H-1 Dive tools - Need help

[airsix]

How... Not sure how you're going to sort out all these opinions!

I vote for:

3" sheepfoot blade (still has a point, but it's a stronger point than most profiles)
Full tang (an 'integral' would allow for a hammer-pommel, but expensive to produce)
hard grippy composite scales (like bead-blased G10 or rough-finished carbon fibre)
1/2 serrated would be fine. Serrated H1 blades seem to hold up well from my reading.
Flat or convex grind (tougher than hollow ground. This is a UTILITY knife)

NO Tanto profile (most people can't sharpen them correctly - it is more challenging)
NO hidden tang
NO rubbery scales
NO long pointy tip

-Ben M.

 

[hdiaz]

>Bright colors? any preferences?

Your yellow works well. Agree with Surly on bright green or bright orange. There is a lot of research on color visiility under water. It should be easy to spot if you drop it.

>I'm getting the impression that only one blade length, 3" is preferred?

Yes. For a safety tool mostly used for cutting out of entanglements or occcasional prying. Divers who spear fish may need a longer blade with a pointy tip for administering a "coup de grace". Perhaps you could have a couple of knives in the line: a 3" "diving safety knife", and a "hunting" BFK (big friendly knife ;-)


>grip

FRN would work for me. I don't particularly think handle should be soft as most divers wear gloves. Again, this is a rarely used safety tool, not a work tool where you need to worry about continuous use for hours on end.

 

[Namchief]

My perfect dive knife would consist of blunt tip not tanto ( I dont need any extra holes in my equipment) soft grip but durable, Loud color choices for grip ( just incase you drop it as you know you will) and maybe a couple of colors for people that are color blind that dive. A sheath that you can put knife in easily both ways and stays there. 3- 3 1/2 inch blade but dont make the handle too small and a hole in handle for lanyard would be great.

 

[WVDiver]

I like knifes that aren't great big maybe a 3" or 4" blade. I like the line cutter near the point. One sharp edge the other designed to cut rope. A heavy solid end on the hilt for pounding like a hammer, with a rubber, comfortable, oversized grip shaped for each finger with a hole for a wrist laynard. A good sheath with a positive but easily released locking mechanism. Quick release straps versital enough to wear on the leg or arm and very quickly adjusted. And I want it to be cheap, I'd rather replace a cheap knife than beat myself up for loosing an expensive one. The biggest thing I guess is it's ability to keep an edge. I don't have time to sharpen a knife every couple dives. Hope all this helps.

http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/CategoryID_968/Context_965/Sort_Stock/DescSort_0/TBTK23.html

Here is a good start but it is very expensive and who wants to take a knife apart to clean it. Make it one piece so it can be rinsed with freshwater and be done. Also I am not sure of the blade length....looks like it may be a 5" to 6" blade.

 

[cldSCUBA]

I would like to see this knife in a full tang, with locking sheath, and leg straps. Maybe make in different colors like mentioned above (RED, ORANGE, GREEN) HI-VIZ.

To me, the Atlantic Salt Yellow FRN ~ C89YL is the perfect knife for my job as a Firefighter, and would love to be the owner of one..... . I would defiantly purchase a full tang Version.

Thank you for asking our opinions.

Corey
Moncks Corner Fire Department
SC, 29461

 

[Green_Manelishi]

How... Not sure how you're going to sort out all these opinions!

I vote for:

3" sheepfoot blade (still has a point, but it's a stronger point than most profiles)
Full tang (an 'integral' would allow for a hammer-pommel, but expensive to produce)
hard grippy composite scales (like bead-blased G10 or rough-finished carbon fibre)
1/2 serrated would be fine. Serrated H1 blades seem to hold up well from my reading.
Flat or convex grind (tougher than hollow ground. This is a UTILITY knife)

NO Tanto profile (most people can't sharpen them correctly - it is more challenging)
NO hidden tang
NO rubbery scales
NO long pointy tip

-Ben M.

And it's also designed to penetrate armor. Is it that dangerous underwater?

 

[CompuDude]

Hi Compudude & Evilbacon,

you had mentioned "tanto" blades. I'm assuming that you mean the "Americanized Tanto tip" as made popular by Bob Lum? (Real Tanto tips are thin and pointy, as the original purpose of the tanto was seppuku, [ honorable suicide ]).

May I ask why you would prefer this style of tip?

Sorry for the delay.

Yes, I mean the americanized version. And I only view it as a compromise between standard drop points with a real thin and sharp point, but lousy for prying, and the safer blunt points that make great prying knives but offer little to someone who needs a sharp point. I prefer a real point... I'll use something else if I want to pry open a can of paint such as an abalone iron. But if I had to find a compromise tip between totally blunt and pointy, I'd say the tanto tip seems like the best middle ground.

 

[evilbacon]

Hey Green Manelishi,

"friction" sheath. Need more input. Friction on the blade? molded to create a "snap fit" with the handle? Is there a sample on the market that you think works well that I can study?

Surly,

Bright colors? any preferences?

Hi Compudude & Evilbacon,

you had mentioned "tanto" blades. I'm assuming that you mean the "Americanized Tanto tip" as made popular by Bob Lum? (Real Tanto tips are thin and pointy, as the original purpose of the tanto was seppuku, [ honorable suicide ]).

May I ask why you would prefer this style of tip?

Hi Whitelightnin,

I agree with you on the importance of the sheath design. Especially the fastening systems. (knife to sheath and sheath to person). We've been spending a reat deal of time on this concept, because of it's importance.

We'd like to use the same "latch" system, if possible, for the dive knives as well as our 82nd Airborne piece.

Drawings are always nice, but, if you are planning on applying for patents, for our own protection, you may want to do a disclosure agreement before showing your idea to anyone.

Assuming we have removable scales, and assuming they will be injection molded (lower cost to the ELU (end line user);

FRN (fiberglass reinfoced nylon) is hard, we would add texture for "grip", Kraton is soft, can use texture as well, but "rubbery" Kraton material also has "grip".

Which is preferred?

I'm getting the impression that only one blade length, 3" is preferred?

thanx for all of the great input so far.

sal

The tanto tip to me seems alot more durable and practicle compared to drop points, spear tip, or the screw driver head. It gives you a way to pry something without risking the tip breaking on you, and it just looks better than any other tip, hands down.

Evil :bgmad:

 

[Green_Manelishi]

Hey Green Manelishi,

"friction" sheath. Need more input. Friction on the blade? molded to create a "snap fit" with the handle? Is there a sample on the market that you think works well that I can study?

Surly,

Bright colors? any preferences?

Hi Compudude & Evilbacon,

you had mentioned "tanto" blades. I'm assuming that you mean the "Americanized Tanto tip" as made popular by Bob Lum? (Real Tanto tips are thin and pointy, as the original purpose of the tanto was seppuku, [ honorable suicide ]).

May I ask why you would prefer this style of tip?

Hi Whitelightnin,

I agree with you on the importance of the sheath design. Especially the fastening systems. (knife to sheath and sheath to person). We've been spending a reat deal of time on this concept, because of it's importance.

We'd like to use the same "latch" system, if possible, for the dive knives as well as our 82nd Airborne piece.

Drawings are always nice, but, if you are planning on applying for patents, for our own protection, you may want to do a disclosure agreement before showing your idea to anyone.

Assuming we have removable scales, and assuming they will be injection molded (lower cost to the ELU (end line user);

FRN (fiberglass reinfoced nylon) is hard, we would add texture for "grip", Kraton is soft, can use texture as well, but "rubbery" Kraton material also has "grip".

Which is preferred?

I'm getting the impression that only one blade length, 3" is preferred?

thanx for all of the great input so far.

sal

Hi Sal,

Sorry for the delay.

The best "friction fit" that I can describe is that of the Buck Intrepid sheath. I'll post a link because I can't seem to embed the picture. The sheath "locks" onto the blade. The shock cord that you see has "tied" the sheath to the harness.
http://green-manelishi.info/main/diving/images/knife&sheath.jpg

Bright colors are nice but color fades as depth increases so it's not as useful as it might seem.

I like tanto blades as well but I have no problem stabbing anything even with a "dull" point. One single cutting edge is sufficient; especially if it's sporting a Spyderedge.

Finally, I agree the attachment of the sheath to the harness is of great importance. What good is it if the entire assembly comes off the harness when you access the knife?

 

[TSandM]

I own this knife, and I think it's just about perfect except for the fact that it is rusting where the blade meets the handle. The blade is approximately four inches long (don't have it at hand to measure). You can see it has a smooth cutting surface on one side and a serrated one on the other. The line cutter is up near the handle.

The sheath is a simple one -- heavy webbing folded over and sewn to make a channel. What gives it a positive lock is the two short pieces of webbing with Velcro on them that cross over the handle. The knife is easy to remove from the sheath, but I think it will be unlikely to fall out, as friction contains it pretty well and the Velcro straps add to the security.

Anyway, if it were made of a substance that didn't rust, and were not prohibitively expensive, this would be a very attractive knife to me. It was anyway -- I bought it!

I'm another person who would like EMT-type shears that didn't rust, including the rivet.