reliability, what ever that means.

I always had a enclosed cooler for My sony. when I used camera on way back from dive site, the water had 4' seas so I was shooting vid on way home, as I was loading boat I noticed it fogged up from either sun or temperature change from cold water 50F to air of 60+f.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, Like I say This unit works great just like it is for video.
 
Now this is 60' down, I can see about a 100', the first are turning on as you see my mask. When slowly moving in the pics are actually good.

Then once close the pics are blurred, maybe I need to be more steady or at close range need to complete stop and on some of these I did, but maybe not what I thought.

I like this mode as it is easier to send pics then vid.


Any one have pic experience with go pro?

I have to make another post to put more pics to finish this post.
 

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Here is the finish of these and the ones that were blurred at close range.
 

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I am thinking of getting one since I saw a freediver's video. He said it was attached to his head. His audio was pretty good (able to hear noises underwater), but most posts I read said it had poor audio quality. I was thinking about getting one at REI a few weeks back with a discount, but then noticed they were selling them at Mako for less because a new model was coming out. Did you use the a flat lens for correction underwater? Do you have pics or vids of the Lingcod approaching your stringer of fish?

I have my Cannon camera mounted on my pneumatic using an REI mini tripod, some thin sheet rubber to prevent it from slipping, and a thick piece of Velcro. I do not get the spearpoint in my pics.
 
If you do not have the flat lens the video quality is terrible, especially for anything closer than about 3 feet. A flat lens (I use the Mako) is very inexpensive and makes a huge difference, particularly in the closer range. I've had mine to 185 pretty many timees with no issues.

Also you should use a rubber band to secure the latch, because the recoil, especially on a gun can cause the latch to flop open at depth and you an flood when you get near the surface.

As for fogging in cold water, there are dessicant packs you can use. I've not needed or used them. Another potential remedy is to gently blast the camera it self and the housing with the clean dry air of a scuba tank and then quickly sealing the housing. If you can fill the recesses of the camera and the small amount of air in the housing with cool dry air, then flogging should be less of a problem.

Also, for shooting video with the flat len, you want to shoot in the R-5 mode. There will be zero vignetting (with the mako lens anyway).

If you are a solo hunter and you add a camera, somehow (when there is evidence of bad shots) your accuracy goes to hell.
 
So dump that is the advantage of flat lense at close up range, I can not argue that then, the flat housing is what I thought I would buy, then use orig housing on helm of boat for surface shots.

And yes when I take a shot the housing shifts cause i do not have it tight on thumb tightener. so I shall put a rubber band on as well.
 
Oh hey dump how about the film running slow, I seen your BHB vid and mine does it as well.

The fog did not show until almost home on boat.
 
So dump that is the advantage of flat lense at close up range, I can not argue that then, the flat housing is what I thought I would buy, then use orig housing on helm of boat for surface shots.

And yes when I take a shot the housing shifts cause i do not have it tight on thumb tightener. so I shall put a rubber band on as well.

Depending on your mount and also the size of the gun and power, the recoil affect is an issue with the gun pivoting on the mount. What I have done is fabricate an L-shaped bracket that goes behind the housing and prevents the housing from rotating during the shot. I drill ahole in the bottom and secure the L-braket by running the tripod bottom bolt through the hole in the L-bracket. It is necessary to use a rubber band to secure the camera to the L-bracket because the recoil will cause the camera to rebound off the L-bracket. The rubber band can be doubled up to secure the latch and to keep the L-bracket and camera in contact with eachother.

I use the flat lense in air and water and it is fine for me.
 
Oh hey dump how about the film running slow, I seen your BHB vid and mine does it as well.

The fog did not show until almost home on boat.

Not sure about the film running slow? I don't see it?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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